And it begins.....

Discussion in 'Archery' started by Blackhawk45hunter, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Blackhawk45hunter

    Blackhawk45hunter Pronounced sim-bee-duh Bushclass II

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    I’ve been listening to the stickbow chronicles, and the Kifaru podcast a lot lately and decided to start figuring out what arrow setup will shoot perfectly with my longbow. Using the 3 Rivers Archery arrow spine calculator I found that I can get really close with the arrows I already have, with a different point weight.

    It just so happens I have some Carbon Express Heritage 150 arrows cut to 29.325 already and it’s just a matter of getting some heavier (way heavier) points.

    The calculator showed that switching to 250 grain points, I’ll be within roughly 2lbs of my bows dynamic spine rating, and from there I can play around with brace height to get them flying perfect.




    I’ve got 250 grain field points on the way, and I’ve already figured out how to get some zwickey broadheads that heavy too.
    Down the rabbit hole I go........



    I never would have thought primitive, traditional archery could get so technical. It’s crazy!
     
  2. Eric Westbrook

    Eric Westbrook Supporter Supporter

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    It can sound techy at times, just remember, all your trying to do is to get the arrow to flex the right amount to clear the shelf of the bow.

    The spine calc can get you pretty close, provided you are feeding it accurate info...inaccurate info will just send you farther out in the weeds...
     
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  3. mjh

    mjh Supporter Supporter

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    Sounds like you have a plan. I like to use 50grn brass inserts and then play with field points to fine tune a bit. I typically run 200grn points on most of my set ups.
     
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  4. wingnuts

    wingnuts Hunter/Gatherer Provider/Protector Supporter

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    Wow! Sounds interesting to me! I am actually putting together a shooting block and breaking out a bunch of old recurves. At present I’m shooting aluminum 2117s (I think) with 125 grn heads from a 41# bow. Where might I access this resource?
    Be well
     
  5. rmorgan736

    rmorgan736 Scout

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    easton 2117 30 inches long 125 grain points and i can ue them in both recurve and compound bows and they work great in both.....
     
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  6. Blackhawk45hunter

    Blackhawk45hunter Pronounced sim-bee-duh Bushclass II

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  7. 45Smashemflat

    45Smashemflat Scout

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    Ok, just getting back in to it myself. I have a 45# Grizzly I'm trying to get back into shape. I received a care package from 3 Rivers with my new string, hair rest, and a tuning bare shaft arrow kit. I'm planning to try carbons, so that is the kit I got. I am wondering about cutting them, assuming I need to. Any tips? Dremel with cut off wheel?

    Any resources on the proper steps to tuning? I figure doing something methodical is best.
     
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  8. gdpolk

    gdpolk Hobbyist Hobbyist

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    Take my word on this. Look into the Ed Ashby reports. High FOC builds are much more forgiving. As your getting into perfect tuning also look at building an arrow for improved terminal performance in addition to perfect arrow flight.

    Also realize that the 3-Rivers or Stu calculator is pretty close most of the time with woodies and aluminum shafts but things get weird with carbons.

    It took me a few months to truly dial in my arrow setup. Mind you I was looking at various brands of shafts/components, point weights, fletching size/placement/cut type, etc, mine are hand crested so the lines match the laminations in my bow risers and can serve as a bow square in the field, and I wanted to have a batch that can shoot identically with a field point, rubber blunt, steel blunt, Judo point, and broadhead. I also tested broadheads and various forms of flu-flu fletchings. I went deep down the rabbit hole. However, I can now confidently shoot a bareshaft WITH a HUGE Grizzly broadhead to the same point of impact as my fletched field points out to double my effective hunting distance. ;) What this means to me is I can get by with much smaller feathers which buck water better in the rain and make less noise and create less drag.
     
  9. Youcantreadinthedark

    Youcantreadinthedark Amphibian. Supporter Bushclass I

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    Do not breathe that dust if you cut them yourself. Put a shopvac next to the actual cutting, and wear a mask, for your own health. I have ruined my own lungs and would not like to see you do the same.
    Are you gluing your own inserts in your bare shaft kit?

    "Methodical is best" is right, but the catch-22 is that you need a pretty dead-on consistent draw, aim, and release before you can worry about really fine-tuning. Trad archery is just like yoga, except you get to kill stuff. It's a whole lot of mental conditioning.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
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  10. Duncsquatch

    Duncsquatch Heed the call. Supporter

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    I agree about three Rivers chart with wood and aluminum. For carbon though I end up using around 300 or 400 spine arrows at 30". I shoot a 63 lb recurve and a 67 lb longbow. 200 or 175 grain head depending on the spine. Most of my 300 grain arrows are ones I have found from compound bow shooters and they require the 200 grain heads.
     
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  11. wingnuts

    wingnuts Hunter/Gatherer Provider/Protector Supporter

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    Amen! I do the same with the vac!
     
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  12. Blackhawk45hunter

    Blackhawk45hunter Pronounced sim-bee-duh Bushclass II

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    I’m really liking the looks of the Zwickey Eskimo, does anyone here use them?

    Assuming the 250 grain field points shoot well, im going to order the eskimos along with some 125 grain steel adapters so I can match my field point weight and maintain a high FOC of around 21.5%.

    From what ive seen reading online they have a long history of taking big game, and they’re less than half the price of other broadheads in that weight class.
     
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  13. Eric Westbrook

    Eric Westbrook Supporter Supporter

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    Might be a toss up between the Eskimo and the Bear Razor head, both have killed A LOT of critters!
     
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