another winter is starting and I still like... wood, wool, canvas, leather ...
Bushclass Interm Lessons Completed(Req.=2/12, Elect.=1/7, Outings=0/10)
I've been in 6 or 7 Tandy's and a few other shops and all of them had knowledgeable staff who wanted a happy customer above a big sale. I'd encourage you to tell them what you want to do - take an example of photo if you have one - and let them guide you through the materials and equipment you'll need. And don't forget to check your local library. Leatherworker.net is an invaluable website to ask any kind of question you might have.
A sharp (!), rigid, thin-bladed knife for cutting out leather – a box cutter works fine. I use an Olfa L-2 box cutter with snap-off blades. (Exacto blades also work, but are a bit too flexible for me.)
A surface on which to cut the leather – a polyethylene kitchen cutting board works well and doesn’t dull your blade.
A stitching groover – to recess the stiches and prevent breakage of stitches through abrasion. (Looks better too.)
A marker for spacing stitch holes – a dinner fork works but an overstitch wheel is better and can also used after stitching to even up the stitches.
A sharp(!) diamond-shaped awl for making stich holes, You will likely need to sharpen it yourself after purchase – An electric drill also works, but the holes are too big and not well shaped.
Flexible glue – Eco-Flo Leather Weld (my favorite), Barge rubber cement, and others. A bunch of small clamps help.
Waxed thread (or sinew)
Two blunt-tipped, egg-eye, harness needles, size 4 or 5
Hole punch if you are using snaps or rivets – you will also need appropriately sized setters and anvils for these.
Strongly recommend The Art of Hand Sewing Leather by Al Stohlman for basic info.
Last edited by Miles Thundergass; 04-18-2012 at 02:57 PM.
The past may not repeat itself, but it sure does rhyme. Mark Twain