Knives for the DIY bushcrafter?

Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by MtnClimber69, Feb 10, 2019.

  1. MtnClimber69

    MtnClimber69 Tinder Gatherer

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    Hi all, I have enjoyed putting a handle on knife blanks in the past... now would like to find a good source for high-quality bushcraft and camp styled blades.

    Any suggestions other than Enzo kits from makers who offer to sell nice blanks?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Sefton

    Sefton Supporter Supporter

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  3. MtnClimber69

    MtnClimber69 Tinder Gatherer

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    Thanks Sefton, I will take a look!
     
  4. 08H3

    08H3 God, Family and Freedom Vendor

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    Thanks @Sefton.

    OP, let me know if anything suits your fancy or if ya have a different design in mind
     
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  5. Spork

    Spork Supporter Supporter

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    Rehandle a Mora...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...or build a Puukko

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. victoratsea

    victoratsea Supporter Supporter

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    Ragweed Forge is open again, they have a large selection of blade blanks and fittings.
    Victor
     
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  7. Solphilos

    Solphilos Guide

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    I've found Lauri to be awesome quality blades, especially their progressively tempered ones. Great price on them also.
    If your looking to go old-school, Green River blades are very good as well.
     
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  8. batmanacw

    batmanacw Guide

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    I would definitely look at the PT Lauri blanks. That is how I would go.
     
  9. floogy

    floogy Tracker

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    Lauri blades offer the best value for DIY puukko style knives. They aren't a traditional scandi 0 grind however, they have a secondary bevel. I also have a couple of Old Hickory butchers I'm modding and a Green River sheath blade. I also have a Helle Viking blade that is untouched as of yet.

    It really depends on how much you want to spend.
     
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  10. batmanacw

    batmanacw Guide

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    A zero grind scandi will not hold up to anything but very soft green wood carving. It is basically a myth.
     
  11. 08H3

    08H3 God, Family and Freedom Vendor

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    I've got to disagree with that. If the steel and HT are good they will do alot more than just carve soft woods. Otherwise myself, Brian Sargent and many others wouldn't do scandi grinds or even offer them
     
  12. Red Yeti

    Red Yeti Mostly Harmless Hobbyist Supporter Bushclass I Bushclass II

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    Bushcraft outfitters sells some good blades for adding handles. Worth supporting them..

    :38:
     
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  13. tobiism

    tobiism Supporter Supporter

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    I have to agree with homie on this one. Yes zero scandi grinds are fragile. With quality steel at the right heat treat they can be much less fragile. Doesn't mean you can't end up with edge damage because yes you can. But in my experience 01 tempered at its higher end is very strong compared to 1095. A2 is fantastic for scandi edges. I've used my @Sargent 01 and A2 knives to carve on some seriously hard mesquite and they survived just fine.
     
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  14. MJGEGB

    MJGEGB Guide

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    Sorry friend, my most used fixed blade begs to differ. But you already know that, we've discussed it at length. Yes I have had the edge take on damage, but no more than a secondary of the same angle would take. I've done plenty of work over the years without a secondary and without unusual issues. It's had it's share of chips and rolls, but nothing any other knife with the same final edge angle would not. And that's including a lot of abuse, especially early on with it.
     
  15. Pastor Chris

    Pastor Chris Keeper of the T.Darrah Tenkara Pass-Around Hobbyist Supporter Bushcraft Friend Hardwoodsman Bushclass II

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    I am a fan of Bernie Garland's blanks for a Woodlore style blade. I have handle two of them and they are a solid value IMO
     
  16. floogy

    floogy Tracker

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    The Skookum Bush Tool is a 0 grind scandi. It holds up well from what I've seen. Yeah, Moras have a small micro bevel and the Bushcraft and Garberg have a larger one, but that's because they're general use knives and a scandi is more fragile than others. It would be accurate to say that it's more fragile than most other profiles, but it will hold up if the blade is up to the task. Maybe not an ideal edge for chopping and batoning.

    I wasn't trying to start a debate about grinds, just that the Lauri blades are closer to a saber than a scandi. Which may be better for a general use profile, depending on what you want.

    Clarifying a budget for your project will help narrow your selection. So far we have suggestions for $10 Lauri blades and some for $250+ blades.
     
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  17. batmanacw

    batmanacw Guide

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    I've yet to see any knife hold up well to a zero grind. My 3V Aurora is a zero grind convex. Not far from a Scandi but definitely stronger.

    Try your knife on scooping cuts on rock hard maple with out any damage and I'll take it back.
     
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  18. tobiism

    tobiism Supporter Supporter

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    Scooping cuts on mesquite is one of my test
     
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  19. batmanacw

    batmanacw Guide

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    I'd love to see it. I did an entire thread here on the myth of the zero grind scandi. I'd love to see a 25 degree angle sharpened to a perfect clean edge take any kind of abuse at all. No micro-bevels, no micro-covexes, stropping is fine but not to a convex edge.

    You put a truly tiny 30 degree micro-bevel on it and it will carve like a champ with no ill effects.
     
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  20. batmanacw

    batmanacw Guide

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    From the website:

    Some notes on the so-called "scandi grind" bevel and SBT knives. This type of bevel has superior wood carving characteristics compared to other types of bevels. However, it is more prone to edge rolling (compared to thicker, secondary bevel type bevels) because of the sinuous nature of the bevel if the edge is not prepped properly or is being abused. Steel is just so strong and even CPM 3V will tolerate just so much when you consider how thin the actual cutting edge is. The SBT MK1 leaves my shop with a sharp edge that I finish on the grinder with a well worn 600 grit belt. This edge will shave hair but I do not consider it a working edge just yet. There will most likely be a very fine wire edge remaining, this is especially true with A2. This is where the new owner comes in. When the new knife is received the owner should put the knife to a strop and work the edge until the wire is removed. The more stropping you do the more of a convex edge will occur. This slight convex edge will increase the strength of the actual cutting edge without inhibiting the superior carving of the scandi flat grind bevel ( the amount of convexity created will be very small). Another option is to create a micro bevel by going back to the honing stone, tipping the edge up another 15-20 degrees beyond the bevel face and put ten-fifteen strokes on each side of the edge and go back to the strop. This will give you a stronger general purpose edge. Remember, these are general suggestions, knife makers have no control over the skill levels of the user and their sharpening equipment. The user will need to work out their own program. Also, when sharpening a scandi bevel, make sure you take the individual steps of each grit to completion. We tend to get in a hurry and not finish each step, especially the final steps of honing and stropping. If you follow through with each step and strop until the bevel shines, you will most likely have a very sharp and durable edge that will be the envy of all who see it! So the next time you are having problems with an edge folding over, regardless of make, reassess your sharpening program first before you grab your pitch fork and start poking at the maker. Thanks and happy cutting, Rod

    I consider this be great advice. Very much in line with my thoughts on the matter. I will leave this thread be.
     
  21. Frederick89

    Frederick89 Scout

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    Lauri blades are sharpened to 19-20° inclusive, while the majority of the scandi zero are more in the 25° range.

    Speaking on Finnish factory made blades Polar and Kankanpää (made by Lauri anyway) have, respectively, a considerably smaller secondary and a convexed edge.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
  22. 08H3

    08H3 God, Family and Freedom Vendor

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    Mine generally go to a 23 degree inclusive edge on scandi knives, I've not yet herd one complaint or had to replace any yet and I know more than a few of them have been beat on pretty hard.
     
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  23. MJGEGB

    MJGEGB Guide

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    There you go, big old pile of ossage orange batoned with a Mora Classic # 1. Knots, twists and all.

    [​IMG]Mora by MJGEGB, on Flickr

    This blast from the past is from 5 years ago so before I ever tried stroping or convexed edges. Same knife I used to carve a handle for my new convex Classic #1 lastl week still going strong. Carving a coconut shell will dull the edge pretty quickly however. Nothing major, but it will need to be sharpened afterwards for sure. I wouldn't expect any knife to hold up well to that though.
     
  24. MtnClimber69

    MtnClimber69 Tinder Gatherer

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    =I appreciate the feedback, no real budget in mind. Probably up to $200 is not out of the question.
     
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  25. 08H3

    08H3 God, Family and Freedom Vendor

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    I could get ya a couple good blanks for that, I dont do many much cause its few and far between that actually want to do the finish work but I am more than happy to oblige those willing to....
     
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  26. MtnClimber69

    MtnClimber69 Tinder Gatherer

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    Thanks for the offer I will check out your work and be in touch!
     
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  27. coalsmoke

    coalsmoke Scout

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    You can buy a heck of a custom knife for $200.

    You can buy a heck of a blank to handle for $20.

    I would not spend that kind of money for a blank. Especially when the Lauri blanks are excellent.
     
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  28. Frederick89

    Frederick89 Scout

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    Definatly. 30-40 $ can also buy you a handforged blank from one of the finnish master bladesmiths.
     
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  29. Seahunter

    Seahunter Supporter Supporter Bushclass I Bushclass II

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    http://www.thompsonsknives.com/

    Disston has a great selection for DIYers. They come in an shape you can imagine, but they only offer pretty thing stock.
    DSC_0028.JPG
    DSC_0118.JPG
     
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  30. coalsmoke

    coalsmoke Scout

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  31. MJGEGB

    MJGEGB Guide

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    Where are they selling them for that little? Handling knives is fun :D
     
  32. Seahunter

    Seahunter Supporter Supporter Bushclass I Bushclass II

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    It is one I made from a Disston saw blade. I was trying to what Mors did here:
     
  33. Frederick89

    Frederick89 Scout

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    Directly to customers.
     

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