Old town tripper xl- worth saving?

Discussion in 'Paddling' started by Boreal Boy, May 10, 2019.

  1. Boreal Boy

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    Came accross this old town tripper xl which is rare up here, just wondering if its slavagable and if it has enough life left in it to make it worth the repairs. I am going to put kevlar skid plates on it and epoxy any gouges that are deep enough to see and white. Thoughts?
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    @riverpirate does this serial number mean anyrhing to you?
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  2. Andy 315

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    Nice score. I am cheap so absolutely I would fix it.
     
  3. Seacapt.

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    Yes, worth saving, looks structurally sound and any damaged seats, thwarts and rails can easily be replaced or repaired. Just make sure the exposed white (FG cloth/roving) is thoroughly dried (free of potential moisture) with hair blower before applying epoxy to it.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2019
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  4. conquerordie

    conquerordie Tracker

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    I agree, a lot of life left in that canoe. Love my Tripper, that XL looks huge! Please post pics as you progress.
     
  5. Boreal Boy

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    Thanks guys. I will start at it today and keep you updated. @Andy 315 i am cheap too so, can make it work. Its gonna be great for the family.
     
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  6. Robedsubset

    Robedsubset Scout

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    Yeah that would make a great “beater” canoe. It’s always nice to have stuff that you don’t mind scratching up a bit.
     
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  7. WisconsinEric

    WisconsinEric Scout

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    20ft Trippers are for players and pimps only. You sure you got game?

    I'm no expert, but it looks as though you already have the right gear to patch her up. Post some pics when you get that boat wet.
     
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  8. Boreal Boy

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    "Pimps and players" you say @wisconsineric..... well then it came to the right place. I got game.

    Beater is just what it is, i agree, nice to have things you dont care about too much.

    Well lets get started the ...
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    Last edited: May 10, 2019
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  9. Boreal Boy

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    Here we go....

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  10. Robedsubset

    Robedsubset Scout

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  11. Boreal Boy

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    Thanks.

    So before going right to her, i wanted to test this epoxy and something as i have never worked with it.
    After initial test i found a ding that need sealing, i dropped some in then gave it a few mineuts to stiffen up a bit. Then i spit in my hand dabbed my finger in it and then smoothed out the epoy. I have used this with many other epoxy and sealants in the aviation world and it works best kind for putting a smooth finish on it. So far it seems to work great with gflex.

    Shes still drying now, i want to see how it cures before i do the rest of the damage areas. Last to pics are after i smoothed it out, still wet. See how it goes.

    Now back to skid plates.
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  12. Boreal Boy

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    Well i dod it... i think.
    Fist time so got a few questions, the felts look right, stuff have that rough texture even though its soaked. Edges are still wet whre i blended it after takung off the tape, that will dry. Felta look soaked enough? Used half my epoxy, need to save the rest for the front.
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  13. Boreal Boy

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    Thinks shes good?
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  14. TomC

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    A few things.

    You can tint g-flex if that's what you want to use. But I would scrounge some green leggos, melt them into a slurry with acetone, and fill the gouges with that. They're both ABS and will marry better than epoxy. I'd show you the repairs to my Bell Chestnut Prospector but they wouldn't be visible enough to see.

    S-glass or E-glass skids would perform better than fuzzy Kevlar.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2019
  15. rbinhood

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    Definitely worth fixing. Looks like you are well on your way. While s-glass or e-glass skid may have less drag, the Kevlar skids that you used will be fine. The Tripper hull is not hydrodynamic enough for you to notice a difference.
    I have a Tripper that I bought over 30 years ago. Still going strong.
     
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  16. Seacapt.

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    Use RustOleum Hunter Green enamel to match.
     
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  17. popedandy

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    Nice job on the skid plate, and yes, that boat still has a few million good miles left in it. It looks like it's just past the break in period LOL
     
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  18. Boreal Boy

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    Thanks for the replies! And confirming my suspicion that there is lots of life left in that canoe.
    Im not worry about the drag from those felts like robinhood said.
    That lego thong soungs interesting... might ask more about that when im done with the other skid plate.
    Green paint.... thats to color match the felts agter its dry?
    Im at the cabin ao not putting other felt on till next week, signal is dodgy at best.
     
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  19. FreeMe

    FreeMe Guide

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    Looks good from here. You know my feelings on kev felt, but it appears you did the job well. If you find that you don't like the rough surface, it can be smoothed with a farrier's file. Careful! Don't gig the vinyl.

    BTW - that paddle shaft repair with Dacron I mentioned.....the redo looks real good. I'll post a dedicated thread when I'm done smoothing and varnishing.
     
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  20. hillst1

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    I use J-B Weld Marine to fill the scratches and gouges.

    upload_2019-5-11_12-20-22.png
     
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  21. TomC

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    Put a few leggos into a glass jar, splash in some acetone, seal jar with lid and wait a day or two. Peanut butter like for large gouges, syrup like for scrapes. Apply like spackle/joint compound smoothing to level with surface to avoid sanding.

    Skids would look better painted to match hull IMHO.
     
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  22. Ephemeral

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    Thank you for that idea.

    I gather that you have actually done this for repairs, and I would ask you, is the repair permanent? Over time does the fill crack or peel out?
     
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  23. TomC

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    You're adding the same basic material that was originally there -ABS - unlike epoxy.

    I repaired this particular canoe a good number of years ago and you'd have to look very hard to find them. Most of the lakes and rivers around here have scratchy bottoms so there are new scrapes with every excursion but I have yet to repair the repairs. I haven't heard any complaints from the owners of the others repaired with this method except for the color difference. The green leggos match the green canoe very well, the red is a bit off. But if you keep the open side up who will notice? ;)
     
  24. Boreal Boy

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    @TomC and after you appl it, the acetone evaporates at the abs cures?
    Great tip, thanks!
     
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  25. Boreal Boy

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    @hillst1 good call, i will pi j some up to compare to the lego repairs.
     
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  26. roadwarrior

    roadwarrior Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I have a regular tripper and the thing is awesome. I bought it in 1986 new. That canoe is one sweet beast and worth every penny of saving it.
     
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  27. FreeMe

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    I know at least one other person who has done this with red and green legos, with good success. I tried it with light blue legos, and the acetone wouldn't melt the blocks. No idea what the deal is with that.

    I have used J-B Weld, and that works, but doesn't match many canoes. I usually use Gflex with a little graphite powder mixed in, because Gflex is somewhat flexible when cured. Those patched gouges are also holding.
     
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  28. Boreal Boy

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    @FreeMe the gflex works good for repairs, although i wish i had the other stuff that is partial hardend and cures fater for small repairs. With the lego thing, so the acetone evaporates and the platic cures?
     
  29. FreeMe

    FreeMe Guide

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    That is what my friend Matt tells me.

    For small quick curing patches, I have used J-B Quick Weld. The J-B products cure hard though, not flexible.
     
  30. Riverpirate

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    This is an XL Tripper from 2004. This is a 20’ Tripping Canoe made out of Royalex. We sold it for $2,200 Retail back in 2014.

    Thank you for saving it.
     
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  31. Boreal Boy

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    I dont thing that is an issue for small repairs.
     
  32. Boreal Boy

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    Thank as always for the information
     
  33. Boreal Boy

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    I put the second skid plate on (the front) last night. It had a hole that i cleaned up before putting the plate on, took excess damaged plastic off and opened up before i hit it with epoxy. Front came out better than rear, had a fire in the shed, it was warm and epoxy was much more "workable" than the last time. I was able to smooth the felts out with the saliva technique, really smoothed it down well, althoughmy tape job wasnt too good, left to big a gap between edge of felts and masking rape. 20190512_212917.jpg 20190512_212907.jpg 20190513_234858.jpg 20190512_222720.jpg
     
  34. Boreal Boy

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    I got the lego and acetone, will try that out soon and let you know.
     
  35. FreeMe

    FreeMe Guide

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    Hasn't been for me where I've used it.
     
  36. Boreal Boy

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    What now?
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  37. Boreal Boy

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    Shes going...
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  38. Boreal Boy

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    Ok, so i have been busy trying a few different ways of sealing/filling in damage and deep scrapes and gouges. But, before i start i just want to say that it is not my intention to try and polish this babay up to look like new and put it up on a shelf. Dont worry boys i will be adding scrapes of my own, i will be sailing her down the gander river soon enough. I simply want to seal all deep scrapes, gouges and damage.
    I know little about repairing plastic boats so i am having a little fun with this trying different things.
    So far i used gflex for a larger damage area, it works great for that, there is prep time with taping off area and all that and i was able to smooth off the edge well with saliva but cant figure quick good ways to use on smaller stuff. For that i like the "lego bond" at first i used a thicker slurry with a puddy knife, worked great, nice and smooth finish but its a bit messy but, smooth. I then started usinga thinner slurry and filling in gouges a few times and again, in one spot there was a bunch together so i brushed it over to get a nice consistent smoothness. Only problem is it left a visible sheen and stands out. I did find that the puddy knife privides a smoother finish than the tooth pick and thin slurry! So of i didnt care about the shinny patches all over her, that would be a good way to go. in Still not sure where this is going.


    Puddy knofe before/after brush 20190517_195625.jpg 20190517_201135.jpg
     
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