Discussion in 'Transportation' started by werewolf won, Jun 16, 2011.
Here is my Soma Junebug vs Salsa Cowchipper comparison. They looked pretty close on paper.
There's nothing wrong with 3x and lots wrong with 1x. When the masses figure this out, Shimano and SRAM will only be too glad to sell them 2x or 3x.
I'm running 2 x 10 on my no suspension 29+, 36/22 chainrings, 11-36 cassette, and it is completely adequate. That might be geared a little low for MINUS tires but the PLUS tire adds gear inches. I've "raced " guys with MINUS tires and they were spun out even though we had the same gears.
Here's a pic of Gator, Woodchipper, and Cowchipper. The Gator is interesting in that it's 22.2mm in the grip area which means MTB controls slide right on. I did just that but I still didn't like it, too wide for my taste, too much flare too. I run a Wald on my MTB and even though it's only 51cm wide, C to C, I never feel lacking for leverage, the grasp on it is so good. Fits better through the narrow bits of the trail too. The Gator is 66.5cm wide, 15.5cm wider than the Wald, 6 inches.
The Wald is actually a little wider than the Gator at the front of the grip area which is really where it counts.
View of Wald 867 from above to show the flare of them.
That's another dirt drop I've tried, the Junebug. Way too small for my hands, took off my bike immediately.
Totally agree man. I am excited to go back to 3x. On my dirt drop rig, shown in the snow in my prior post, I run normal 29er tires since 2.4 is the largest that will fit, but up front I have varied them up to 29x3 tires. The 29+ up front is mostly what I desire from the plus platform anyways, except for the really loose climbs where I cannot gain traction as well as when on my Trek Stache with 29x3.0 front and rear. The problem with the Stache is that I can ONLY go 1x and only up to 32T chainring. I may be selling it soon. The grip area is definitely the width that matters to me as well. My 46cm Cowchippers are just about perfect and I can fit the bigger Wald 139 basket on my Rawland Cycles Demi Porteur rack in between the drops too. Wish you lived close so I could try out your Wald bars and MTB brake setup. Looks like it could handle technical terrain while braking much better than the drop bar levers.
The Junebug wouldn't fit the Outershell Rack Bag I am testing and felt way too narrow at the bends to me as well.
Sorry to interrupt the whole flow of this thread but uh... hi.
The wife and I just bought our first “real” bikes, though they are entry level. We’re sticking to pavement for the time being. I’m scared to wreck my bike off-road. I honestly only bought a MTB to hold my weight on pavement, but after buying it and watching a ton of MTB stuff on YouTube I’m super motivated to lose some serious weight so I can get out there with y’all.
Not interrupting the thread at all! Congrats on the new bikes!
Thanks! I think other than the Selle seat I put on, all I’ll need in the near future is a new wheel set. Something as beefy as possible.
So many bikes can't run a front derailleur and/or chainrings larger than the middle chainring of a triple. Many 1x cranks can't be used for 2x and/or have a proprietry bolt pattern with a paltry chainring selection. SRAM 1x deraiileurs can't be used for 2x, I know from trying.
1x is a bummer in so many ways.
A Wald 867 bar and Problem Solvers 25.4 to 31.8 shims would cost around $30. A pretty cheap experiment.
Here's some pic of my carbon gravel bike with VentureMax bar and hydraulic road levers. I only ride the drops so I have the levers slid down to optimize braking in the drops. This makes the hoods unridable. I don't even bother to wrap the tops because I'll only put my hands there in the most casual circumstances. Thr grips are ESI XXL Extra Chunky with 1.5" trimed off. This is way better than any tape. This setup works very well on the dirt.
Steel gravel bike with Wald bar, TRP hydraulic, and MTB shifters.
My mountain bike. This bike was $599 a few years ago when I got it, now it's $499 in five colors.
Tweaks I've made.
Covert hubs to nutted axles. I made the 235mm rear axle out of threaded rod because the longest ready made axle is 187mm. This is the greatest tweak, poor man's thru axle.
Clutch rear derailleur.
Wald 867 handlebar.
Shimano Zee 4 piston brakes. Original brakes, Tektro 2 piston hydraulic, plenty good.
Changed chainrings from 40/28 to 36/22.
Brake rotors changed from 160/160mm to 203/180.
ESI XXL Chunky grips.
For a while I ran the tires split tube ghetto tubeless but I'm just as happy with the tubed CST BFT 29x3.0 tires with tire liners and they are actually less hassle.
@Donald Devall That's why I went with a Fat Bike it holds me without any issues and now that I have it I would not own anything else it just makes you smile when you ride it Like a giddy lil school girl. Slowly getting down went to the docs today and im at 408 2 years ago I weighed over 550 lbs how much more I dont know cause that's as high as the scale would go. I lost a freaking person how insane is that. I will tell you I plan on losing another one. I want you to know if you put your mind to it, it will happen but it takes time. Something that's helped me is going on the keto diet but its not really a diet its a whole new way to live your life. Whats more is youre not hungry and its really cheap to do. I actually saved a lot of money on my groceries. If its something your interested in there are some great youtube videos by doctors that can get you started and give you a lot of good info or hit me up and I can give you a basic run down on it. Congrats to you both...something from another youtube channel I watch that has really motivated me..."It Only Takes A Bike To Be A Biker, So Get The F!#@ Out and B1!" - B1ker
Congratulations on your new bikes and welcome to the thread.
That is awesome and inspiring.
Thanks for the words man. That’s amazing. Congratulations to you!!! I’ve done Keto before but only for a couple months. I do love eating that way and totally believe in it. I just have to gather the will power to stick to it.
My biggest problem is that when working offshore we kind of have to eat what the cook puts out. But hey. Excuses are like buttholes right?
Yes Donald, congrats to you and you wife on the wheels, welcome to the thread, and the bicycling world.
@GeoKrpan - can't see your pics in your last few posts.
Arghhhhh. I fixed it, better?
Yes! I can see them now. Thanks!
I like that steel rig the best. Looks like it could be a great long distance gravel grinding beast.
The red one is awesome too. My good friend purchased one of those in black and lives in the desert. Its great for the all road bikepacking rides he does where there is a large sand component to his route.
Would like to see that through axle on the red one. I like your style of figuring out how to accomplish your goals for each bike and thinking outside the box.
Pics of both sides of the rear and front hubs.
It is not a thru-axle but, rather, a solid axle with nuts a la BMX and track bikes. I would bet it's every bit as good as a thru-axle. You never see quick releases on BMX and track bikes for good reason. Solid axles and nuts are as light as hollow axles and QRs, and lighter than thru-axles.
The hub spacing on this bike is 135/170 f/r. The rear needed an axle of at least 205mm in length. The longest ready made axle is 187mm. The front used a ready made axle of 174mm length. The bottom bracket shell is 100 mm wide.
I bought a 1 meter long piece of 4140 chromoly rod in the nominal diameter of 10 mm with metric threading of 1 mm, 25.4 mm per inch. The cost was $25 delivered.
The rod is not perfectly straight/true throughout it's length. So, I had to cut the straightest/truest section out of it. It totally worked, that axle has been on the bike for three years. If the axle is not straight/true enough the cones will self tighten and if that goes unnoticed the hub will be ruined.
I cannot do this tweak on the silver, steel gravel bike because the beautiful polished silver hubs use cartridge bearings. The carbon bike has loose ball bearing hubs so I can do this tweak on that bike. I could use that wheelset on the silver bike for dirt riding. Both bikes use 100/135 mm hub spacing.
The silver bike, carbon bike, and new commuter bike have no brake rub with QRs.
The new commuter bike also has loose ball brearing QR hubs and 100/135 hub spacing. Loose ball bearing hubs are an advantage! Shimano has stuck with loose ball bearing hubs.
Thank you for the compliment. I take the bushcraft approach, be resourceful, make it work.
I have been goofing around with "alt" handlebars since 2008. In 2008 I got a single speed CX bike. The first time I rode a long, steep hill I realized the futility of standing with the hands on the hoods, and, the absolute inadequacy of the drop bar for standing in the drops. I got a WTB Mountain Road dirt drop and stood in the drops. Slowly it dawned on me that I wasn't riding the hoods at all and to slide them down to optimze braking in the drops.
I have tried so many handlebars since then. Moustache/northroad bars don't work because there is little or no drop. The Wald 867 is the best so far.
Here's what I look like on my mountain bike. I believe the bar is a Wald 872.
Shimano cycling glasses just arrived from ebay, $33 delivered. Glasses, two more sets of lenses, very nice carrying case, sack/cleaner, very nice fit and quality like all things Shimano.
I had a fat bike that I rode for a few years but decided to sell it as it was just a bit too sluggish for me on some faster single tracks around my area. Having gotten use to all that grip I decided to go with plus tires, 2.8’s to be exact, and I think it’s the perfect size for my style of riding. The new rig is a 2018 Santa Cruz Tallboy 3 Al with R kit on it, I got a year end closeout deal on it so the price wasn’t as bad as you’d think. I also picked up a new old hard tail, a 2008 Gary’s fisher Wahoo. I’ve ridden both a lot and I tend to disagree with the 1x hate I’ve seen in this thread. I’ve ridden a lot of 3x and 2x, and I’ve had my 1x for a while. All have been reliabale for me and none of them had any hardware wear or failure issues. I guess I haven’t read back far enough in this thread to see what specific gripes are with the 1x but honestly I haven’t found a downside to having my go to mountain bike setup that way. My Tallboy does have ability for front derailleur but I doubt id go that way in the future. If I was riding on gravel trails or the road I’d probably want more gears but not on the single track. Just my $0.02.
What kind of bike is this? I like the look of it..
It’s 2018 Giant Trance 3, it’s a great bike.
Yeah, it's ok for MTBing but it's lacking for gravel/road. I have this sickening suspicion that it's liked because of the weight savings. Also, I have no doubt that some people are derailleur challenged. Run what ya' brung. Good thing your bike is 2x friendly.
BTW Nice bikes, PLUS tires rule. Gary Fisher was still making 26ers in 2008. Back in the day Redline was the first to stop making them.
Me and Gary Fisher at the grand opening of a Trek Superstore last year.
2008 when I bought this Redline 29er
I remember those. It was a good bike then, good now. 2008 was when 29ers took off. PLUS tires are an equally big phenomenon.
In 2008 rigid forks had a resurgence and that repeated with 29+. But, in both cases it was short lived.