Nessmuk trio

Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by NevadaBlue, Mar 15, 2019.

  1. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    I’m going to need some help here guys. I have never done anything like this before.
    I cut the antler (longer than needed) and sanded off the bumps I didn’t need. That went OK, but OMG bone dust is nasty.
    So, here is what I have now.

    16A97BE8-D673-4645-B816-8C6919A6DAEA.jpeg

    03A375E2-F75F-46EC-B4F6-356C2DEFB4A9.jpeg

    There is a bit more curve to the antler than I wanted, but it feels fine in my hand now. The crown is also offset to one side, but, that works too. I am right handed and will carry this on the left, so the crown will actually be more out of the way.

    I guess the next step is to narrow/taper the tang. One chance at that. Then drill the antler. ONE chance at that for sure. This is it. It must work.

    So, how in the world do I drill this thing? It is hard and the hole will be deep and should actually be more of a slot than a hole. I’m thinking long skinny drill bit (I have some) and drill two parallel holes (as parallel as I can manage). Then somehow work them into a slot. Being several inches deep, that won’t be easy.

    Need some help! o_O
     
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  2. BradGad

    BradGad Supporter Supporter

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    So... where did you get that Nessy blade blank. And what is it?
     
  3. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    @Ronc , did you get your handle drilled out? If so, HOW? :4:
     
  4. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    That was a surprise gift from @Teeps , in a GAW box with a bunch of really nice stuff including a Condor Bushlore! Still grinning...
     
  5. Jonah L. Archer

    Jonah L. Archer ~Roughian #21~ Supporter Bushclass II

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    I'd do it just like you described. Long skinny bit, parallel, and work out the slot with files and picks. Not easy, and definitely time consuming.

    Personally, if you have access to a bandsaw or the patience and skill to hacksaw a straight line, I would saw the antler down the middle and go full tang. Don't saw through the crown, just saw deep enough for the tang and widen the slot with files or sandpaper wrapped around a thin piece of metal. JMO...
     
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  6. BradGad

    BradGad Supporter Supporter

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    Totally not trying to steal your thunder... but looking for a Nessy knife.

    Good luck with your venture. I totally get what you’re saying about a new worthwhile project that is outside your comfort/experience zone.
     
  7. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    Well, I considered that. We really have no idea how the original knife was done, but guess that it was stabbed into an antler. I may just cut the slot. As nasty as it will be doing it, the table saw could slot the antler almost all the way, leaving just squaring the slot at the end... IF I can swing it.
    I have extra antler I can try/test the technique. :33: May give that a try before I taper the tang.
     
  8. Jonah L. Archer

    Jonah L. Archer ~Roughian #21~ Supporter Bushclass II

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    I've never done it, but I've heard the way it used to be done was to have tang tapered down to a point. Soak the antler in water a day or 2 to soften, and then push the tang into it. The middle of the antler softens quite a bit.
     
  9. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    Hmmm, maybe drilling a single, larger hole and then soaking... The curve is a bit too much and I am afraid of splitting the thing. I will be studying this for a while.
     
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  10. Outdoor Dauber

    Outdoor Dauber Roughian #3 Supporter

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    You could go find the other antler too. :D
     
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  11. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    I will be looking for it. ;)
     
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  12. JeffG

    JeffG Scout

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    You'll crack it trying to bend it. I always did. Soaking/boiling only helped with moose palm for me. How about a vertical saw kerf into the antler. Epoxy, pin, and use a file to remove remaining tang. An artificial sinew wrap bolster would finish it. Just free thinking here.

    @Jonah L. Archer had the best solution, right away.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2019
  13. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    Thanks Jeff. No, I won’t try bending. I just meant that the curve is such that trying to fit even a tapered tang in it will come close to the outer layers.
    I like your ideas. The slit and full tang/file is probably the safest for this novice to try.
     
  14. JeffG

    JeffG Scout

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    Sleep on it. You'll come up with something.
     
  15. Red Yeti

    Red Yeti Mostly Harmless Hobbyist Supporter Bushclass I Bushclass II

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    I've done a few like that.

    If you want to do a hidden tang, I would grind it down so the tang is only as long as to include the second hole and narrow enough to adequately surround the hole. Fit the guard on the tang. Then use a drill bit, about the same thickness at the tang with a hand held power drill and drill a hole to correspond to the top of the slot and one to be the bottom of the slot. then poke around some more with the drill bit to remove the material between. I do enough of these that I made a couple skinny little saws for working in this space by grinding down some long coarse jigsaw blades. Helps shape those slot like holes. You can hold them in a vise grip pliers or make a handle. If you use the saws, you can also just drill a larger hole, like 1/4 inch that would be like the center of the tang and then elongate it top and bottom to fit the tang with the saws or files. The inside of an antler is usually softer than the outside.

    Sometimes the process makes a hole in the handle that is a bit larger than needed. It helps in the end to use an epoxy thickener powder that makes it less runny and better for filling any gaps.

    For the cross pin hole. I usually drill the hole in the handle first, and then insert the tang and mark the tang where the hole intersects with drill bit or something. Then drill the tang. In your case, with the hole already in the tang, I would do my best to measure where the handle hole should be. Hold the blade along the side of the handle and mark where the hole is and just drill it. You can elongate the hole in the tang if needed with a rotary tool and a small grinding point.

    I used to make a jig clamped on one side of the blade with a piece of wood on the blade a bit thicker than the handle as a spacer and another piece of wood that extended down past the hole in the tang. You poke a drill through the hole in the tang and drill through the piece of wood. Then use the hole you just drilled in the wood as a guide, slide the handle on and drill through the guide and then through the handle.

    Have fun!

    :38::38:
     
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  16. Staleym

    Staleym Methuselah's Cohort Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    That's a real nice set there Ken! The hatchet is, well adorable. (I know, you don't call an axe adorable, but I'm crazy about axes) I spent all day cleaning, profiling an hanging a full size double bit, that I'll get pictures of and post tomorrow. Looks like you and Paul will have some things to talk about next month in Oregon at the GTG.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019
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  17. bacpacjac

    bacpacjac Queen of the Cups Supporter Bushclass I

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    Very cool project, Ken! Watching and enjoying!
     
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  18. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    Thanks for that Paul. I’m going to try it.
     
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  19. Ronc

    Ronc Tracker

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    Ken, I drill a single hole, or holes, as necessary, a little larger than the tang is in width, then use files and a dremel tool to enlarge it so the tang will fit. It's a lot of work, I know, but the tang will fit snugly and will hold when epoxied in. Looking forward to seeing your completed project! Should be able to start working on mine soon.

    Ron
     
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  20. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    I decided that this little hatchet needs to ride on my ‘tactical’ belt kit. :9: It will go on the traditional setup too, but it does need something to hold it to the belt. I have been looking for a solution and it just solved itself today. I was looking at a magazine pouch that I had. It is worthless for holding anything. It came on a set of ‘stuff’ I got years ago. I turned it around and looked, and sure enough, it will work for the hatchet. I cut the threads that held the bottom of the pouch together and instantly I had a hatchet carrier. Now to make an adaptor to carry it vertically, but that won’t be a big deal.

    B7C12132-C3B3-43A2-ADC8-4237EE939FEF.jpeg

    I’m also going to cut off the handle at the black line and round it. Then I can put the bankline wrap on the handle too. The ‘Marbles’ side of the head will be sharpened for fine work and the other side left ‘fat’ for rougher work.

    7066EE51-A05C-4BB5-A3D4-E974AB952429.jpeg
     
  21. Barry J

    Barry J Guide

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    That is an excellent idea for a hatchet carrier!
     
  22. NevadaBlue

    NevadaBlue —- Roughian #7 -— --- Graybeard -— Supporter Bushcraft Friend Bushclass I

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    This will work. I cut out a chunk of kydex and tried it. Next to drill a few holes in the ends for some ‘security paracord’, some filing and sanding and it is done. Also chopped the handle of the axe. Like it.

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    Now the carrier will work on nearly any Molle attachment point or an ordinary belt.
     
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