Hickory board long bow advice

Discussion in 'Archery' started by riokid87, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. riokid87

    riokid87 Scout

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    I was at a box store the other day and found a really straight grained hickory 1x4x6. Really 3/4 x 3.5 x 6.
    So after reading a few how to esp on 3 rivers archery.
    They start w a real 1x. I thought I'd take 2ea 1.5 cuts, tightbond them to make a 1.5 x 1.5, cut that again to make a 1x1.5. Basically a .75 stave w a .25 backing.
    Follow the rest of the 3r initial rough out and tiller slowly.
    Question is iot get the 1" thickness I'm using a .25" backing instead of a .125 inch I see recommended.
    So what would you do w this board?
    Go as stated or go w 1/8 backing and 7/8 thick limbs to start with? 6/8 +1/8
    Also would reducing length from 68 to 66 make up for narrower stave? I'm 66 tall.
    I'm looking for a 40ish lb bow at 27"
    What about a backing? Needed. Fg, silk, what?
    Thanks
     
  2. 3Rotts

    3Rotts Supporter Supporter

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    If I understand correctly, the board is 3/4” thick by 3 1/2” wide and 6 feet long. Yes?

    If so I would just lay out the bow design. Find center for the handle and go 2” above and 2” below. Then roughly another 2” above and below for the fade area. Find center for your tips. Go 1/4” on each side.

    This type of design will give you flex through the handle but will shoot just fine. The second bow I ever made was just this from a hickory board. 3 years later my daughter is still shooting it. It pulls right around 45#@28”.

    Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
    Lee C., Blackhawk45hunter and jasam like this.
  3. ExAF1N1

    ExAF1N1 Purveyor of sharps and savory burnables. Supporter

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  4. JW_Halverson

    JW_Halverson Tracker

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    With .75 inch depth you are just fine. If you have a scrap of some other hardwood as thin as even a quarter inch, you can use that to glue up the handle and fade-out section. THAT applies if you are building a narrowed handle style bow. If you wanna faster build of a more intuitive and simple design, you can dispense with the narrowed handle and built up grip/fade-out and make a bend-through-the-handle design just with what wood you have in hand.

    If I have built one board bow, I have built a hundred. In fact, I have one in my hand right now to use as reference. It is overbuilt in the extreme in design and execution kinda because I was wanting to make something that would last a good long time for the customer. (S.O.B. welshed on payment and here I sit with a bow I don't want or need, but there you have it) Nock to nock, 64" long. Four inch narrowed handle that is 7/8" inch wide and an inch and a half deep. The fade-outs are 2 inches. The design is a straight taper "pyramid" limb with very delicate narrow nocks, just a tad under 2 1/4 inches at the fade outs and less than a quarter inch wide at the nocks.

    I used a chopped off chunk of the same red oak board to glue up on the belly side to get the thickness necessary for handle and fade outs. For the most basic and complete of instructions, my buddy Jawge has been guiding people forever on turning out functional and efficient board bows on his page: http://traditionalarchery101.com/

    If you are having any problems converting words on page to concepts in the head and action for your hands, feel free to gimme a call, Rio. In many ways, I could say I am heartily sick of making bows. Nowadays I get far, far more satisfaction helping someone else figure these things out. Oh, and I will try to post some photos later that might help.
     
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