Discussion in 'T's Custom Outdoor Gear' started by T. Pollock, May 3, 2017.
A little update to the tutorial on orientation.
In post #3 I covered the two different orientations from which a kuksa/bowl can be taken from a log, my preference and the reasons why. I like the grain pattern that results from doing them in the top to bark orientation much better than I do top to pith. So the last dozen or so bowls/kuksa I've done I oriented that way to give it another try. Every single one checked or cracked! I still can not scientifically explain it (wish I could). As much as I like that grain pattern it's not worth it if the piece cracks and you loose all the hard work you've put into the piece. I'm always trying different methods etc. that's the way you learn and improve but I have proven well enough "at least for myself" that for a kuksa top to the pith orientation is the only way to go. Also, the tighter the radius (smaller the log) the more likely it is to crack.
I wish I could explain the reasons why for you guys, all I know is from lots of experience what works and what doesn't for me.
could you provide a photo to further illustrate "top to pith", I think I get your point, but a photo may help the group as well.
Sure, just like the photos in post #3 only instead of bowls as it shows in that photo it would be a kuksa.
Here's the two photos from post #3 showing/explaining the two orientations (top to bark or top to pith) and the resulting grain patterns.
And here's one with notations to make it more clear/better explain.
Sorry for my struggle at times to find the right words to say what I mean.
You can't imagine how much I appreciate this post...I just need more free time to get after it !
You're very welcome brother!
@T. Pollock thanks again brother !
I'm glad I read this thread before I cut a black walnut blank for @CivilizationDropout
You're very welcome brother! Glad it was some help to you.
Due to having severe carpal tunnel and being too stubborn to have surgery, I as most of you know I do the biggest part of mine on the lathe. Only the outside is finish carved by hand to give them the tooled finish.
Still I thought some of you might enjoy seeing these photos of one in the works from the perspective of doing one on a lathe.
Outside after being turned.
Reverse chucked to start hollowing the inside.
A hole has been drilled in the center as a depth guide so I know how deep to go, making sure I don't get the bottom any thinner than the sides.
Carefully checking the wall thickness with a set of calipers. As mentioned earlier in the thread maintaining a consistent wall thickness is crucial to making sure they don't crack from uneven drying.
Filled to the rim with 100% pure Tung Oil.
In these next two photos you can see how the Tung Oil has wept from the inside out through the end grain insuring that the open pores of the end grain are completely sealed with Tung Oil.
The end grain is where wood loses moisture the fastest and where a kuksa will crack 9 times out of 10 if not sealed properly.
this one's river birch - from the tree you and @Broke cut down.
Awesome, that looks great brother!
It tickles me to see photos of things made from trees I personally harvested being used all across the US and occasionally across the pond... I love it!
PS. @Broke is a chainsaw running machine and a super good dude! There's probably photos of that tree being harvested or milled up here somewhere in the Dirt Time In TN meetup threads.