Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by IA Woodsman, Mar 9, 2009.
I'm borrowing the pallet idea please and thank you .
Please do, it is certainly not my original idea. I found the thread where I saw it and linked it as reference and credit! Thanks @DuctTape!
ETA: you'll note in my post it was over a year ago that I saw this idea.
Rehung all of these today, they are all sitting for their oil treatment now. All hung on their old handles.
Left to right
-Collins legitimus CT pattern, pitted but a workhorse
-Warren 4lb USA military axe
- Plumb 3.5lb CT pattern, with a sheath I made out of scrap leather
-4lb plumb jersey
Alright, I'm wanting to learn here. When you say rehung on their old handles do you mean you were able to remove the original handles intact, refinish, and then rehang? If so, how do you remove the original handle without damaging it?
Yep, all had the original handles removed, soaked in linseed oil and re hung. I usually screw a wood screw into an old wedge, and pull the screw out with a claw hammer. The wedge normally comes out pretty easily. if not, I drill the wedge out carefully with a drill bit slightly smaller than the wedge width. If theres a metal wedge in it, it gets a little harder. With a metal step wedge, I normally drill a very small hole on each side of the wedge, and use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it until it comes out. When wedged properly, the holes will be filled by the wedge expanding. For example, heres the top of one of the handles that I had to drill the wedge out of.You can see how the wedge filled the spots where the drill bit hit the insides of the kerf.
I learned that trick from a few threads around here and it works great! The only time it hasn't worked was with a wedge that had dry rotted from sitting in a shed in Arizona for a long time. I dug that one out in shreds with an old, cheap screwdriver.
My new Welland Vale pick head axe: +2lbs on 26" handle
I finally got around to fitting the axe head to a new handle. I picked up the one closest in size to the original at a nearby Ace Hardware, and it had an almost sticky coat already applied. Due to time constraints I rushed, and so I am not super happy with my work. I may go back and reshape the shoulders to better match and I might also go back and sand down the entire handle and re-stain/reapply linseed oil. I got a little carried away carving the handle to fit into the eye, and so I had to do a lot of hand sanding to even the shoulders back out. I also sawed the wedge off flush, which I now regret. I need to go back and coat the top with beeswax or something so water and moisture don't get down inside it and rust. The shoulder area you can see I applied linseed oil where I sanded the stain off and just called it good for now. I am going to see how well it splits wood when I get a chance and if it seems solid I will leave it be and let the next generation work on it. All in all this has been really fun and I hope to find a lot more old axes to work on.
Good looking axe, just next time use a smaller metal wedge and stick it at 45 degrees. The idea is to push the wood toward the eye edges, not the metal.
Thanks for the tip, I will make sure to do that next time. I just used the wedge that came with the handle. I was looking for one of the hollow circle ones, but came up empty. So to clarify, is it better to go at an angle with the grain rather than against it?
What is the consensus on round wedges vs standard? I've got some stainless tubing I was considering trying as a wedge.
I don't want to speak for others, but cilinders are a pain to take out. I avoid as much as possible metal wedges.
Grain has little to do with the wedge angle. You have two pieces and a wood wedge there, the grain is not the problem but the tight fit. Be sure it has some wood on each end of the wedge.
I think they work about the same. Speaking strictly visually I prefer the look of no wedge, but if I had to choose I go with a smaller flat wedge. I find that most times the wedges House or other companies provide are way too wide at the top, aside from looking bad IMO, they also seem to be more prone to cracking the wood. The few times I used a metal wedge I bought one sized for a hatchet/hammer.
Well done young Sir .
Newest addition.... Hibbard True Value hewing hatchet. I like the look as is just gonna sharpen and work on a nice handle.
Thanks for the info on the round wedges. I think I'll stick with no wedge, and if absolutely necessary I'll do a standard steel type.
Love this place!!
I'm gonna start first by thanking Bax40 for helping with questions about a project I was looking to undertake . I have a Craftsman boys ax laying around , the axe was fine except I wanted a more compact offering . Not necessarily lighter but more packable . So I removed the handle and looked at my options for handle lengths . I felt 24" wasn't a lot shorter to make the whole project worth the effort .
I decided to go for a 19-20" length but that brought to mind yet another concern , weight/balance so out came the marker . I started marking out ways to lighten the head and this is what I came up with . The original weight of the head was 2.2 pounds . After mods I now come up with a weight of 1.14 pounds . I think even that minimal drop in weight will help achieve what I'm after in my home brew pack axe project . A packable axe still capable of serious work and compact enough for finer task one handed .
Finished up this beauty the other day. Really really liking it!
Really lol . Great job she's a looker to boot .
Nice job on that one! Glad to see it has a good home!
From a recent 5 day camping trip in the mountains of the high desert http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2017/04/a-2017-desert-renewal.html
My main tool was the BowHack, next was the Gerber and last the long handled axe (because it needs sharpening). The saw could not handle the lower trunk's diameter and the big axe was a bit dull so I left a couple of feet of good dry wood behind.
Flea market find....Handle is in good shape looks like it's been rubbed with bees wax.
A Disston 30 inch. Teeth still have set.
An early Kelly.
I saw the vinegaroon idea on this thread and just finished brewing up a batch. You mind posting a quick step-by-step process of how you apply it to the wood? Do you put the vinegaroon on the wood and then immediately wipe down with the baking soda paste? Just finished hanging my second axe head and would like to apply the groon on it.
Here's an old Craftsman hand sledge that I just rehafted; sanded the wood down, rubbed it with damp coffee grounds to add tannins, then grooned it and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Rinsed with the water and baking soda solution, let it dry, then blo'd it a couple times.
Here it is next to the Keen Kutter wearing it's new mask.
The vinegaroon gets better as it ages and coverts the iron.
I usually jut wipe it on with a cloth or cotton pads and let it sit for a while. When the color is about where I want it, I scrub the surface with a baking soda slurry for a bit to be sure I've covered everything, then rinse with very warm tap water.
It probably doesn't have to be really warm, but I do it, anyway.
After the wood dries, apply BLO with steel wool to smooth out the surface grain that raises.
BOOOO HISSSS! Get that hammer outta here, don't you know this is an axe thread, buddy!?!?
Nice looking hammer though! I just bought a bucket of heads that had a few half hatchet heads, but mostly old straight peens, cross peens, ball peens, cobblers, masons, framers ETC. I'm looking forward to doing some hammer resto's here real soon!
Lol, took ya long enough!!
That's why I threw in the pic of the Keen Kutter!
Well I worked on my CHREBA built pack ax some more today . I took a full sized House ax handle (standard size eye) and used my 4 in all and sand paper to bring it down to fit my modified boys axe head , It's a 19" handle . Removed the lacquer and applied one rub of BLO so far . Im liking the bit profile , it should be a good ax . And the balance is spot on which was a major concern . Removing that metal from the head was just the ticket . I just missed my hopeful weight of 2.5 pounds , it weighed in at 2.10 pounds .
New additions, AS Bucksaw and Mountaineer.
One of my Lee Reeves pack axes:
New Gransfors Bruks wilderness axe Ray Mears edition alongside my new AS Classic
AS Mountaineer , AS Classic, and Stephen Wade Cox 30th Anniversary knife
Some of my Lee Reeves axe collection on custom display I made. Several more not pictured but I haven't finished making a display for the rest yet.
Any of you guys ever seen a pattern like this? Picked it up in a lot with a bunch of other tools. About 2 lbs, with a hatchet sized eye. Unmarked.
Sitting around working on getting my pack axe dialed in . Sanding and so and contemplating the weight . I decided to look at factory offerings in the 19-20 inch range and saw that my weight of 2 pounds 10 ounces is right in the ball park of the factory offerings of this size tool so I'm more than pleased . I didn't get out in the brush with it , but I did beat up on a stump out back . I like the feel of it , it'll definitely be in rotation now . This'll is the size axe that will make me rethink some things ? I have hatchets and Hawks as well as large knives and larger axes . Some pretty close in weight (Kukris) and as much as I like them . This added weight when processing wood will most definitely be welcomed .
Just finished hanging my second axe. Learned a lot from my first experience and things went better this time around. Got the handle from House and it was great other than the fact that I didn't pay enough attention to the eye size and had to lop almost a half inch off the front of the eye and off the belly. I've only got basic tools like a hack saw and use an oscillating tool to sand things down, so little things like that can still pose a bit of a challenge.
The vinegaroon idea intrigued me so I started up my first batch a little over a week ago and applied it to the handle. Was really cool to see how light it went on and then how much the color deepened. At the risk of having a mismatched handle I stopped part way through to compare the bare wood to the vinegaroon stained wood. Finished it all up with a coat of BLO.
Really enjoy doing this and this new hobby will make for some great gifts for family and friends. I'm hooked.
I'll be taking these 3 camping with me this weekend:
That Diston is sweet, 30 inch is a hard size to come by. Perfect camp saw for processing larger wood and fits behind the truck seat for getting a log off the road. Nice you got the helper handle with it. Really adds to the leverage and reduces the fatigue. Reminds me that I have a 36" Superior in need of a helper and a tooth cover. Might be today's project. I have a serious case of saw envy.
Looks hand made. Shaped and weighted for splitting.
You had to get this axe with the Saw! Serious old school logger tools there. Great find.
My 36" Superior as mentioned above. Sorry deleted the "before" pictures. Got it in an antique shop cheap, around $20 as it had a rusty blade and a broken handle held together with finishing nails. The set was good and the teeth sharp and appeared to have little use other then being stored in a shed somewhere. I am sure the owners looked it as only yard art. I was tickled to have it as my others are well over 40 inch blades and hard on an old man. Besides I like to rescue and put to use old tools that need love.
I managed to gorilla glue the handle back together, left the nails but filed them off flush and smooth. A little oil and wax on the handle finished it off. I took the surface rust off the blade and lightly filed the teeth. I oiled the blade and the white appearing scuff marks you see is bar soap for lube. Cuts like a champ.
It didn't come with a helper handle and the existing blade holes were smaller then the handles I had so I put together a homemade. Doesn't come off as easy as a commercial helper but I am not likely to use this as a two man due to the blade length but could switch it with a wrench. Made it out of ash and a little stout but it fits my hand.
I like to keep a cross cut in the truck or jeep as more then once I have turned down a road and found a tree down across it. Hasn't happened yet but expect to be out during a storm and have a tree go down blocking me in so the big saw makes a handy low tech chain saw fueled by bacon and Irish whiskey. Doesn't do though to have these big saws bouncing around behind your seat bopping down the rutted roads as the it ruins the set and anything nearby. So along with the helper handle, I threw together a blade guard. Nothing fancy, just a couple of 1 x 4's separated by a blade width piece of lathe and screwed and glued together. A couple of leather holds to keep it all together. One of those fun projects, not too challenging but for once, everything went well.
After a 7wk wait, some Finnish beauties showed up at my door, all the way from their home land.......
Billnäs 12.2 axe and a vintage Finnish Viiala File!!!! Excited to have these in my collection after wanting a Finnish axe for so long. I now have a box with a bunch more headed my way from Finland.
What can I say, it was a long wait and I was bored and impatient, so I found a source for more..........
Finished this Kelly up today
New toy! Plumb boys Axe. Not sure of the head weight since it was already hafted when I bought it. Pretty happy with this flea market score! I may end up taking the wedge out and head off and bringing the shoulder down a little, then re-hangng the head just to get past that bit of broken out haft at the top of the eye, plus so I can get a little sticking out the top. What do you guys think?
Also, anyone ever seen this with these where one side of the eye is thicker than the other?
Next to my Norlund Voyager.
That's a really nice Plumb!
Here's a few I've been using in the last couple weeks
Kelly perfect doubles 3.2
Bluegrass beveled jersey, on vintage handle 4lb
Plumb beveled kentucky 4lb
True temper /marshal wells zenith 4.2 swamper
Cleaned up a old friend!
Just a few of my favorite things with a new Mora 125 stainless knife. Old Schmidt pack saw and hunter Axe