Big Wave Surfers

Discussion in 'Media Forum' started by RickWA, Apr 17, 2019.

  1. RickWA

    RickWA Supporter Supporter

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    I know this is not a typical Bushcraft topic, but I kinda' feel like it fits in the realm of blending with the powers of nature.

    Several years ago I stumbled upon the documentary Riding Giants. I was fascinated by it. I am a native Californian, but I grew up in the central valley and was never a part of the beach/surfing scene.

    But, man... after watching this... I wish I had been.

    Here's an excerpt. If you're willing to pay for it on Youtube or can find it anywhere, it's a really great watch.




    And not to make this totally about Laird Hamilton, but... he's kinda' the man.




    And if you've got the time to spare...

     
  2. Scotchmon

    Scotchmon Supporter Supporter

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    I can’t imagine the beat down waves of that magnitude could dish out!
    Better bring a lunch (and dinner!) for that!
     
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  3. beacon

    beacon Simul justus et peccator Supporter Bushclass I

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    I've been surfing for over 30 years (though much less now than before), and I don't think I've ever been out in anything greater than about 18', and I've been out in some scary stuff that was only around 10'-12'. I can't even imagine 30'+ ; Much respect.
     
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  4. RickWA

    RickWA Supporter Supporter

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    Here's another interesting vid with Joe Rogan and Laird Hamilton's wife, talking about the mentality of big wave surfers.

     

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