Stock refinishing with boiled linseed oil

Discussion in 'Monthly Projects' started by CaliforniaCanuck, Sep 12, 2016.

  1. CaliforniaCanuck

    CaliforniaCanuck Guide

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    Today was my first time using boiled linseed oil and I'm very pleased with how easy and forgiving it is.

    I stripped the factory finish off a new shotgun, this was a bit nerve racking because I could potentially ruin a new gun, but in order to properly fit a recoil pad I had to try it.

    I'm really happy and relieved with how well it looks after just one coat. I'll save the pics for when it's completely finished. I plan to do 4 more coats, one per day till Thursday, and reassemble it Friday night.

    The instructions said to cut the boiled linseed oil with thinner so it penetrates. I used denatured alcohol and it worked really well.

    For you guys that have used boiled linseed oil, did you do anything special between coats? Should I sand or just apply the next coat?

    Pics of your finished stocks would be great!
     
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  2. Rosh

    Rosh Compulsive Maker Bushcraft Friend

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    I use boiled linseed on just about any wooden tool/implement I own that doesn't touch my food or mouth. I usually just put it on pretty thick and massage it in with rubber gloves. Then after letting it sit for 10-15 mins, I wipe the excess off and buff it with shop towels before the excess dries and congeals on the surface. Its a pain in the butt to get off of you forget to wipe the excess off between coats. I have never thinned it before, but I'm sure that works pretty well. I usually do a coat a day for about a week. Then maybe a coat every week or 2 for the next couple weeks. Then periodically after that. I have rubbed it in with some 1500 grit sandpaper before, but I can't tell if it makes a huge difference. [​IMG]
    My "bush tactical" single shot 12ga is the only wooden stock gun I own, but I treated it with BLO.
     
  3. Prophet68

    Prophet68 Tracker

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    I use LinSpeed myself. It's BLO plus a drying additive, it helps speed the dry time.
    I apply a coat by dipping with my fingers, then rub it in with the palm of the hand until it gets really warm. IMO, the added heat helps it penetrate.
    Let dry overnight. Then "buff" it off with a burlap piece, or use coarse denim. This removes the build-up. Repeat step one.
    I prefer between 10 and 15 coats. Gives good wood a glow you wouldn't believe.
    Doing this from my phone, pics are in my laptop, sorry.....
    Hope this helps, Prophet.
     
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  4. CaliforniaCanuck

    CaliforniaCanuck Guide

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    I want that deep rich matte finish that I see on some expensive rifles and shotguns.

    I guess I'm doing my your method, +10 coats!

    Thanks for the tips!
     
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  5. Eric Singleton

    Eric Singleton Tracker

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    I mix pine tar, blo, and mineral spirits.

    [​IMG]

    Ratio depends on how dark you want it. This picture is after one coat.

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
     
  6. tomme boy

    tomme boy Scout

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  7. tomme boy

    tomme boy Scout

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    Forgot to add that the fuming is about the only way to get white oak to look like it has a stained finish.
     
  8. NWPrimate

    NWPrimate Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    You may already be aware of this, but I figured I'd post a reminder just in case...

     
  9. Eric Singleton

    Eric Singleton Tracker

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    That's why I air dry my rags before throwing them away. Thanks for the reminder @ NWPrimate.

    Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
     
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  10. Gunut

    Gunut Tracker

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    The "boiled linseed oil" sold in big box stores is not real BLO (kleen strip). It is fake, not boiled and is toxic. It has plasticizers, hardeners, heavy metals and a bunch of other crap in it. I would not use it on anything I want to handle especially anything that will touch food or a rifle stock that will be touching my face and mouth area when I'm dialed in for a shot. I use real BLO sometimes called stand oil. I use it for knife, tool handles and gun stocks. It cost more but a little goes a long way.
     
  11. werewolf won

    werewolf won TANSTAAFL Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I stopped messing with most finishes a while ago and I use Birchwood Casey's Tru-oil on almost everything now. Dry's rock hard in 24 hours and work I did 20 years ago has not cracked or yellowed. Works for me.
     
  12. Gunut

    Gunut Tracker

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    Yes, Tru-oil is good stuff!
     
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  13. Daveboone

    Daveboone Tracker

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    I love the look and smell of boiled linseed....I once read that the old timers followed this routine to ensure a maintained and optimal wood care: rub in a coat every day for a week, every week for a month, then every month for a year, followd by a yearly touch up. the stock will keep soaking it in.
     
  14. saxonaxe

    saxonaxe Tracker

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    I asked a local cabinet maker for some Boiled Linseed Oil and he gave me some in a glass bottle. I suspect it's closer to the Stand Oil Gunut refers to although it smells like BLO. I was experimenting with using a piece of Ivy (Hedera) for a knife handle, not an ideal material I know as it is so fibrous but I liked the natural twist to it.
    I treated it by first diluting the oil with White Spirit and applying a few coats. It's been quite successful considering the knife gets used a great deal, the oil seems to have bound the Ivy fibres nicely together and the knife handle has got darker with use and subsequent coats of oil.

    [​IMG]

    After fitting and applying the first coats of oil.

    [​IMG]

    And now after about a year of use and minor reshaping of the handle. I didn't answer your question about sanding between coats, sorry. I sanded between the first three or four coats, but the Ivy was fibrous and needed it to obtain a smooth finish. I think even the harder woods benefit from sanding between the first few coats, certainly after the first diluted coats, using finer grades of abrasive as you go.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2017
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  15. RDog

    RDog Scout

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    I have used BLO to good results a few times, also have seen rags spontaneously ignite while drying them out...probably around 10 times (soaked rags, even spread out flat can catch fire, the right way to dispose of them is to place them into a container of water) Add the fire dangers to the general health hazards (because of the additives) and I much prefer real Tung oil.
     
  16. MartyJ

    MartyJ Supporter Supporter

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    I use a product called "Tried and True". Pricey but a little goes a long way. It is pure linseed oil and bees wax. Claims to be non toxic. Like mentioned above, very thin coats warmed in, let it polyermize and another coat. The old cabinet makers saying apples: Once a day for a month, one a month for a year, once every year. A rich hard finish if done right.
     

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