Flintlocks!!!

[Mutno]

The down side of a long gun, whether flint or cap, is that the stock is pinned to the barrel. The barrel actually supports the stock. This makes it more time consuming to clean as it takes many patches to do the job. A patent breach, think Hawken short stock, is much easier as you pull the wedge, unhook the barrel, and put the breach end in a sink of hot soapy water. Then just run the patch back and forth until the water comes clean through the nipple or touch hole.

I built both a .32 cal squirrel gun and a chief's grade trade gun in the eighties, both with Siler flint locks but don't shoot them nearly as much as I did my first which was a Thompson Hawken kit.

[mischief]

Growin' up the flintlock users put a "mules ear" which I suspect is same as a calf's knee over the lock to keep it dry .
Be warned, once you go down the buck skinner road, you will find it an addictive hobby. One that builds confidence in your ability to feed yourself and loaf in the bush as long as you wish.

There are many rendezvous that you can attend to explore more of this if it please you.

Keep your powder dry and your top knot safe.

Thad

I have gone down the flintlock road and I will never go back.Look into installing a White Lightnin SS Vent Liner.

Keep your powder dry and your dobber up

[stormpriest]

some weapons bragged of a "weather proof" lock, the 1803 Harpers Ferry was one of those, .54 cal., half stocked for quick break down and cleaning and all the metal has been browned, rather than blued.

These can be had pre fabbed (AKA not kits but ready to fire) at dixie gun works. www.dixiegunworks.com

[Todd Bradshaw]

I've seen frizzen covers before, and if you're sitting in the rain, waiting for something edible to walk by I suspect it wouldn't be hard to build a little "lock poncho" that covers the whole hammer, pan, frizzen area and ties underneath (Velcro would be handy, but the noise it makes when you unhook it might be a serious problem). I've also observed that the black powder substitutes seem to be more prone to picking up moisture than the real deal, so I tend to avoid them (confession: I also like that sulpher smell of real BP).

This may seem kind of silly, but when teaching my wife to shoot a flintlock without flinching, I told her this:
"It's pretty much a matter of mind-set and anticipating what is going to happen. When you shoot the percussion rifle or cartridge rifle, your mind is thinking that you'll pull the trigger and it will go 'boom'.That's what you are anticipating. With the flintlock, I want you to think and anticipate that you'll pull the trigger and the rifle will go 'kaboom' instead of just 'boom'. If you prepare your brain for that slight hitch in the delivery, then when the boom does come, it won't be a surprise."

In some ways, shooting the big Sharps is similar, even though it's a cartridge gun since that big hammer has to swing so far after you pull the trigger (plus, you know your shoulder is going to get pounded pretty good when it does go off). Adjusting your brain to the lock time of the gun seems to be the key, and for some folks thinking kaboom will help do it.

Also check out "Track Of The Wolf" for BP guns and supplies. Good folks and some nice rifles and high-end custom kits (more involvd than the mass production kits, but higher quality).

http://www.trackofthewolf.com

[aw738]

I don't have any expriance with flintlock or caplock black powder but I do have an inline. I would like to have a Civil War era Sprinfield replica. Don't let anyone tell you that an inline is modern. It was invented the same year that Daniel Boone was born.

[tree-ratsniper]

Thad, to be honest-thats my fear. Going down this road, never to return!!! But, I think I would be OK with that .
I will definitely give dixie gun works a look-as I am just dipping my toes in, and fear I will be jumping in to the deep end, clothes and all, before too long. I am OK with that too though!!!

To everyone offering advice, thank you. I have been around firearms since I was young-shooting with my dad, 13 years in the Army as an Infantryman, serving on several different crew served platforms, earning my armorers certificate-but, I have zero experience with the older shooting arts. And, I am truly looking forward to this journey!

Pretty soon flintlocks will consume your thoughts! I grew up shooting bolt guns & never would have imagined becoming a "traditional muzzle-loader." Then a buddy turned me to the "holy black" side...

[Bartnmax]

Blackpower shooting involves quite a few 'nuances' which need to be properly learned.
Things such as which ball to use, best patch material, learning to 'read' your patches when developing loads, etc.
For that reason I believe that the newbie is usually better off starting with a caplock rather than a flintlock.
The caplock is just that touch easier to master than is the flintlock.
It's also a touch better to hunt with for the newbie as it is more weatherproof.

Once you've been at it for a while, & you're developing a good understanding of the 'art' that is BP shooting, I would then say start thinking about a flintlock arm.
You'll have a better idea of what's involved & which FL best suits your shooting/hunting needs.
You'll also be better equipt to think about maybe having a custom FL 'front stuffer' made - then you'll really appreciate the art of BP shooting from a whole new level.
A poor quality flintlock can put you off BP shooting for good as it can be a niughtmare just to get on target, but a fine custom FL that shoots well is a real pleasure to shoot & own, & will give you a whole new respect for our forefathers & how they lived & survived with BP arms.

Good luck mate.

[pacondor]

You're done now. Its got ya. I hunted my first 2 years ('92-93) with a Thompson Hawken kit rifle my Grandfather built for me. I got back into it about 3 years ago and killed my first blackpowder deer this January. We hunt rain, sleet, snow. Light flurries/drizzle I'll just throw my handkerchief over the lock. Rain/snow I've got a piece of inner tube cut to length and sliced open. Drape it over the lock and gun voila! You can also put a little bore butter along your barrel to keep water from running down into the pan. A dab of butter over the barrel and you're waterproof. As far as powder 7f in the pan goes off like a rifle but draws any moisture from the air. I use 4f pan/ 2f barrel and it seems to work pretty good for me. Also, try to use the least amount of flash pan powder possible. Find how much powder is required to touch off the gun.(powder and no ball). Use just a bit more than the required minimum The more powder you use in the pan the longer the delay. For lead I use round balls I pour myself. My gun is 1:48 so it doesn't shoot the maxi balls very well. As for the addiction, I really think the sulphur smell has something to do with it. lol

[ron d]

I have a .62 caliber (20 gauge) smooth bore fusee (trade gun) and .50 pistol(rifled) that a friend of mine from NH. built. That you are welcome to shoot.

ron d

[hunter63]

I have a .62 caliber (20 gauge) smooth bore fusee (trade gun) and .50 pistol(rifled) that a friend of mine from NH. built. That you are welcome to shoot.

ron d

Curious
What dia ball are you using for the trade gun?......