Long bow and 30" draw

[RM_Rambler]

As others have said, any quality bow will work for your draw length. I believe that all (or most) bow makers use the 28" mark as a way to standardize the measurements. Having a 31" draw I've only ever once run into a bow I couldn't full draw, and it was designed for short draws.

If you want to stick to the 50# mark at your draw distance, I'd look for a 46# or 48#. The stacking after the 28" mark will fill in the gap, but every bow is different so mileage may very.

[Bushknife]

where, and how do you anchor? For some reason people think that AP is some kind of genetically introduced certainty. AP should play the role of servant rather than master

I anchor with my right index finger in the corner of my mouth.

I would rather my equipment fit and feel good to me, than to try and fit into my equipment.

[Bushknife]

Hey bushknife, I just realized you're in NE Ohio. I'm living in Erie PA so if you're right handed and want to try out either my Tradtech Titan longbow or my home made lomgbow, just pm me and we can see about setting up a get together at an archery range. Both of the bows are around 45# @ 29.5 in and I have plenty of matched arrows.

Ken

I may take you up on that.

[statikpunk]

you should check the traditional archery forums, they all have classifieds and trade bows left and right, thats about the only way your gonna stick to your budget, your options are pretty limited in the 200 buck range even an off the shelf bear bow starts at closer to 300. if you can bump that up to 300 there is quite a few bow makers that can get one in at that range, check out "bama bows" they come highly recomended, and so does "mad dog bows" and both make custom bows in a 300 dollar price range. which is a good deal, heck even getting a bingham projects bow kit and doing it yourself will run you around 300.
if your dead set on 200, I would keep an eye out at pawn shops, I have often bought good old bear recurves for less than a hundred bucks, because they often sit around the shops for some time and you can wheel and deal with them. as a mater of fact I just picked up a good old bear kodiak magnum from my local pawn shop, and all I did was trade some junk from around the house for it.
and finally you could always try building your own bow, materials can be free and tools are minimal, it may not come out being a screamer but for sure you will enjoy it cheers

[nothinghead]

Rudder bow. Haven't used them, but I hear good things.

[Wyndigo]

have a look at GIBow.com their unfinished bows are reasonably priced and seem to be what you are looking for, I'll be getting one myself for hunting next year

[Garm]

I can add that the GIBows can do a 30 inch draw. I own one and regularly pull it to 30 inches.

[Wyndigo]

I can add that the GIBows can do a 30 inch draw. I own one and regularly pull it to 30 inches.

How do you like their bow?

[Garm]

I like it I got a 35# 71" self bow for use in a LARP. It shoots the over sized headed arrows we use pretty accurate and with some good distance. I still need to finish the fine sanding and stain and seal it. I would buy a couple more in heavier pull given a chance. I also got a long bow from Scarborough Faire from a vendor called Kee's Longbows. Same weight and a little longer than the GIBow, it shoots just as well and is already sealed. I got the longer bows to go with the image of a true long bowman. Kee's is very well priced, not sure how heavy a draw weight they do, but my hickory bow was under $70 with a Flemish string.

[JC1]

I would rather my equipment fit and feel good to me, than to try and fit into my equipment.

The only problem I see with that is you may still be trying to hold and anchor it like a compound, they are different.