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BUSHscandi
04-24-2010, 02:36 PM
I have just had a possible brain wave, what if you smooth the shoulders on a scandi, i would of thought it would make the thicker steeper bevels to cut better.
Has anyone tried this, or doesnt it work?

GreyOne
04-24-2010, 02:56 PM
Well, might work, depends on what you try to cut. For meat and wood, I cannot see that there would be much room for improvement.
Perhaps for rope, cheese, veggies, etc. it might be worthwhile. Only way I know to judge is try it and see. :)

BUSHscandi
04-24-2010, 02:57 PM
i just thought it would cut down on drag, but it wouldnt be as good for battoning, not that that matters to me since in dont batton with scandi

Rubarb
04-24-2010, 04:10 PM
so it would be a scanvex or concandi then?

why dont you try it and report back with your findings on it?.

BUSHscandi
04-24-2010, 04:20 PM
so it would be a scanvex or concandi then?

why dont you try it and report back with your findings on it?.
no way am i doing it on a custom, maybe ill buy a mora and try it.

Rubarb
04-24-2010, 04:40 PM
so what are you waiting for?

Iz
04-24-2010, 06:16 PM
no way am i doing it on a custom, maybe ill buy a mora and try it.

I say save your time and buy a green river if you want a better slicer. Grk's aren't convex but they're good slicers.
Iz

upthecreek
04-24-2010, 06:36 PM
so it would be a scanvex or concandi then?

why dont you try it and report back with your findings on it?.

what he said..again :)

samthedog
04-24-2010, 06:53 PM
I knew a boner by trade who worked in a meat works for 15 years. He said that having a shoulder was very noticable after a couple hours with the knife and had convexed all his blades from new. I am guessing he probably noticed because he spent so much time with the knife but for us average shmoes I am not sure we could tell the difference. It would be interesting to try the two though.

Paul.

Geoffrey
04-24-2010, 07:15 PM
I did just this to a scandi knife. Actually took it to down to a convex edge. The knife works a treat cutting wood, think it is better than when it was a scandi, however it is no where near as good as a flat or true convex knife in cutting other materials, like potato, cheese, etc, the convex is nice, keeps all my blades convex, but this really still is more of a wood knife that a knife that is as good as a thinner convex or flat ground knife.

kajunman1
04-24-2010, 08:26 PM
IMO - 99% of hand sharpened knives become convex.

Iz
04-24-2010, 10:10 PM
IMO - 99% of hand sharpened knives become convex.

Amen, roger that, 10-4 and anything else that means I agree.
Well, at least the secondary becomes convexed.
Iz

Rilo
04-24-2010, 11:02 PM
So basically a Liten Bror-

http://knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/866666/

BUSHscandi
04-25-2010, 03:35 AM
i mean, leave the bevel the same, so you get the same carving ability, but simply grind down the shoulders

Iz
04-25-2010, 01:24 PM
i mean, leave the bevel the same, so you get the same carving ability, but simply grind down the shoulders

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. It'll be a flat grind with no shoulders. The liten is a true half/quarter height convex.
I say give it a try but I'd try it on something a little thicker than a mora. They're so thin I don't think you'll notice a whole lot of difference.
Iz

BUSHscandi
04-25-2010, 01:43 PM
Yeah, I hear what you're saying. It'll be a flat grind with no shoulders. The liten is a true half/quarter height convex.
I say give it a try but I'd try it on something a little thicker than a mora. They're so thin I don't think you'll notice a whole lot of difference.
Iz
good point, but i dont want to do it to a custom, anyone know of a cheap scandi fixed blade with 3mm or more thick blade?

Iz
04-25-2010, 05:00 PM
good point, but i dont want to do it to a custom, anyone know of a cheap scandi fixed blade with 3mm or more thick blade?

What about one of those condor things? The woodlore clone thing they have I mean.

Rubarb
04-25-2010, 05:12 PM
What about one of those condor things? The woodlore clone thing they have I mean.

Isnt Joezilla somerthing to do with Condor?, i could be and probably am wrong though

Rubarb
04-25-2010, 05:16 PM
James, have a look through these

http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Condor/c-1-92-130/

BUSHscandi
06-22-2010, 02:04 PM
James, have a look through these

http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Condor/c-1-92-130/ (http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Condor/c-1-92-130/)
i thought that they would be priced more like a mora tbh, quality control from what i heard is horrible.

FGYT
06-22-2010, 03:48 PM
you mean a Flandi Grind :D

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o109/FGYT/Sharps/DSP/DSP347.jpg

i did start by convexin the shoulder of a scandi as well as a distale taper but a thick flat grind does it better and easier

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o109/FGYT/Whittlerset/DSP1.jpg

ATB
Duncan

BUSHscandi
06-22-2010, 03:53 PM
you mean a Flandi Grind :D

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o109/FGYT/Sharps/DSP/DSP347.jpg

i did start by convexin the shoulder of a scandi as well as a distale taper but a thick flat grind does it better and easier

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o109/FGYT/Whittlerset/DSP1.jpg

ATB
Duncan
theres one thing that i dont like about your blades, its the thumb ramp, just looks unconfortable for my carving technique, which is basically just choking up on the knife, id love the small black handled one.

FGYT
06-22-2010, 04:05 PM
theres one thing that i dont like about your blades, its the thumb ramp, just looks unconfortable for my carving technique, which is basically just choking up on the knife, id love the small black handled one.

:D your alowed to not like bits I designed it and made it for me :p

ive done a few for people with out the ramp ;)
I dont find it a problem and do grip the tip for fine work .. what you cant see in photos is the weight and balance the balance point is always with in my hand eve n when gripping up to the last 1" of the blade even on the big one the ramp point sits with in the cup of my a palm and under no pressure etc plus the flandi cuts doen the pressure required to cut thro

ATB

Duncan