I got my dream canoe!

Discussion in 'Paddling' started by Gulo gulo, Mar 23, 2013.

  1. Gulo gulo

    Gulo gulo Scout

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    Walked into REI today to buy something cheap with my small dividend (don't buy much there, overpriced). Well, right in the front entryway, what do I see but the canoe I've been wanting for forever; for about 60% off! A royalex old town Penobscot 16'. It was a retired rental they were offing, lotsa wear but it looks like its still seaworthy. Can't wait to take it float hunting! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364089511.003616.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364089526.275329.jpg
     
  2. SquirrelCommander

    SquirrelCommander Tracker

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  3. redrooster1700

    redrooster1700 Scout

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    good for you
     
  4. Lone Watie

    Lone Watie Tracker

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    good trade (so to speak).
     
  5. Gulo gulo

    Gulo gulo Scout

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    I have a few questions I'd like y'all to help me with. I have a couple dents or dings, whatever you want to call em. They go down pretty deep into the hull, down past the green and further. Does this need to be fixed and how? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364089756.416960.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364089783.937899.jpg

    Also, the skidplates(?) seem kinda furry, is that going to need refinishing and how would do it!
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364089925.325813.jpg
    Thanks for the help y'all!
     
  6. Kiaiu

    Kiaiu Scout

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    i sold a kayak to guide in nh and he said that the only thing that will fix polyeurethane is the stuff they use to fix skis
     
  7. WoodsJack

    WoodsJack Guide

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    Score! It's a beaut.

    Good on ya'.
     
  8. rdec

    rdec Guide

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    Old Town sells a repair kit with the right materials. Royalex is a 5 layer thermoplastic. The center is floation foam, the second layer is a blue plastic, very strong but very susceptible to UV damage, the outer layers are a plastic resistant to UV deterioration but not as strong as the second layer. If you show blue it MUST be covered. In the field you can temporarily use duct tape until you do permanent repair. Keep it out of the sun until you can get those scrapes repaired.
     
  9. injun51

    injun51 Supporter Supporter

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    Use some "Glove-it or Coat-it". Its the same thing river guides use on the bottoms of drift boats to keep from tearing them up.

    Very tough stuff. Easy to use too.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  10. SampleName

    SampleName Scout

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    Congrats on the good find! I hope you're able to get those dents and scratches sorted out.
     
  11. Todd Bradshaw

    Todd Bradshaw Banned Member Banned

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    The dark green outer skin is vinyl. The structural layers below it are ABS plastic (gray,or tan, blue, sometimes black, it varies and doesn't matter). Gouges are filled with special epoxy resins (and if needed, fiberglass cloth - you don't need any cloth for those small gouges). The epoxy is a flexible type that you aren't going to find at a hardware store. You can get a repair kit from Old Town (incredibly overpriced) or buy G-Flex epoxy from Gougeon Brothers or the big marine discount houses, like West Marine.
    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50220

    These resins bond well and can take some hull flex without popping loose, as normal epoxy would.

    For a gouge like the one shown, you clean it out well, rough it up a bit with sandpaper if you can get in there, and then find a propane torch. You light the torch and then quickly flick the flame over the repair spot a few times. You are not trying to heat or melt the plastic, so don't linger there. What the torch does is to polarize the plastic molecules or some such scientific mumbo-jumbo, which actually does improve the bond of the epoxy. Then you mix the resin and hardener and slightly over-fill the hole. Let it harden a few days and sand the resin down flush and smooth. Try to avoid sanding on the vinyl skin next to the hole as there is no reason to tear it up. Old Town used to sell cans of spray paint formulated to stick to their plastic canoes and match the factory colors. I can't tell whether they still do, you would have to call them to see. That would be the best thing to cover the repairs or any other spots where the green vinyl has been worn through and plastic under-layers are showing. It will block the UV rays. Krylon makes a line of spray paints made to stick to plastic. I don't know what colors they have, but it would also be worth checking out.

    The fuzzy Kevlar skid plates are demonstrating how Kevlar works. It is so abrasion resistant that it just fuzzes when sanded or abraded. That fuzz is really hard to get rid of. If you want to smooth it out some, about all you can do is coat it with epoxy and try to sand the epoxy smooth. Future abrasion from use will just fuzz it up again though, so it may be better to just live with it. In any case, it's far better than not having it and wearing the ends down all the way to the foam core.
     
  12. Gulo gulo

    Gulo gulo Scout

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    Thanks a lot, this is really helpful! Right now ive got it on the north side of my house wrapped up in canvas tarps. I'm assuming my underlayer is the tan stuff I'm seeing on the stern side where the green is all worn off. I'll get the stuff for fixing it. And I'll just live with the fuzzy Kevlar now that I know it's not gonna hurt anything. I'm praying for breakup now, as soon as my local lake is clear I'm goin for a test drive!
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  13. Gruxxx

    Gruxxx Scout Bushclass I

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    Congrats on the canoe. It looks like you got some sound advise here and a call to Old Town is in order. Good luck on the repairs and have fun!
     
  14. FreeMe

    FreeMe Guide

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    Todd's answer, of course, is right on. A couple things I have seen...

    Some guys are now filling large voids in the foam core with expanding polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) before covering with glass cloth and G-Flex. I haven't tried it, 'cause I don't have anything with a large gouge - but it looks like a good fix.

    Kevlar can't be sanded - it just fuzzes from abrasion But it can be cut with a blade. I have successfully thinned (edit: smoothed) kevlar skid plates just like those with a sharp farrier's file. I suspect you could take an extremely sharp blade and shave that fuzz off. I have read that the fuzz can also be burned off with a torch, but again, I haven't tried it.


    Good score on that P'scot! One of my favorite royalex hulls.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2013
  15. BEARS BUDDY

    BEARS BUDDY Scout

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    Either use the official repair kit or the G-flex from West. I am more familiar with the G-flex.
     

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