Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by ponchomatt, Dec 19, 2018.
Looks like a lot of thought went into it. Great work
Here is mine. I recently had to hack off the thumb bar and install a new one due to poor positioning and stripped set-screws. But it was fun to re-shape the bar and get it "just so". And now it looks real pretty again....
I actually took my quick thumb stud off my 110 and my 112 for good. It’s not that I didn’t like it, but I realized that most the time I just don’t use it. Most times if I need to open it one handed, it’s been quicker for me to pinch the blade, pop the handle down and go.
I've found those aftermarket thumb studs, at least the brass ones, you have to be careful not to overtighten them or they can warp. But otherwise they're great.
Thanks to this thread, I got myself a new 110 in 5160.
Everything is perfect except the backspring doesn’t sit flush when closed. It’s perfect when it’s open though.
Yeah I used to do exactly that, but the bar is so pretty. It's like jewelry for my blade.
I think that might could've been what happened to the first one.
Made a sheath for this one. Never saw one look
Looks like micarta, pretty cool
Had to but down as it was top heavy.
Went to a park today. While the kids were playing on the playground, I found myself a discarded stick. Something hardwood and dry, not the easiest to carve.
Been carrying my 112 in BOS 5160 in the stock belt sheath. Used it to play with some notches. Still using factory edge, still paper-shaving sharp afterwards. I love a nice drop point but, the tip of the standard clip point sure can get into tight spaces... No batoning here for perpendicular cuts, strictly carving, using safe handling practices (i.e. don't cut towards yourself or otherwise apply force in a direction where your flesh is)…
Hidden Woodsman haversack in the background. Love that thing.
Very nice. Proves time and time again what these knives are capable of.
Anyone know what kind of leather Buck uses for the sheath. The brass on my knife turns green over time if I leave it unused for a while. Looking at the pictures it looks like others have the same issue.
I was Googling the Green slime and came across....
1968 - BUCK over USA
1973 - Added model # to above
1996 Backwards "C"
1997 Upside down "U"
1999 A squared "C"
2000 Backwards squared "C"
2001 Upside down squared "U"
2003 A "T" symbol
2004 Upside down "T"
Chrome tanned leather will do that.
That's more a property of brass than the leather. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Due to the copper content, over time it will tarnish / oxidize. That initially manifests as a darkening and dulling but, if left alone long enough, will turn green in spots. That green pigment is called verdigris and it's the reason the Statue of Liberty is green...
I've had it happen on way more pieces than just in Buck sheaths. Other brand sheaths, items that don't have leather contact at all... Bronze is another copper alloy (copper and tin) that does the same thing, as does copper by itself.
If it bothers you, you can polish it off then put a protectant on the brass to delay recurrence. Also, if you handle it a lot, the tarnish will wear off on your hands before it build to the level of verdigris.
Breaking news - I got a spam from Buck, they can now offer Ebony scales again, which was the original wood used as 110 scales when the knife was introduced in the '60s but hasn't been available in a LONG time, since a lot of import bans went into effect.
They're offering the 110, 112, and 101 with Ebony. For the 110 and 112, that includes finger grooved and auto models.
Link to their website page offering Ebony, it's a customizable option:
Full text of the announcement:
"Sit back and we will tell you the tale of our journey with ebony. Back in the 60's when we introduced a little knife you might have heard of, the 110 Folding Hunter, it was decided that ebony would be the perfect complement to those beautiful, brass bolsters. Things were good for many years until practices of harvesting this tropical hardwood ran afoul of the law. This led to bans on importing most ebony into the USA. We transitioned to the best available alternative which was a resin-treated wood that was durable and classic looking. But, nothing could beat the real thing.
A few years back, Taylor Guitars, a company located near Buck's previous factory in El Cajon, California, reached out about a new supply chain of ebony. We were immediately interested.
Taylor Guitars had been approached to buy an ebony mill in Cameroon, Africa. During the vetting process, their eyes were opened to the malpractices of the industry. Ebony is a slow growth tree, taking over 60 years to mature. Only about 1 in 10 trees produces the famous black ebony (which most people thought was the only ebony). Most trees have marbled patterns. There is no way to find out which is which until you cut into the tree. This led to the forest being stripped in search of black ebony. Add to this, low paid workers, corruption, lack of resources, etc. and they almost backed out the deal. This created an ethical dilemma for Taylor Guitars, as they knew backing out of the deal like that meant they would never use ebony on their guitars again.
Taylor purchased the mill, named Crelicam, and quickly changed many things. Workers were given contracts and better working conditions, and they brought in new equipment from the USA. They realized the marbled ebony might be their preferred ebony for the gorgeous marbling. They started using it in their high end guitars and customers loved it. They partnered with research institutes to do one of the most complete studies of the ebony tree. They learned how to germinate and plant it. They partnered with locals to pay them to plant ebony as well as care for the trees till they reach a certain size.
Today they have created a model that is working. The raw ebony comes into Taylor's factory in El Cajon, California where it is turned into raw handle scales. These scales are then finished by our skilled craftsmen here in Post Falls, Idaho. We are happy to partner with Taylor Guitars to offer you genuine ebony on our classic products."
It's good to see love for the classic Buck 110 and its descendants here! Yeah, it's heavy and it's not as easy to open one-handed, and it's old school . . . but you can't beat it in terms of how it slices. Buck 110s are cutting machines. Plus, I have yet to find a folding knife that even approaches how good a 110 feels in the hand when you're using it. It's only competition is its little bro', the Buck 112!
I'm a sucker for the special edition Buck 110s that DLT Trading has been doing. Last year's with CPM S35VN blade are winners! They're a good replacement for my beloved 1990s vintage 110 that has a Buck Custom Shop BG-42 blade swap (now retired).
This 110 is a recent retirement gift from a friend and co-worker. I haven't carried or used it much, but really like it so far.
My drop point 110 in S30V steel with cherry scales and nickel silver bolsters, and matching 119.
Nuts! I like my 110 and I love my Taylor 414ce. Now I need to buy a knife that combines the two companies. I don't need another 110, but I may not be able to resist...
I like the 110 drop points.
Those of you with the misfortune to remember my little drama from a couple months ago, trying to get an oak handled 112 drop point in BOS 5160 and a couple tries both got me ones with poor fit and no BOS logo with the 5160 markings, which were returned...
Well, with a couple of months passing and it appearing that amazon has rotated through its stock, I decided to try again. Once again, what I received just had a simple 5160 marking without a BOS logo, like what's shown in the first quoted post. But this time, though the fit and action is not perfect like it is on my matching 110, it's good enough. As much as I'd prefer to have the proper BOS logo like on my other ones, I'm tired of fighting that battle, it's just cosmetic, so I'll keep this one.
Give me another day or two and I'll post a pic of my full Buck BOS 5160 collection. It's as complete as I'm gonna make it.
I bet they make more models with those scales. Just think of the opertunities.
I don't believe Buck is offering them directly. Instead a 3rd party company called Copper and Clad orders custom batches from Buck and then resells them individually. Same with the BOS 5160 stuff and some other custom build outs that are available at amazon and elsewhere.
Or am I wrong? Please correct me.
I ordered mine through the Buck custom shop. Also two 112s, one cherry scaled, one ebony, both S30V steel, with finger grooves and rivets, nickel silver bolsters.
I really wish the custom shop would include 5160 as a steel choice. I think it's unfortunate that you can't get a carbon steel. I'd really love to have a carbon steel and silver bolsters instead of brass. But that combo seems unavailable in any form.
I've been using my ESEE Izula for the last few days due to @schapm knife shaming me, but last night I retrieved my 2018 DLT Exclusive Buck 110 from its resting place and I'm going to use it for a while!
I'll see what I can do. Unlike those who live in and embrace the 21st century, I use a flip phone with minimal photo capability. I shall try to borrow SWMBO's smart phone soon.
Sorry, took me longer to get these posted than I had planned...
My Buck in BOS 5160 collection. First the thread topic, 110 and 112.
Then my full BOS 5160 lineup. Notice some themes? Brass hardware across the board. Oak for the drop points, charcoal/black for the Texas clip points...
Really, if you expand it to include my full Buck collection regardless of steel, only adds a couple more, a Reaper and an old 120...
@kronin323 , you got the same kinda will power as me.
I've been thinking about getting a backup Buck 110 but then I realized I could get a drop point one. I can't decide - one thing is that it would mean the point would be much less vunerable - another thing is that it doesn't seem to look like the classic Buck generations of people loved ... Anybody else have/had the same dilemma?
And another question - do you think that there's major difference between the drop point sabre and full flat grinds?
One more question - is an aluminium Buck 110 with drop point blade in 5160 or 420HC and with G10 scales available somewhere, pls?
I carried the classic 112 for decades. Now I prefer my 112 drop point, and I don't feel that there is anything less "classic" about it. In fact, I think it's what the 110/112 should have been in the first place! It has the same heft as the original and feels just as great in the hand.
BTW do you think any handle material (for example oak, rosewood ...) is less durable or prone to chipping or whatever ... than the other materials?
Glad to hear it! I guess I'll get one drop too.
Mine is oak, but I really don't know whether one material is any more durable than the other.
So I have been using a couple of drop point Buck 110s for a while now. Visually they appeal to me more than the original clip point, but it seems like the blades are a little thicker behind the edge on the drop point versions (based on my perception when sharpening and cutting stuff, not on measurements). I think that in the future, I will forego additional drop points and go back to the clip points when I feel the need to add one to the family.
I do have to say that last year's DLT Trading exclusives (two versions with CPM S35VN drop point blades and Micarta scales, one with stabilized wood) are really, really nice knives (carrying one as a neck knife right now). We all know that the Buck 110 and 112 feel better in the hand in use than . . . everything else . . . but Micarta scales just bump it up a notch.
I asked because of one revieweer on Amazon saying the oak handle on his 110 cracked after a fall (and he recommended to get other material, eg. dymondwood).
If I understand it correctly you're saying that in your experience the original clip points cut better than the newer drop points because of the thicker blade behind the edge?
Yes, given the same blade steels, I find the original clip point blades easier to sharpen to a super sharp, thin edge and they cut better than their counterparts with drop point. I perceive the drop points to be a little thicker near the edge.
Sorry, my experience does not match that at all. I posted the ones I have 10 posts up, post #382. On mine, the edge geometries are identical between clip and drop points, the edge curvature is identical, and they sharpen the same way. The only difference is the blade spine, where one is drop and the other is clip. Holding them side by side, you can't even tell them apart if the spine isn't visible. Really, it's amazing how much of a difference it makes to the overall look and feel from just a minor change to the upper half of the spine.
If you're seeing a difference, I'd guess that might be natural random variation within a margin of error in manufacturing. Especially if they were made in different periods.
And yes, I too am very familiar with the traditional clip point design and found the drop point version a bit awkward to look at initially. But you get used to it quickly enough.
Personally, I still prefer the look of the clip point 110. However, I am starting to warm up to the drop point. I carried a clip point for 3/4 of my life so it may take awhile to get past my affinity for the clip. I realize the drop point is a more robust tip/point, but the classic clip point is just so darn classic. In all my years of daily use, both 110's and 112's, I only snapped one point off, and that was through improper use.
Don't take me wrong, I use my drop point and it's a great EDC lock back, but I find myself grabbing my clip point more often than not, because it's such a familiar old friend.
There's pros and cons with both. Though the drop point may be more durable, the clip point gets into tighter spaces for detail work. It's also a little more stabby, if that matters to you.
You won't go wrong either way. In the time that I've had both blades in 110/112, I've yet to develop a preference for one or the other. Whichever design I happen to be carrying, I like. I've been carrying the drop point 112 this past week but I'll probably change it up today or tomorrow, to what I haven't decided yet.
This is my dad's Alaskan guide edition with the S30V blade and rosewood handle scales.
Don't use it much but I got one
I love mine...
It was gifted to me from a BCUSA member!
So big and solid. I belt carry it in an old (original) Buck leather belt sheath.
I also love the sort of "old penny" smell the metal gives off.
I really like the wood grain / color variation on that one. Beautiful and distinctive.
It's hard to see in the pic but it looks like the markings indicate a 2016 manufacture? Next to the "110" on the blade, is there a dot next to the bracket shape? If so, 2016.
That "old penny" smell is from the copper content of the brass. I used to be one to keep brass and copper polished, if I had it at all. It was only over the past several years that I grew an appreciation for the patina they develop, along with other characteristics like the smell you mention. And then when I did, I initially preferred the more drastic effects on copper. But over time I began to really appreciate the effects on brass. I've turned into a bit of a patina fanatic these days and I agree with you, the brass on the buck is very pleasing.