Anorak pattern

Discussion in 'Self-made Gear' started by edispilf27, Jan 1, 2010.

  1. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    For those who have expressed an interest in transforming surplus military blankets into a functional (and possibly stylish!!???) winter anorak, I've put together a materials list and pattern dimensions.

    Trying to answer all of the questions beforehand is almost pointless. So, where possible, notations and comments will be added during the process. There are a few things we should realize first:
    1. Do not rush! give yourself a reasonable goal time without the hassles of deadlines. As with the tortoise and the hare, a slow steady pace will always produce better results.
    2. Create your pattern first and then do a 'mock-up' using a cheap thin material taped together (duct tape ). cheap materials can include plastic kitchen bags, burlap, old blankets. etc. WHY, because popping seams kills your time to completion and really isn't that fun :(
    3. Measure twice cut once! As any carpenter will tell you, check your measurements as many times as you feel comfortable with.
    4. All seam allowances are 5/8" - 16mm ... more on how to change sizes with seam allowances later.

    Without further ado...

    First, what the final product will look like (er, somewhat; depending on your choice of materials and stitching styles):

    [​IMG]

    ... What you are going to need (add, subtract, swap out materials as you see fit... this is your artistry and it wouldn't be prudent if a bunch of copies were circulating ):
    - (1) Military surplus blanket
    - (3) yds of waterproof breathable laminate (like goretex, entrant, schoeller)
    - (80) yds. heavy duty polyester outdoor thread
    - (40) yds "iron on" seam tape (makes stitching alot easier and keeps stretchable fabrics from bunching with non-stretchable fabrics)
    OPTIONS:
    - (3) sq. ft. 2-3oz. leather
    - (1) spool 65 lb. braided fishing line (spectra.. firewire, power pro, spiderline)
    - wooden beads, antler tips for button toggles
    - leather lacing (latigo is best)
    - jacquard ribbon trim (comes in thousands of styles, and can be used in conjunction with topstitching to create a very unique contrasting embroidered look)

    Many of these products can be found online through ebay and other merchants. More info can be found at this post: Where to get the goods

    ....aaaaand for the thread that started it all (you maight get a better understanding of why i'm doing this): Water/wind proof wool anorak ... not to mention more detailed photos of exactly how things will look

    Alrighty then.. here come the patterns with a few numbers:

    [​IMG]
    these patterns need to be layed on in such a way that each produces a complete front and complete back (i.e.- the centerlines need to be placed on your materials fold.. more on this later)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If you're having trouble viewing the dimensions on the smaller pictures, please visit my flickr page at http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmi2004/ for larger images.

    Okay. Now we've got these cool looking patterns without the one-size-fits-all moniker. So how do we resize based on each persons individual frame? These pattern dims are for a person 5'8" to 6' in height. With just a few crops, and adds here and there, we can create a fit that will work with ANY averaged sized person (little people and giants are the only exceptions).

    The length of the yoke determines the length of the arms from cuff to cuff. From the bottom of the armpit to the hem determines the length. The width of the chest and back panels determines the upper body volume. For us, having a shoulder yoke offers a lot more versatility with regards to resizing our pattern. regardless of your shoulder width, the yoke takes up all the slack by only changing the angle of the upper sleeve! Try this with a typical sleeve!

    So, the first thing we are going to find out is how to change the length of the sleeves.
    Grab yourself a partner, and have them measure from your wrist on your right hand to your wrist on your left hand. Voila! This plus a couple inches will be the entire length of your yoke. Now, if you are subtracting from sample length shown here, Then you must also subtract from the front and back sleeve panels (#'s 4 and 5). If adding, the same applies.. add the same amount to both panels. To illustrate:

    [​IMG]

    You'll want to only extend/shorten from the CUFF side of the pattern (Notation 'B'). If you attempt to change the radius on the armpit area, you are changing a lot of the variables when you actually get down to sewing the arms to the yoke and the main body panels. If you want to change the circumference of the sleeve, you MUST radius from the armpit area and slowly create an arc that increases or decreases the circumference (Note 'A', as you can hopefully see, starts out flush with the original and slowly changes the curve as we move towards the cuff).
    As mentioned before, practice with a scrap piece of material or even a plastic bag (much faster).

    Lengthening the main body panels is fairly self-explanatory as well. WORK TOWARDS THE HEM at the waist.

    Note: Many people like to have the back longer than the front, this can be accomplished by adding more to the rear body panel... on the hem cut. This pattern is designed to sit a little further back on the shoulders which gives the feeling that the back is longer than the front. Try it first and then add or remove material to satisfaction.

    ... and now for a way to layout your patterns on your blanket so that we can get some contrast...:

    [​IMG]

    The blanket above is a "standard" italian military issue blanket from who-knows-what-year (60's?). The dimensions range from 60"x78" to 64"x86". Given the stripes start at about 8" in from the whipstitched edge (and are equal on both sides of the blanket), we can lay out our patterns so that they will create a stripe which continues evenly from the sleeves to the front and back body panels.
    like sew...

    [​IMG]

    there are numerous alternatives that can send the stripes vertical, angled, higher/lower etc... play around with your patterns for awhile (heck, sleep on it ).

    Now, when it actually comes down to beginning the stitching, we are going to start with sewing on the front sleeves (4) to the Front body panel (2). With the outside of the panels facing away from you and start stitching the sleeves to the main body panel. Remember, we have a 5/8" seam to play with... try to keep this consistent throughout your project. I suggest stating the sewing from the top of the shoulders and working towards the armpit area.

    As you progress, keep the materials lined up properly so that you don't get the wool bunching up against your liner material (if you are choosing to do a liner that is).

    So, we will have something which looks something like this to begin with:

    [​IMG]

    After you've completed your stitches, we're are going to turn our piece over and topstitch the seam to strengthen it and make it more flat against the body. This will increase the comfort and decrease the bulk of all our seams.. let's start topstitching...

    [​IMG]

    we're going to fold the main body panel stitch allowance (5/8") over on top of the stitch allowance on the front sleeve. Just to make sure we're on the same page, the stitches will look like illustration 'B'

    [​IMG]

    It's your option whether or not you choose to do a second topstitch on the other side of the seam. It's more of a skill and time choice and adds only looks, not function.

    NEXT, The yoke and back sleeves
     
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  2. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    part II

    Note for topstitching: It's not necessary to add the second topstitch (the stitch that only sinks into itself). It's more or less a decorative addition and serves no other purpose.

    Alrighty then, lets get down to prepping the yoke. According to our pattern, we'll have two pieces that make up the yoke. If you thought ahead prior to cutting these pieces out, you may have found that the yoke could have been cut in a single piece (minus the seam allowance on both pieces). Now we'll have a sewn/single piece shoulder yoke that looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    Remember to do your topstitching if you sewing halves together!

    Now that we've got our yoke ready, it's time to sew the back sleeves (5) to the back body panel (6) in the same manner we stitched the front sleeves to the front body panel:

    [​IMG]

    This is just a little illustrative repetition. You will be using the back sleeve patterns and the back body panel.

    Now that the sleeves are stitched on (and topstiched!) lets add the yoke:

    [​IMG]

    From the illustration, you will notice that you are going to have to line up everything so that we don't end up with the yoke longer on one sleeve than the other. Sooooo.... we are going to take a few quick measurements to get everything lined up. measure from the top of the back panel shoulders and divide that by two to get your center for the back panel. Measure from the insides of the collar hem and divide by 2 to get your center for the yoke. Line up your centers. Don't pay attention to how the cuff ends line up. There may be a little variance, and that can be fixed once we begin stitching all the sleeve seams together..

    Begin stitching from the point where the yoke lines up with the center of the back panel (where the nape of the neck would be). It is important that we start from here because our material will stretch and move from this point. If we were to start from one cuff and work towards another, we would end up with a twisted yoke. So, we are going to work from the center and stitch towards one cuff.. and then comoe back to the center and work towards the other cuff.

    The same applies to topstitching this seam as well.

    WooHoo! we should now have a complete front body panel with sleeves, and a back body panel with sleeves and yoke. It's time to get these pieces together now...

    We're going to have to get everything lined up and start from our "center" in the same fashion we attached our yoke to the back panel...

    [​IMG]

    Remember to fold the seam and do your topstitch. The shoulder yoke pattern style is stronger than any other pattern style, and also prevents seams from water seepage due to the seam locations!

    NEXT... stitching it all together, collar, and hems

    Now that we have everything sewn up on the topside, it's time to think about if we are going to add a front "roo" pocket or a chest pocket. If you decide to add a pocket, unlike shown here, you'll have to cut the pocket out of the remaining material and figure out where to place it. Remember you'll have to fold in the edges of the pocket and iron them a little to make it easier to keep in place while sewing. If you need to keep it aligned, use masking tape to on the main body panel to keep it square.

    alrighty then.. with or without pocket, it's time to start sewing the body panels and the arms together.

    Starting from the armpit area, and inside out, sew down the body panel edges on both sides... then sew down the arms. It is possible to topstich the body panel sides to within 1 inch of the armpit areas. Not necessary, but it looks good and adds strength.

    We should now have an "almost complete" piece.

    Try it on! see how the fit is.

    If it's too loose on the sides or the arms, you can stitch in closer to the fabric to make the circumference smaller.

    now let's get our collar ready. You can use 1 or 2 identical pieces to do the collar. If you are using one, you'll be trimming the collar with leather or a bias edge too match the front button area. If you are using 2 pieces, you'll have to sew them together and then turn it inside out like:

    [​IMG]

    whoops! Ignore the sleeve pattern in the background.

    Just sew around the edge (5/8"!) and turn it inside out. Now the fun part, we are going to be sewing through some pretty thick layers of wool. match the center of the collar with the center of the neckline on the yoke. Does the collar look like it's going to match up all the way around? If so, you are good to go and can start sewing, from center to the front of the collar.

    take your time doing this one... lots of needles will pop if you go too fast!

    Woohoo... almost there! now it's time to add all of our trim pieces. this is going to take the longest time because we are not only handstitching, but also sewing through VERY thick fabric.

    We are going to need to cut our leather in strips first. cut them as long as you can, and about 1.5 - 2" wide. make sure that the length is long enough to overlap about .5" for the cuffs (don't cut them to fit yet though!)

    before i get ahead of myself here, there are a few other options for the cuffs. If your cuffs are large enough (arms stretched, above head, etc.), we can fold the cuffs inward and sew them with the sewing machine. If we choose to trim them with leather or some other edge trim, cut them to length.... aaaaand then sew on the trim.

    [​IMG]

    Make sure your trim is balanced on the inside and out so that you don't miss any leather when sewing. The above example has the trim sewn about 7/8" in from the cuff edge. as along as it's more than 3/8" from the cuff edge, you are good to go.

    Stitch all the way around the cuff and overlap the end .5-.75 inch over the beginning leather trim. Mark the piece and cut it before stitching up that far...

    you should have a complete cuff.. ditto on the other side

    Everyone is going to have a different take on how to complete the neckline and collar. this is up to you. i prefer toggles because they can be fixed in the field, are easy to use with one hand, and they look good. If you decide to use toggles, you can purchase pre-made onesw from a craft store or make them your self. Just grab a 2$ dowel rod from the hardware store, cut the lengths you want (~1.5"), drill a hole in the center, and finish them however you want...

    The part people see the most will be the neckline. this is where your individuality and creativity show.

    After you've sewn one of these up you'll probably be saying "i'll never do that again". But the limitless possibilities for customization will have you taking another stab at it in the near future. Jacquard and Grosgrain trims can be bought online in many colors, styles and patterns including:
    - celtic knots
    - greek key
    - southwestern motifs
    - geometric shapes
    google "celtic ribbon trim" or "jacquard ribbon trim"

    Thank you for all the ideas and help making this project for the cold holidays.

    Enjoi!
     
    LokoLobo likes this.
  3. Skab

    Skab Staff Staff Member Super Moderator Vendor Bushclass I Bushclass Instructor

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    Thanks a million! I will have my seamstress(my wife) get right on it!
     
  4. Mesquite

    Mesquite Tracker

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    Superb tutorial Edispilf. I'm definitely going to have a go at this one as I've been wanting to make a shirt for myself a good while but not found a pattern I like yet
     
  5. bluedog

    bluedog Scout

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    Brilliant write-up. Thanks. Another for the duit list.
     
  6. Howie

    Howie Guide Bushclass III

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    Excellent!
     
  7. Trekon86

    Trekon86 Guest

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    Very nice work and pattern!
    I will share this with a friend of mine, I am sure she will enjoy it:)
    PMZ
     
  8. sarge1967

    sarge1967 Guide

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    WOW Thanks! I will see if I can make one.
     
  9. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    you are all very welcome :)

    with a little TLC, you'll have a very nice anorak that your childrens children will envy as you pass it through generations.

    May the rest of your year be prosperous and filled with creativity.
     
  10. Mathan Moloch

    Mathan Moloch Scout

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    This is a great tutorial, I need to work on sewing as I dont know how, but I will figure it out to make this. If you did a wool pants tutorial, I dont know if I could contain myself.:D:D
     
  11. Thunder 9

    Thunder 9 Guide

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    I second the wool pants motion. An army blanket transformed into thermal underwear bottoms would be the ticket. Thanks for the pattern and most excellent set of directions. Fantastic job!
     
  12. Iz

    Iz MEMBER of a BANNED Vendor Bushclass I Bushclass Instructor

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    If I sat down and studied that for a week I guarantee I still couldn't do it.:( It would look like a monkey sewed it up.:eek:
    Great job, man. Thanks for putting all the work into the pattern, too.
    Iz
     
  13. Trekon86

    Trekon86 Guest

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    Hahahaha Bindle you and me both:p
    PMZ
     
  14. Mook

    Mook Scout

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    That is simply outstanding! I'm really, really impressed...both with your finished product and with the effort you put in to sharing this information.

    Thanks!
     
  15. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    ah, so a spanking on the topside won't do so. well, well, well... maybe a pair of lower ends will be in the cue for creation.

    ya'll are quite the bunch. methinks a tutorial on pantalones is may be in order next. hmmm

    will see. at the moment nothing compares to the west german slacks. at 35$ delivered it's gonna be hard to beat that. we could make them thicker, more pockets, and maybe some extra stitching to reinforce the high wear areas. but yikes! can you touch this price... http://www.armynavysales.com/p-564-german-wool-pants.aspx

    i give up as far as the low end goes ;)
     
  16. moxonone

    moxonone Scout

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    You rock! thanks
     
  17. Mesquite

    Mesquite Tracker

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    Edi... looking at your explaination as to how go about resizing the pattern I'm not sure on how to enlarge for the more generous proportioned belly :eek:

    Is it just a case of expanding width wise on the front and back patterns or is there anything I need to take into account?

    Any chance of doing a walk through for that part as well?
     
  18. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    Mesquite... Good question.

    The size on these is very generously cut. If you measure around your girth and it fits within the 50" circumference of the body panels you should be OK.

    maybe this illustration will help:

    [​IMG]

    for other resizing options (and those who enjoi the dare), the old adage stands. what you do to one piece must be changed on all other pieces that fit to that piece. If you wish to change the width of the arms at the shoulders (say to make them smaller) then you will have to decreasethe width of the front and back arm panels, the length of the body panels arm cutouts, and change the width of the yoke where it meets the arms only.

    If you have any other questions about sizing etc. please feel free to ask.

    Thanks again, and don't let the relative complexity of this pattern fool you. Take your time and it'll work out with great results ;)
     
  19. penvisser

    penvisser Banned Member Banned

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    now that's what I call a tutorial! Thanks!

    atb,

    Jan
     
  20. Sgt. Mac

    Sgt. Mac Elder Staff Member Administrator Supporter Bushclass I Bushclass II Bushclass Instructor

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    Holy Shit, What a great tutorial with a ton of info.
     
  21. TeeDee

    TeeDee Scout

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    Top , Top Tutorial , Have something nice for yourself in 2010!!
     
  22. smokechoker19

    smokechoker19 Scout

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    great pattern, will get the wife right on it!!!!!!!

    Smoke
     
  23. Okbushcraft

    Okbushcraft Guide

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  24. The Professor

    The Professor Tracker

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    Great tutorial, thanks!
     
  25. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    Thanks all! There's a revision coming up that will include pockets and a few "upgrades" to make it even better... There are 3 prototypes out in the field being tested by an ice fisherman, a homeless vet, and tele ski instructor. This should be interesting but insiteful into what can help this to become the ultimate outdoor rig.

    I'm really stoked on this and am working on getting a few of the elder seamstresses into doing something they like and getting paid for it!
     
  26. Stormrider

    Stormrider Tracker

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    That's top notch work OP! And awesome of you to include a how-to!
     
  27. pik

    pik Scout

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    Does the seam tape aid in topstitching, or is it just for the Entrant/waterproofness?
     
  28. nickosnow

    nickosnow Guide

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    great tutorial thanks for posting it
     
  29. skw

    skw Scout

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    Awesome! Thanks
     
  30. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    Hello all... sorry for the late responses to your questions.

    pik - The seam tape helps align the lining to the wool prior to stitching.. its easier to sew that way. After playing around with a couple of protos though, i've found that the waterproof lining is only marginally better than just the wool itself. A little lanolin and some wax mixed in with the wash makes it almost perfect without having to go through the hassle of adding a secondary lining.

    Thanks for all the input and kind responses. still working on this design to make it the best possible outdoor clothing article it can be.

    working long hours lately, working on another patented idea, and all the other side projects has knockede this back from the top spot... fret ye not though my fellow crafters... we'll get this rolling as soon as an approved seamstress/taylor with adequate machinery can aid in the manufacture process.
     
  31. kevinkinney

    kevinkinney Current on Tetanus. Vendor Supporter

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    Killer tutorial!

    I know a folk school in Grand Marais that would hire you in a heartbeat!

    Kevin
     
  32. canoeguy

    canoeguy Guest

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    Thanks for this tutorial! I had read it a few weeks ago before I joined and got the idea to use the same blanket type for my capote.

    I am going to try to attempt your design next from your posted patterns.
     
  33. shaggystu

    shaggystu Tracker

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    sorry to resurrect an old thread but i thought i'd post up some photo's of a smock i made following(ish) this tutorial. this version is only really a mock up to refine the patern to get the fit right but it has been worn on a fair few occasions and i think it's great.

    thanks a lot for the inspiration.

    my smock:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    thanks for looking,

    stuart
     
  34. Aven

    Aven Banned Member Banned

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    Stuart, that looks grand. What fabric did you use for it? Since its your mock up, what are your planning on to use for your final version?
     
  35. shaggystu

    shaggystu Tracker

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    thanks aven.

    to be perfectly honest i have no idea what the fabric is, let me explain, i get my fabric from a little remnants shop and the guy who runs the place often doesn't know himself what the fabris are that he's selling (he usually only has a few yards of each fabric, i think he mainly buys bankrupt stock from clearance sales) i'd say that it's mixed fibre. it sheds sparks pretty well, keeps most of the wind out, and will cope with light showers, good enough to try out a design.

    i'm planning on making a few final versions, the one i'm working on at the moment is going to be a lightweight affair out of showerproofed polycotton. after that i'm going to make a heavier weight one from waxed cotton and a blanket one (a la edispilf's original). ultimately i'd like to make one from ventile but a mixture of the fabric cost and the fact that i don't think my sewing machine would cope with ventile means that i'll be waiting a little while before i do that.

    cheers

    stuart
     
  36. Sgt. Mac

    Sgt. Mac Elder Staff Member Administrator Supporter Bushclass I Bushclass II Bushclass Instructor

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    Realy nice job Buddy
     
  37. shaggystu

    shaggystu Tracker

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    thanks for that

    stuart
     
  38. pedro

    pedro Scout

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    Looks great! Well done indeed.:dblthumb:
     
  39. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    That looks really great! i know it's been a long time since posting to this... but am still testing the original. So far there are a few things that need to be addressed:
    1. the leather trim used around the neck and cuffs could be changed to a stronger leather like pigskin/kangaroo. pigskin being the cheapest @ a 2.5-3.0 oz. range should prove more durable and just as easy to sew. the 2 oz. suede at present is estimated to last about 4 years before it becomes ragged.. . 4 years of hard wear that is... so far there are only a few wear marks on the cuffs.

    2. this thing does need pockets! a center pocket with dims of maybe 4.5"H x 7.5"W would make all the difference when wandering without a bag on belt/shoulder. a sleeve pocket for a little tinder & firesteel would be worth the extra effort as well.

    3. while a hood would be beneficial, a removable hood would be even more valuable. something in the neighborhood of steel snaps (with the backsides hidden within collar to keep cold metal away from skin) mating to those on the hood would be pretty handy... maybe even leather buttons.

    other than those things, this thing is rock solid.

    feel free to modify, integrate, or change this pattern in any way to make it better/more suited to your purpose... heck, sell the thing if you can :9:

    Thanks again for all the comments and critique. hopefully this winter a few seamstresses can jump in on the action and get some orders rolling out.
     
  40. shaggystu

    shaggystu Tracker

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    thanks a lot for all your positive comments guys. especially glad that you approve of what i've done with your design edi.

    i agree entirely with your comments about hoods/pockets. my finished version is going to have a few pockets, probably a "kangaroo" type handwarmer and maybe a map pocket too. i won't be putting sleeve pockets on because i don't really like them (just personal taste i guess, no real practical objection). as for making the hood detachable, well that's what i intend to do on my "mid-layer" woollen version (much like your original), not entirely made my mind up how i'll go about making it detachable yet, maybe buttons on the inside of the hood with button holes in the collar, but as i say not sure yet.

    thanks again for all your positive remarks.

    stuart
     
  41. Clo-z-nuff

    Clo-z-nuff Tracker

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    I'm looking at making one of these as well. I kinda did this weekend...with an old bedsheet. I wanted to test the pattern and also practice my sewing skills.

    I have a couple of questions. Why does the original have a front sleeve and a back sleeve? Couldn't these be combined to eliminate a seam?

    Also, how do you sew the second and third stitch lines on the sleeves after the initial stitch is made? Do you just "skrunch" the material up as it goes thru the sewing machine?

    Otherwise, the fit was perfect for me...I'm 5'-11" and 185lbs.
     
  42. Clo-z-nuff

    Clo-z-nuff Tracker

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    Thanks for the patterns!!!

    Here's mine I just finished...it fits pretty darn good.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I thought it would be nice to save the insignia and label...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  43. Scott Allen

    Scott Allen Guide

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    Nice work!

    Scott
     
  44. Ron

    Ron Guide

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    What a great thread!
    Am I glad it has been resurrected!
     
  45. jstalljon

    jstalljon Woods Wanderer Supporter Bushclass I

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    Great idea...that turned out awesome! Well done.
     
  46. Exy

    Exy Supporter Supporter

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    My god man.. That is skill. I love the German blanket you used.. Those are impossible to find now. Regardless, that bad boy is perfect! Serious talent.
     
  47. edispilf27

    edispilf27 Tracker

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    I really enjoy the mods people have been making. The cordlocks at the hem, and the brass eyelets are a super nice touch. The cuff idea is very cool as well.
    Would like to talk to a moderator about about doing a massive tutorial, w/loads of pix, that has a liner a a few other mods that've proven worthy of passing on.
    Excellent work everyone!
    Am going to try to answer some questions...
    . The third seam on the underside of the arms is technically not needed, but it does do several things. It makes it possible to topstich both arm panels to the yoke that runs through to the cuff area... and subsequently makes the 'look' flow better. It also help to keep equal dimensions from the torso down to the cuffs. Essentially, this gives better freedom of movement from shoulders to elbows. The wool blankets do have a nice degree of stretch which could possibly keep this step on the back burner.
    . To do topstitching, you can lay both of the seams flat and sew both sides.. this gives the triple stitch look. If you are using good strong thread, this makes the jacket easier to sew, and also takes a less powerful machine to accomplish. A topstiched seam whereyou fold both underlying fabric margins the same way is technically stronger, but more difficult for the machine. If you have the time, patience, strong machine to do it this way, it will look just as good, use less thread, and provide a stronger stitch.
    . I've changed my mind about hoods, i really like having them when they are needed, but'don't when they are not. On the last one, i added a couple of snaps around the collar and made it removeable. In the least, u can pop the side snaps and swivel the hood 180 so it lays flat on your back
    . If you do decide to line your jacket, cut it about 1/4" shorter on every seam except for the collar area, cuffs, and lower hem. This will make it fit 'within' the wool shell better.
    . The placket on the front neckline has the most character, butif you have a machine that can sew through some serious layers, i highly recommend doing a regular shirtplacket. Cut your neck slit as deep as you want, then fold up a few strips of'wool on both sides so they overlap(as if looking at a regular button up shirt), and you can use anything you want to keep it closed. It will b warmer and trade off with bulkiness.
    Thanks guys. Have to check out on trying to do an updated tut.
     
  48. T-Bone

    T-Bone Tracker

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    I've been airing out my blanket for a couple of weeks. I think this weekend, I will be sewing one up.

    The anorak in the original post looks fantastic. Very well made. If you didn't know German, you would think it was a store-bought, sports-related sweater.
     
  49. pinklily

    pinklily Tinder Gatherer

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    Hello all. I am wondering if any of you would know someone who would be willing to make an anorak for me? It's a Christmas presents for a friend. He has been wanting one for a long time. I am willing to pay for everything. I have tried to do it myself but I'm terrible with a sewing machine. Thanks so much for you're time.
     
  50. casula999

    casula999 Tracker

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    Nice man! priceless! Now just need to find good material...or maybe buckskin?!
     

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