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Thread: Reloading - Crimp question

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    Default Reloading - Crimp question

    Hey Guys,

    I have a Lee Carbide 4 Die Set for 38/357. It comes with a factory crimp die and a bullet seating die that makes a crimp.

    Do you guy use the bullet seating die for the crimp or do you like to use the factory crimp die for the crimp?
    Does it make a difference if you are reloading Hard Cast Bullets vs Jacketed Bullets?

    Thanks,

    Geoff

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    Scout gila_dog's Avatar
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    It will be interesting to hear what others say. I have an RCBS die set. I use the bullet seating die to crimp. Here's what I've learned. Crimp lightly into one of the grooves running around the bullet. The purpose of the crimp is to keep the bullets from being jerked out of the cases by the recoil of other cartridges being fired. So I think all rounds should be crimped, no matter what kind of bullet you are using. I think that if I crimp too hard it affects the accuracy and consistency of my ammo.

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    I'm old school,I use dies with the built in roll or taper crimp on all my handgun ammo,never had any issues doing so. However the pistol FCD is like any other tool on the bench it has it's place. When used properly it can help fix issues when used in the wrong application it can cause issues.

    Here is about 8 pages of threads on the subject,it should give you some idea of when and how to use it properly. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...d-Cast-Bullets

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    For magnum loads i used the crimp die. I don't use lee dies anymore since switching to dillon. Never have had an issue with either type though.

    Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2

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    i like using the lee 'factory crimp die'......just a personnel preference.

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    I use a Lee 3 die set for my 454 Casull and the seating die does the crimp. With this high recoil round you need a good crimp to keep the rounds from pulling out of the cases. This is very important in a revolver and a lever action with a tube magazine. In the revolver if the bullets pull out it can keep the cylinder from rotating. In a tube magazine it can cause the bullets to be pushed too far into the cases. For my 30-30 I use a separate Lee crimp die. The standalone Lee crimp dies will crimp bullets without a groove(cannelure). Bullet material doesn't make much difference you crimp for the same reason. For my 45 acp I don't crimp very much. I only crimp enough to hold the bullet. The straight wall cases in automatics use the case mouth to control depth of feed. If you crimp too much the round will feed too far in the barrel. Too little crimp and it won't seat in the chamber. I use a "dummy chamber tool that allows me to check the fit of the 45 autos.
    Last edited by aw738; 01-28-2013 at 06:56 AM.

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    I seat the bullets in the seating die without any crimp and run a second run with the taper crimp, easier on the brass, they hold longer.

    but!

    44 mag in the Carbine with full power charge I need a solid roll crimp, but not every jacketed bullet has a crimp-groove

    in a revolver the bullets work out of the brass ad clock the wheel, in a tubular magazine they tend to work into the case

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    I've never used the factory crimp die, always just used the seater die to crimp.

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    i also use Lee dies.

    So far, I've crimped all 38/357 loads. My 357 load is 180gr flatpoint over 12gr 2400 seems great with the crimp.

    I might play around with crimps on my 38 special load though.

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    I've always used the seating die to crimp. I have RCBS dies mainly. I use a pretty heavy roll crimp in revolver loads, and moderately heavy for lever rifles. I've never had a bullet pull or get pushed back in the case with either.

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