Discussion in 'Transportation' started by werewolf won, Jun 16, 2011.
Thanks, looking forward to trying them. Me too, XL hands.
A new Trek store is opening here in Westlake Village. Below is a description of the event from their Facefook page.
Please join us for our Grand Opening Event!
We will have FREE food and drinks, as well as treats from Nekter Juice Barand Sprinkles Westlake Village.
-Electric bike demo
-Fabulous raffle prizes
-Silent auction that includes a signed jersey from Fabian Cancelara, signed guitar from Chris Martin, the lead singer of Coldplay, and Sideshow Collectibles items also . ALL proceeds will go to the Micheal P. Nosco Foundation.
Special guests Gary Fisher and Holly Lawrence will also be participating in the fun so don't leave without an autographed poster!
The manager is Danny Lupo, formerly the local Trek rep. He is the bestest bestest guy. I call him the roadie poster boy.
New from Bikesdirect. Titanium frame, carbon fork, thru axles, tapered steerer, full Ultegra, $2499.
Ive ridden with gary fisher a few times, hard to not see him with his mustache.
Should be a good event. I don't normally go to things like this but Danny is the best. There's a link in the event to Sideshow Collectibles. That is owned by Greg, Danny's neighbor, who is also a bike rider. Dave Zabriskie, former pro, TdF rider, teammate of Lance Armstrong, also lives on that street! I have a dog walking customer in their neighborhood. Sideshow makes figurines of movie characters. Greg is a very generous sponsor of the LUX youth cycling team and sponsors cycling clubs and events in the area. I met him shortly after I moved here 11 years ago and he has always been kind despite my unorthodoxy.
It's always amazing to see cyclists in street clothes. Some look nothing like they do on the bike. I will not talk about bike shit.
I just got an email from Amazon saying that my ESI XXL Extra Chunky grips have shipped, the ones I paid $4 for. $4 + $6 shipping but that sure beats $36.
The grips measure 8.25 inches long. I will have to cut them to use on the Wald 872s. The Chinese grips measure 5". The grip area of the bar is about 7.5", so 1.5 grips per side. I'm not sure how that's going to work out, butting two grips together. I'm curious how the quality will compare to the ESI grips. They are probably made in the same factory.
Amazon will drop prices really low on things that dont sell often, it is what happened when I would buy rose city cedar arrows from them. Normal price was $120 for a dozen, and I would end up getting them for $25 a dozen. I have the extra chunky grips on the fatbike and like them alot. A team member showed me a little trick, if you crash the end of the grip will rip from hitting the ground. If you have a spare grip lockring you can put it on the end to help prevent the end from ripping. Its not needed if its a road bike, but for mountain bikes it definitely helps.
The Wald 867 came today. 867 top, 872 bottom. All the internet 867 photos did not reveal the flare of the drops, looked like they came straight back. That's why I previously chose the 872. The 872 is 10cm, 4" wider at the ends but nearly the same width at the front of the drop. The 867 is 51cm at the ends, center to center. The 867 cost $15 delivered from Wamlart of all places. I was delighted when I saw that flare.
Internet 867 photos.
867 mounted on Traitor.
Shifters mounted ahead of brake levers, behind on 872.
I used a -6 degree stem with the 872, but -15 with the 867. The drop of both bars is about the same but for some reason the 867 wants to be lower.
I'm liking the 867. It looks more like a drop bar than the 872. My shoulders feel very relaxed and even though they're 4" narrower my grip on them seems to be better.
I think they will be better on the road but a little too narrow for the dirt. They feel very powerful standing in the drops.
Photos from Trek store grand opening event.
Me and Gary Fisher. We are close in age.
Danny Lupo on the right, store manager.
Misc photos of shop and turnout.
Gary is an interesting guy.
And very sweet too.
I took the Traitor out with the Wald 867. I love it. I am going to do some stompin' on this bar.
ESI also make handlebar tape for drop bars. Aside from being made of the same material as the grips, silicone, it has another interesting feature, it's reverse beveled.
It should wrap more smoothly than any other tape. The ribs are my number one complaint about handlebar tape. It's expensive, though, $42 on the ESI site.
The $4 ESI grips I ordered are on their way, arrive next week. The Chinese grips have shipped too. I wouldn't be surprised if they were exactly the same thing. I'm going to have to use 2 of the Chinese grips on each side since they are standard length. I've been thinking about how to do that. A hobby mitre box and saw is pretty cheap, would be useful for other things as well. I will probably cut both grips and butt them together at the cut ends. The uncut ends are beveled, they will be on ends of the grip.
It's Saturday. I've got two sets of dogs to walk this morning. One set is two beautiful Golden Doodles. Then, I get to ride. I will probably ride the Traitor with the new bar so that I can dial in, refine, the fit. I'm pretty excited about that bar. It makes the Traitor feel every bit as fast as the new carbon bike. The bar is the most important component on the bike. The right bar will turn a pigs ear of a bike into a silk purse.
Weather man said it would be 75 degrees today, and its the one day this week that I'm not working at the bike shop. I got there and half way through the gps said 94 degrees. Oh well, still had fun. Found a apple orchard while riding, sign said free apples to those who are passing by, which I thought was pretty cool.
Rode on sunday too, found some small dirt jumps.
The new upgrade arrived today.
I have those... great pedals!
Me too! Have lasted 4 years of me beating them and they still work perfectly. Gonna rebuild them today. I ride clipless now, but still use them on my fatbike. I do wish they came with spare pins.
Possible way to cut a grip. Use edge of stem as guide for sharp knife. The ESI $4 grips arrived.
Chinese grips arrived, ordered 5/21, delivered 6/1, a week earlier than tracking stated. They appear to be made of the the same stuff as the ESI grips. I installed them with hairspray, ready to use almost immediately. They are more plush than handlebar tape, I wish I'd thought of it sooner. They were $1 a pair including plugs, free shipping. I got several pairs in black, red, blue, and orange, why not.
I decided to first try and see if they are adequately long rather than butting two grips together to cover the entire grip area. It works. Most of the time my entire hand is on the grip. Ocassionally my index finger is on the bare bar but what really matters is that my palms are always on the grip.
I am going to try them on an 80 mile ride tomorrow with Ruben. I think it going to be awesome.
PS It's been a whole year since I did the Davis Double Century with Ruben.
The new bar slipped a bit on the inside of the 25.4 to 31.8 shim, chromed steel is slippery. I put on another stem with an open face plate, drilled a hole through the shim and bar, then put in a stainless self tapping screw. Problem eliminated and I can still adjust the tilt of the bar. The shim does not slip inside the stem.
I was doing some lake laps yesterday and saw a guy with aero bars on the opposite side of the street. I've being seeing this guy ever since I moved here 11 years ago. More than once he's crossed the street, come up from behind, and blown by me. I have always had a tough time sprinting to catch him and then trying to stay with him. Not today. I sprinted but recovered immediately. Of course, he pushed hard to dislodge me, but when he backed off a bit to recover, I knew I had his measure. If it had come down to a stoplight sprint, I think I'd have won, but he flipped another u-turn.
This is a testament to the new bar.
96 miles in 6 hours riding time, 16 mph average speed, lunch stop and snack stop. The Wald 867 and silicone grips is the best setup I've ever used. I can't remember feeling this good after a 96 mile ride.
Yah, well I went like 6 miles on my picture above!!!
Wow, 96 miles! I can't imagine doing that. That's some serious fitness!
My new woodsloafing bike (Surly ECR) came in last week, I'm in the process of outfitting it so I can get away from the dang concrete... waiting on the brown truck to bring my racks this week!
Did a bunch of woods riding on my Surly ECR today!
Well I was offered to race enduro for my shops team today. Not sure if I will but I thought that was pretty cool. Id have to get an enduro bike if that was the case, and would probably get a trek slash 9.8 if so.
Pics of Piolet with Wald 867 and $1 China grips. Did my first commute so equipped this morning, best setup ever on this bike, and, I've tried a lot of them.
The shifter and lever placement is perfect, as if the bar was designed for it, but of course, it wasn't.
If you want a budget drop bar, hydraulic disc setup, this is it. The advantage over hydraulic road levers is cost and crash worthiness. The bar was $15, Shimano MTB discs are $35 per wheel, Shimano MTB shifters $50, cheap! Shimano is the best choice because the small shift levers on both sides can be pushed or pulled unlike SRAM.
I did notice that the price of Shimano RS505 hydraulic road levers has dropped to $300. These are the same levers that came on my new carbon bike, and, they are good.
That makes hydraulic road discs as cheap as rim brakes when you combine the cost of levers and calipers.
Congratulations, you picked the right bike.
Such a good looking setup. That blue bike in the above pics can be run with 29x3 PLUS tires if you run a 1X drivetrain.
New tire day!! Gonna see if these Maxxis Chronicles are as good as everyone says. Got them set up ghetto [ split tube ] tubeless with Finish Line sealant.
I really like that setup
It was wise of you to use schrader tubes. I did split tube with Gravity Vidar and that worked but CST BFT would not work so I'm having to run tubes. The beads of the BFT close together with the tire off the rim but the Vidar beads stay apart.
The BFT tires are great. I found out that BFT stands for Big F*cking Tire.
Yesterday evening I put in 13.1 miles on my 29+. I need some advice on cleaning/oiling my chain etc. Any decent degreasing/oiling products and specific brushes that I should use?
Put Wald 867 and grips on the orange Motobecane gravel bike and hit the dirt with Jason.
I was worried that it would feel too narrow on the dirt but the grasp on the bar is so good. I was going over the bumps so well. I hurriedly put the bar on the bike and didn't have time to put a screw in, it did slip but all fixed now.
Jason is very skeptical about that bar but I have tried so many and this is the best. We're very different riders, he's a true dirt rider, I'm a roadie on the dirt. His specialty is techy stuff, mine is speed. I can't touch him, he can't touch me, in our respective niches. My neighbor is organizing a big gravel ride this summer. It will be all roadies. Jason will suffer on that ride because it will be a mix of road and dirt with nothing very technical.
It's going to be a laugh riding with roadies on the dirt. I started riding cyclocross in 1996 and I remember how queer it felt riding what is essentially a road bike on the dirt. Most of them are in that boat at this point. They will all be trying to outdo each other and I expect crashes. I'm not going to contribute. They are going to be scrutinizing our drops only riding styling, we are going to be smirking at their hoods riding over the rough stuff. It's going to be fun.
I use bathroom wipes. It doesn't clean it super super well but clean enough. It's so easy that I clean my chain more often than otherwise.
So I have that park tool chain cleaner, and I use it maybe 2 times a year, mostly on the fatbike during the winter. What I normally do is just soak a rag in degreaser and run the chain through it a few times, until the chain is clean. I then use a chain lube and put it on the chain, pedal a few times, and the wipe off the excess lube. I usually use simple green to clean bikes, and that’s what we use at work (I work at a bike shop). My favorite chain lube is the muck off c3 ceramic lube. Prevents rust and keeps the drivetrain noise down. Get a set of old toothbrushes and use it to clean the cassette and chain.
I only degrease mine when I clean my entire bike and like TBC above use normal scrub brushes and toothbrushes to knock the gunk out of the chain, cassette, and derailleurs. I'm currently trying dry silicone chain lube, but noticing I have to re-lube more often than the tri-flo oil I had used in the past. My riding is 90%+ hard surface.
My recent order of bike shit from Jenson USA arrived in less than 24 hrs. I ordered some shims to try a Wald 867 on my 29+.
Full carbon bike, same frame and fork as mine, MTB derailleurs, MTB shifters, MTB hydraulic discs, 50/39/30 crank, 9 speed.
Put a Wald 867 on it and it would be a very sweet gravel bike for only $999, free shipping.
Got this really cheap off craigslist yesterday. A pump track/dirt jumps were built pretty close to my house so I’m happy to now have a dirt jumper. It will also help a lot with bike handling skills.
2009 giant stp frame
Hope pro 2 hubs
Fox f100 rlc fork
And the list goes on and on
102 miler on Saturday with Ruben. It took an hour longer than last week, 7 hrs vs. 6, but it was a harder route and 8 miles longer. The last hill is steep and long, doubly hard with 98 miles in your legs. The value of the triple crank showed itself. Ruben was climbing it strongly but spinning won the day.
A 100 mile ride will reveal any weakness in your riding position. I thought I had it perfected but with 20 to go, I was suffering. The mistake is riding with the saddle too high. It makes sense that the higher the saddle, the more leverage on the cranks. But, what happens is that you overuse your legs and underuse your gluts. With the foot level, not with the toes pointing down, you employ your gluts and hamstrings more which are much stronger and more durable than the quads. I remember, back in the day, that Greg Lemond's coach would not allow him to raise his saddle, now I understand.
Moving the cleat forward will facilitate a level foot. Mine are almost all the way forward. Another advantage of a level foot is that it employs the muscles of the ankles more.
The more muscular engagement, the better. I think of the legs as connecting rods. They are only there to transmit the power, the power comes from elsewhere.
I was fortunate enough to fall in with Aaron, a pro, and Doug, amateur racer, doing some intervals. Of course, Aaron was untouchable but I held my own with Doug. After the third sprint I couldn't stand as long as they could. They'd get ahead but I was able to catch up every time. The good thing was that I recovered sufficiently between each interval. I am sure that I am still fatigued from last Saturday.
Bike Snob riding a 100 year old bike at the 2018 L'Eroica California.
Check out those handlebars.
PS The dropouts of the fork have no slots, the fork has to be spread to get the wheel in. Thru axles are nothing new.