So I recently bought a Wetterlings Forester's Fine Axe. (this will be my first review on this forum so be gentle folks) A little history on this axe I had seen it on an Equip 2 Endure interview with Wetterlings CEO Julia Kalthoff at Shot Show 2012 Shot Show 2012, SA Wetterlings CEO Julia Kalthoff Interview, Equip 2 Endure [video=youtube;AStEzMUQWMU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AStEzMUQWMU[/video] I had been regularly visiting the Wetterlings site trying to find out what this axe was called so I could buy one. I really loved the design and wanted to get one. But it never showed up. I figured she misspoke in the interview and the axe was not out last year but was coming out this year. So waited and checked regularly. While doing a thread about the Wetterlings Les Stroud team up to make an axe, see the Bushman axe thread, I discovered the axe from the Equip 2 Endure video was out though not listed on the Wetterlings site, and was being called the Universal Woodsmans Axe at garrettwade.com and Forester's Fine Axe at harryepstein.com I took a couple weeks to think it over and finally bought the Forester's Fine Axe from Harry Epstein's. It was $102 with shipping vs the $134.60 pre shipping at Garret Wade's. A week wait and it arrived. YAY! I have spent yesterday and today testing it out, and have to say I really like it. (please excuse low quality photos I only have a camera phone) Here it is, the Forester's Fine axe Yesterday I took it to task on this fallen branch delimbing it. It cut threw the small limbs like butter. While the axe came sharp it was not shaving sharp but still performed well right out of the box. A closer look at the head. I really love this carpenter's axe style head, great for choking up and doing finer tasks. The axe is light. The 1-1/4 lb head has a 3 1/8th" blade and 6" long head. The hammer poll is rounded but of a good size to still drive wedges or tent stakes at 1 1/4" tall and 7/8ths" wide. The rounding on the hammer poll is mellow but could use a little finishing up, and smoothing out to make it good for game processing, and skinning. A fairly easy task. Out of the box though it is not too bad. The grain on the handle is nice and straight. (not sure how well you will see in this poor picture, sorry for the bad camera) The handle came unfinished and I gave it a quick covering in linseed oil. The alignment of the edge with the handle is near perfect. The handle is 23 1/4" Harry Epstein's site said 23 1/2, close enough, and Garret Wade's site says 24". A little variation is expected. Also the head does not sit down all the way to the handle's shoulder. As you can see in the pictures of the close look at the head and the hammer poll. At some point I might rehaft the axe just due to this reason. I will be on the look out of a good handle in the 24" range to fit this head, but for now I am not in a hurry to replace a handle that is good enough for now. There is a metal wedge in the top, which I would have preferred not having but it was sort of expected in a production axe. (also you can see the gap issue, I will mention more about later, from the top here. So now for some of the issues I have noted with this axe. First though minor is the sheath, it sucks. It is a poorly done magnetic retention sheath. It has two magnets embedded in it to hold onto the blade. The stitching is already coming apart only on day two of having it. Now I was expecting this poor sheath from the stock photos, so it did not surprise me, and I had planned on making a replacement soon. The bigger issue is a gap in the head, where the forging process obviously folded the steel around an eye mandrel and joined the pieces to make the blade. This joint has left a small gap in the blade where it connects to the eye. The biggest worry about this for me is it is a potential place for rust to collect. As you can see the head came with some surface rust already, though I am not worried about that as it is common enough in mail order axe heads, and will wear off with use and a bit of wire brushing. The gap though does have potential to build up over the years and create a weak point. Honestly this one issue has me considering returning the axe for a new one without this issue. Though I would make sure to send pictures ahead of time to make sure their other axes don't have the same issue. I am debating this possible return due to this, what do you folks think? ( I will keep this review updated over this issue if I decide to return it, or if it develops problems due to it) *edit to add, I have had two comments now mentioning this gap issue is a nonissue. That it is fairly commonly seen in Wetterlings axes, and one comment mentions his Wetterlings has it and has had no issue due to this gap in 4 yrs of use. So I am now pretty confident that the gap is nothing to worry about. Thanks for the confirmation on this guys. *edit to add, Julia Kalthoff joined BushcraftUSA it seems to post a comment here on this review. I have added this comment here so people wont have to go all the way through the comments to find it. Thank you Julia for taking the time to set the record straight on the gap found on this axe. I really appreciate your input and love my axe even more knowing you took the time to tell us more about the forging process. I am very happy with the Forester's Fine axe, with the exception of the gap issue. In my couple days of testing it, it cuts, chops, splits, does fine work, all very well. It is light and small enough to make a perfect pack axe while not giving up the ability to do the work expected of it. The 23 1/4" handle is enough to do two handed swings but short enough to still choke up and use it for finer work. Over all I think I am in love with this new axe and would recommend the Forester's Fine axe, or Universal Woodsmans axe to anyone who wants a bushcraft axe.