I've thought about making this post for a long time, but I have hesitated because I don't want to sound elitist or like a know-it-all. I've decided to go ahead and make it though in the spirit of trying to be a good teacher. A major part of teaching and learning is constructive criticism, and this is certainly meant to be constructive.----- I have noticed a number of posts with spoons and other carvings that had some really rough spots in the work, especially in tight curves. The reason for the roughness - "chatter marks" made by blades that are simply too wide for the carving being done. It's just plain physics - you can't turn a F-350 in the same tight radius you can turn a Honda Civic, and you can't make a wide blade cut a tiny radius either. It ends up being a scraper for part of the cut, therefore the chatter marks. Of course it helps to carve near the tip of the blade, but there are still clear limits. I would strongly suggest to any new carver that they try a Mora 120 or 106. I have read many times that the 120 is the most popular carving knife in the world, and there is a reason. The shape and size have been developed over centuries to do the best job on small carvings. Another advantage is that the R62 core of the 120 will hold an edge a lot longer than the softer Woodlores or plain carbon Moras. In the photos, look at the width of the large blades in comparison with the size of the small corners necessary to make the carvings - then make the same comparison with the Moras DESIGNED FOR CARVING. Also look at the designs carved into the handles of the spoons - all done with the tip of a 120 and simply impossible with the larger blades. So -- for about $15. any beginning carver could and should purchase a proper carving tool. It will greatly reduce frustration and will immediately lead to much cleaner and pleasurable carving. (Please don't ban me - really trying to help.) Jim



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