Folding Saws

Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by ljcsov, Feb 24, 2013.

  1. ljcsov

    ljcsov Scout

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    Maybe it is just me, but I can't seem to use these things correctly. I've tried a few now and wondered if I am doing something wrong or it is just time to upgrade to a different model.

    First, I began with a no-name orange folding saw with a rubber grip handle. It somewhat resembles the widely available $10 Fiskars saw with the chunky handle and lockback lever on the back. After giving it a fair shake, I finally retired it since it would not really cut much of anything without a massive struggle.

    Now, I moved onward to a Fiskars brand saw pictured below . I think it is one that is a little less common, but it wields the "Power Tooth" line of saw blade that exhibits aggressive teeth that cut on the pull only. It appeared to be a great improvement over my previous saw simply because a slightly functioning saw always beats a non-functioning piece of plastic junk. Even despite my efforts to get a feel for this thing, I still struggle plenty when sawing through all kinds of wood. It sticks constantly, which seems to be the point of failure for the blade. If it sticks in the wood, then the battle with the saw begins.

    61J1XRMc-jL._SL1500_.jpg

    Is it me? Or, is it the saw? It seems like everyone on youtube cruises through wood like it is some kind of joke. As for me, I feel like I'd be better off taking my Wetterlings LHA to the log and cross cutting. I am unsure if I am pushing too hard on the blade, causing it to jam in the wood. Or, maybe my saw choice is what is lacking. Thanks for the help...

    P.S. - This post serves as semi-justification for purchasing a Bahco Laplander, but I want to make sure that it will solve my problem.
     
  2. Paul Foreman

    Paul Foreman Supporter Supporter

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    i've got experience with one folding saw: the corona from lowes, which is curved, and cuts on the pull. i've put mine through some wicked tough seasoned hardwood. as long as i do not force things, it goes through wood like termites on meth. perhaps a curved saw might help. the corona costs about $20.
     
  3. penetrator

    penetrator Scout

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    I've been using a Laplander for a couple of years now. It does cut very well. In the beginning, it did have problems with sticking. Upon close inspection, I could see that the outside of the teeth had a burr. Like, if you ran your fingernail down the blade, it would get caught on the very tip of the tooth. So I took some 1000 grit sandpaper and very lightly sanded the teeth, blade flat against the sandpaper. That eliminated the sticking issue.

    If you really want to rule out the saw, you should get a Silky. From what I've heard and read, these are the highest quality and unmatched in cutting smoothness. In fact, I ordered a Silky Bigboy from cellis here on the forum. Hasn't arrived yet, but his prices are great and his service and responsiveness to questions is top notch. Check out his website, he has all sizes: https://www.cellison.net/

    BTW, I also have a Wetterlings LHA and it is a great combo with a Laplander.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2013
  4. Med Gecko

    Med Gecko Scout

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    I like my Bahco Laplander saw a gear deal. I liked it well enough to buy a second one for the truck toolbox.
     
  5. DBX

    DBX Guide

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    Been using a Coghlens (sp) for nearly 30 years.
    One trick I learned, don't put much pressure on the saw when you're cutting.

    Sent from...
     
  6. stronghorse

    stronghorse Guide

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    +1 on the Corona 10-in Folding Pruning Saw from Lowes. I love mine. The curved blade digs in while my other straight blade saw just cuts across the top so to speak. I also love the 10" blade vice other 7" or 8" folding saws.
    038313072650.jpg
     
  7. Bax 40

    Bax 40 Supporter Supporter

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    In the post you said it sticks when pushing it, all that I have seen are pull cuts and have a Silky Gomboy that cuts better than any I have seen so far.

    Larry
     
  8. Nature Boy

    Nature Boy Supporter Supporter Bushclass I

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    I use both a Bahco and a Home Depot silky knockoff. Love them both but the Home Depot saw is smaller and seems (at least to me) to cut faster and smoother. Plus its more compact in my kit.
     
  9. stronghorse

    stronghorse Guide

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    You may know this but I figured some food for thought here, make sure that you are not pressing down on the wood as you are cutting it. Pressing down on the wood will it to squeeze your blade and make it bind. Allow the weight of the wood to begin to open up the cut each cut.
    Hope this helps.
     
  10. rolandsilvajr

    rolandsilvajr Banned Member Banned

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    +2 and +3 on the corona. Bigger to carry than the bahco. I have two Laplanders and two Gerber saws but the corona while bigger to carry really sails through wood and is only $19.99. It it is non essential wood cutting during temperate climate bachos fine. If its cold or critical wood cutting then the corona or my northwest woodsman bucksaw. Corona + axe = warmth and shelter. Good times. Bahco for me although small enough to carry in a cargo pocket or back pocket is fine for smaller stuff. Compared to the corona on the same wood it took allot more calories and time. But either way dirt time = fun time.
     
  11. ljcsov

    ljcsov Scout

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    Thanks guys. I appreciate all the information offered so far. I am going to be careful next time to not push down on the saw and to just let it work on its own.
     
  12. Couchsachraga

    Couchsachraga Tracker

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    In general these cut more on the pull than push strokes, unlike carpenter saws you may be used to. As you noted you don't want to "bear down" on them, just let the saw do the work. If the teeth really are that aggressive bearing down on them will make sawing very, very difficult.

    I have a two Corona's I use as loaners for trail clearing.

    I personally only use Silky's these days - GREAT saws and very, very sharp.

    The Katanaboy is amazing... but pricey.
     
  13. wanderlustman

    wanderlustman Tracker

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    Bob Saw

    While not quite as compact as a Laplander in your bag a Bob ''Quick'' Destrude saw is what I bought once I decided to stop @ZZZZin around and got a real man saw (15ozs.)! Technically, it folds ; O)
     
  14. dRobinson

    dRobinson Supporter Supporter

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    What teeth size blade do you have? I have been looking at these, trying to determine the best suited teeth size. Leaning towards fine (geared towards hard wood).
     
  15. cellis

    cellis Post less. Do more. Supporter Bushclass II

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    I answer this once a week or more so thought I'd share. For the teeth size on a saw, the larger the teeth are the faster they will cut and they will gum up less on green or wet wood. The finer they are, they will be easier to start the cut and make a cleaner finer but slower cut. In my opinion at least for most camp work you want the biggest teeth possible. For felling and most pruning and other tree works as well. Around the house for general work probably closer to regular sized teeth. For carpentry fine teeth, for finishing carpentry extra fine teeth. Something like that.
     
  16. VinoNoir

    VinoNoir Guide

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    Can not go wrong with this saw!!
     
  17. PaulyDanyl

    PaulyDanyl Tracker

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    Everyone else said what I would about letting the saw do the work and only cutting on the appropriate saw direction. Like another poster, I've had one of the dirt cheap coghlan's sierra saws, and while it feels like it's going to fall apart in my hand, it goes through most wood easily.

    I had trouble over bearing at first myself, and the piece of advice that helped me was to try cutting something with no downward pressure at all. Just focus on smoothly moving the saw back and forth across your work piece.
     
  18. SimplyMichael

    SimplyMichael Banned Member Banned

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    All these saws now use Japanese style teeth that cut on the pull stroke.

    This is true on all saws but especially japanese style teeth you need to cut in a a straight consistent path.

    Also, support only one end and let the other be subject to gravity. Otherwise as you cut, it will.pinch instead of open. Sometimes back out and start the cut again so as to open.the cut. Also, what most of the wood you are cutting is branxhes and as you cut them you release internal stresses and that that can cause binding..

    Lastly, try cutting in a ways, then tilt the saw up and cut a while and then tilt it the other way. This reduces the length of cut and can increase speed and help with binding.
     
  19. Bushcraftgeek

    Bushcraftgeek Guide

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    I had the same issues but then I realized in ways it was me more than the saw. I was trying to sorta force it to cut thinking at times pressure would help but it doesn't. Sorta holding it in your hand loosely and doing it slow you can really get the feel for how the saw itself cuts.

    The style of teeth and such ofcourse help but how you hold the saw can make a big difference. If your cutting branches down cut it from below too the fibers are cut much smoother from below the branch rather than from top side of it.
     
  20. Keyser Söze

    Keyser Söze Usual Suspecto Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    you only need to pull with that saw -pull cuts- when you push forward don't apply tension , just pull cut ...slow
     
  21. shonuffisthemaster

    shonuffisthemaster Scout

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    I always end up bending the blades of the folding saws eventually, thats why i like the folding bucksaws like the sawvivor.
     
  22. Martes Pennanti

    Martes Pennanti Scout

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    Had 2 Silky Big Boy's. Loved them, gave one to my boss.
     
  23. WKS1977

    WKS1977 Tracker

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    I use a Bahco Laplander and love it...If I remember correctly the description said it cuts on push and pull strokes.
     
  24. rdec

    rdec Guide

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    The narrow, sharply pointed Japanese type saw takes some getting used to. It cuts on the pull stroke so it can be, and is, much lighter than the European saw that cuts on the push. First - don't force the cut, let the saw do the work with very light downward pressure on the pull, and no pressure at all on the push a complete reversal from the European saw. Once you get the hang of it the sequence becomes quite automatic.

    Forcing the cut or reversing the pressure will cause binding. chattering and quite possibly, a broken tooth.
     
  25. Landofrath

    Landofrath Tracker

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    I tried a few folding ones and was never happy. I have been using the Sawvivor now for two years and much happier with it.
    I also like that I can modify standard store blades to fit. And it cuts on both strokes...
     
  26. DomC

    DomC Retired Old Scrub Stomper Supporter

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    I had a Coleman's camp saw and it served me well (my son owns it now). i graduated to the Corona RS 7265 Razor Tooth Folding Saw. I am super happy with it overall. It's razor sharp as the name suggests, lightweight and it fits my pack. I picked it up at Lowes last year.

    DomC :) ;)
     

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