Stock refinishing with boiled linseed oil

Discussion in 'Monthly Projects' started by CaliforniaCanuck, Sep 12, 2016.

  1. CaliforniaCanuck

    CaliforniaCanuck Guide

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    Today was my first time using boiled linseed oil and I'm very pleased with how easy and forgiving it is.

    I stripped the factory finish off a new shotgun, this was a bit nerve racking because I could potentially ruin a new gun, but in order to properly fit a recoil pad I had to try it.

    I'm really happy and relieved with how well it looks after just one coat. I'll save the pics for when it's completely finished. I plan to do 4 more coats, one per day till Thursday, and reassemble it Friday night.

    The instructions said to cut the boiled linseed oil with thinner so it penetrates. I used denatured alcohol and it worked really well.

    For you guys that have used boiled linseed oil, did you do anything special between coats? Should I sand or just apply the next coat?

    Pics of your finished stocks would be great!
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  2. Rosh

    Rosh Compulsive Maker Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I use boiled linseed on just about any wooden tool/implement I own that doesn't touch my food or mouth. I usually just put it on pretty thick and massage it in with rubber gloves. Then after letting it sit for 10-15 mins, I wipe the excess off and buff it with shop towels before the excess dries and congeals on the surface. Its a pain in the butt to get off of you forget to wipe the excess off between coats. I have never thinned it before, but I'm sure that works pretty well. I usually do a coat a day for about a week. Then maybe a coat every week or 2 for the next couple weeks. Then periodically after that. I have rubbed it in with some 1500 grit sandpaper before, but I can't tell if it makes a huge difference. [​IMG]
    My "bush tactical" single shot 12ga is the only wooden stock gun I own, but I treated it with BLO.
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  3. Prophet68

    Prophet68 Tracker

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    I use LinSpeed myself. It's BLO plus a drying additive, it helps speed the dry time.
    I apply a coat by dipping with my fingers, then rub it in with the palm of the hand until it gets really warm. IMO, the added heat helps it penetrate.
    Let dry overnight. Then "buff" it off with a burlap piece, or use coarse denim. This removes the build-up. Repeat step one.
    I prefer between 10 and 15 coats. Gives good wood a glow you wouldn't believe.
    Doing this from my phone, pics are in my laptop, sorry.....
    Hope this helps, Prophet.
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  4. CaliforniaCanuck

    CaliforniaCanuck Guide

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    I want that deep rich matte finish that I see on some expensive rifles and shotguns.

    I guess I'm doing my your method, +10 coats!

    Thanks for the tips!
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  5. Eric Singleton

    Eric Singleton Tracker

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    I mix pine tar, blo, and mineral spirits.

    [​IMG]

    Ratio depends on how dark you want it. This picture is after one coat.

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
  6. tomme boy

    tomme boy Scout

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  7. tomme boy

    tomme boy Scout

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    Forgot to add that the fuming is about the only way to get white oak to look like it has a stained finish.
  8. NWPrimate

    NWPrimate Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    You may already be aware of this, but I figured I'd post a reminder just in case...

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  9. Eric Singleton

    Eric Singleton Tracker

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    That's why I air dry my rags before throwing them away. Thanks for the reminder @ NWPrimate.

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
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  10. Gunut

    Gunut Tracker

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    The "boiled linseed oil" sold in big box stores is not real BLO (kleen strip). It is fake, not boiled and is toxic. It has plasticizers, hardeners, heavy metals and a bunch of other crap in it. I would not use it on anything I want to handle especially anything that will touch food or a rifle stock that will be touching my face and mouth area when I'm dialed in for a shot. I use real BLO sometimes called stand oil. I use it for knife, tool handles and gun stocks. It cost more but a little goes a long way.
  11. werewolf won

    werewolf won TANSTAAFL Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I stopped messing with most finishes a while ago and I use Birchwood Casey's Tru-oil on almost everything now. Dry's rock hard in 24 hours and work I did 20 years ago has not cracked or yellowed. Works for me.
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  12. Gunut

    Gunut Tracker

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    Yes, Tru-oil is good stuff!
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