Polar, Lauri, Brisa

Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by GoKartz, Aug 10, 2018 at 5:36 AM.

?

Which blade maker should I pick?

  1. Lauri

  2. Brisa

  3. Polar

  4. Other - I'll explain below

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  1. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic Supporter

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    Howdy folks,

    I'm looking at picking up a stick-tang blade or two (or three...) to make my first knife. I'm still going back and forth between birch bark, birch, and stacked leather for the handle... Anyways, I'm trying to decide on a blade from one of the three listed makers - Polar, Lauri, and Brisa, all which seem to run in the $10-20 range.

    Anyways, I have no experience with any of them. I've heard a little about the Lauri PT blades - mostly that they're used in the Kellam Wolverine, which is supposed to be excellent. Any of y'all have experience with any of these makers? Would you recommend one over the other?

    Look forward to hearing what y'all say. I'd appreciate any suggestions, but if you start suggesting non-stick tangs or significantly more expensive blades it'll be less helpful for me. :)

    Thanks!

    GK
     
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  2. Youcantreadinthedark

    Youcantreadinthedark Amphibian. Supporter Bushclass I

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    I've worked with all of those, and they're all fine choices. I seem to remember brisas being a little over the 10-20 dollar rangs, though.
    You'll need to anneal the tangs. I have successfully beaten Lauri peens into submission without annealing it (back when I didn't know what annealing meant), so if you're hot to trot, that's at least an option. My favorites are Lauris but they involve significantly more work fitting bolsters than the polars. I'd look at the Enzo black beavers, too, especially if you can find one with a threaded tang and a nut to fit.
     
  3. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic Supporter

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    Thanks for the input! I have a little kitchen blow torch thingy that I thought might be able to anneal the tangs. Why do Lauris require more work wit hate bolsters? The Brisa I was thinking about was the carbon Farmer 90 for $22; I saw the Black Beaver, but I didn't know they came with a threaded tang! That would be convenient.
     
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  4. Dadio

    Dadio Supporter Supporter Bushclass I

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    Ive used Lauri and Polar, both with good results. Needle files, even cheap ones, work great for the brass fittings.
     
  5. hillst1

    hillst1 Scout

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    Lauri makes the Polar blades for Brisa. I prefer the Polar because the ricasso is not ground into the tang making it easier to fit the bolster.

    [​IMG]
    Lauri

    [​IMG]
    Polar
     
  6. coalsmoke

    coalsmoke Scout

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    I have used a couple of the Lauri blades and they are excellent blades. Real workhorses.

    This is one of my all-time favorite knives. The bamboo handle is very comfy.

    IMG_20160912_113442857.jpg
     
  7. Youcantreadinthedark

    Youcantreadinthedark Amphibian. Supporter Bushclass I

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    The bevels are ground past the ricasso and into the tang, meaning you have to shape the actual tang to fit a bolster properly. I much prefer the blade edge to meet the bolster, so it's worth the extra work, but it's something to be aware of.
     
  8. saxonaxe

    saxonaxe Scout

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    I am not familiar with the other blades that you list, but I made my knife using a 7 inch Lauri blade. It's my usual woods knife and I can vouch for the quality of the blade. I don't batton the knife, I carry a Hawk or small hatchet and a folding saw, but it does virtually everything else and for the price I think the Lauri blade was a bargain and a good choice for my knife.

    The handle is a piece of dried Ivy (Hedera Helix) which I simply drilled to the depth of the stick tang, filled the hole with marine grade epoxy and set the tang into the hole. As it does not protrude beyond the wood I did not need to peen tang.The bolster is a piece of brass plate cut to size.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    To complete the knife, I removed the black finish from the blade and Teak oiled the Ivy handle.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. renter6

    renter6 Guide

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    I've made a couple of knives like this, one Lauri PT and two of the Polar blades. Its a really fun project and you'll end up with a really serviceable knife on your hip!

    I like the blade shape on the Polars, I've made a whittler (which isn't a very good whittler) and one of the 95 mm blades. The edge holding on the PT blades branded Lauri is superb though. None of these can support an edge without a little bit of a secondary bevel, the bevel angles are just too steep, but the PT blades come the closest and don't require much of a secondary bevel to stay sharp. They are awesome.

    I don't need all that belly on the Lauri blades, I don't hunt, but you find a use for it.

    Lastly have you checked out Thompson Knife Supply? Shipping is cheaper and he has a lot of the same blades in stock, a little bit less of a selection. Worth a look.
     
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  10. hillst1

    hillst1 Scout

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    Brad Jarvis from Thompson Knife Supply will order anything you need from Brisa. He has ordered sheaths and other items he normally does not carry.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2018 at 8:22 AM
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  11. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    Brisa Ltd, dba "BRISA," is a retailer which sells products made by many companies, including blades made by Polar and Lauri and blades branded "BRISA."
    Lauri has a great rep, as does Polar. Polar blades cost more. Both are got up into knives by reputable makers. According to BRISA:
    "Polar
    Upgrade from the Lauri knife blades. Carbon steel HRC 59 C-0,81 Mn-0,56 S-0,004 P-0,01 Si 0,35 V-0,161 Cr-0,54 Stainless: C-0,479 Si-0,37 Mn-0,38 Ni-0,09 Cr-14,53 Mo-0,51 P-0,019"
     
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  12. Youcantreadinthedark

    Youcantreadinthedark Amphibian. Supporter Bushclass I

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    I have no affiliation with him, but if I'm buying knife supplies I'm buying them from this guy. He's great to deal with.
     
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  13. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    That has been my experience too.
     
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  14. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic Supporter

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    Good input guys!
     
  15. rh80

    rh80 Scout

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    Agreed,still great as a sabregrind
     
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  16. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic Supporter

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    Woah so you’re telling me that even though they’re Finnish they’re not scandi grind?! @TAHAWK ;)
     
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  17. rh80

    rh80 Scout

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    Pretty much....and damn us brits for the scandi terminology
     
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  18. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    >Finns are not "Scandinavian."
    >BritishBlades.com, now defunct, seems to be the original source, a few years ago as these things go, of the "Scandi Grind" myth - that is, that a low saber, flat grind with no secondary bevel is the customary and traditional grind in Nordic countries. Their Scandi Forum mod, a custom maker from Norway, tried to tell them; they would not listen; he quit.
    > Once "Scandi" became, like "tactical," a sales force, all sorts of grinds got called "Scandi." So, today, you need a good picture to tell what your getting.
    > All those makers using secondary or convex or high bevels, like the seven official Master Puukko Makers (Puukkoseppämestari) of Finland, do so for reasons they think proper. But, I guess, you can tell them they don't know what they're doing. Many makers will make what you want or at least give it the name you are seeking. It's business. Others sigh and go on making what they believe best, like rhomboid "Tommi" puukot, which have no sort of saber grind whatsoever.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018 at 12:36 AM
  19. rh80

    rh80 Scout

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    Lets call them Fennoscandia grinds
     
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  20. Elgatodeacero

    Elgatodeacero Tracker

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    You cant go wrong with the Lauri blades. For a small knife the Lauri 42mm blade is the best handling, and for a medium blade the Lauri 95mm blades are best for me.

    I also like the Lauri 105mm blades but they have weird shaped tang and it is not going to be possible for me to get a good bolster to blade fit.

    I buy Lauri blades and bolsters from Ragweed Forge, and exotic handle wood from Brisa.

    Shaped bolsters (which allow you to have the sharp part of blade start at the bolster) makes for the best handling knife to me. I do not care for a blade with a ricasso (I love the Mora Garberg, but they should have deleted the ricasso).

    Shaped bolsters are a little more time consuming to fit, but dont be concerned with perfect fit. Just make a knife.
    My experience is that no one except the maker sees the many flaws, most people just see a cool looking knife.

    Some advice to aspiring knife makers...... order at least 3-4 blades, and one or two extra bolsters for a practice bolster. You will want to make several knives, and the shipping is basically free when you order 4 or 6 or 10 blades (did I say 6-10?). Same for exotic handle wood.

    Pro tip - the Lauri carbon 42mm blade, bare with no handle, is perfect for an Altoid tin knife. The fit is perfect, the blade is around 6 bucks. It can be used without a handle, wrapped in cord, dipped in rubberizer, or fitted with slim wood handle and bolster.

    I would skip the birch bark handle for a bit, unless you have some craftsmen skills. Have fun, it is very satisfying to make your own tools.

    ! Warning, you will not save any money making your own knives and sheaths.
     
  21. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    "Lets call them Fennoscandia grinds"

    :D

    ... or genuine, authentic, hand-made, tactical, battle-ready, Wow! You would know as much.
     
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  22. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    "Lauri Carbon Knife Blades - Finland

    Finnish high quality Thyssenkrupp carbon steel blades.
    Traditional Scandi grind with a small secondary bevel. "

    A.G. Russell says a Scandi" can be hollow ground.
     
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  23. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    Sold as "Scandi grind." Beckoscandi?
    [​IMG]
     
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  24. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    "For hunting and fishing, a hollow-ground knife is usually best, while for whittling sticks and branches, a convex-ground knife is recommended."
    Brusletto $ Co. AS, Geilo, Norway, 1896 - date. Heresy everywhere. Even at Brusletto.
     
  25. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic Supporter

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    And if you listen to that guy in charge of BRKT he’ll tell you HE is the one who pioneered the use of convex knives.
     
  26. renter6

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    Thanks for this!

    A little while back I was on a kick buying used EKA folders (to re-handle them), the first one I got was the Big Swede and I spend hours grinding away the saber grind/secondary bevel so that I had just a single flat bevel on each side, with 12C27 steel. And I wondered why the edge folded and fell apart on first use! My knife education really began at grade dork.
     
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  27. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    The proponents of "Scandi" always sound positive. But I kept acquiring Nordic knives, and not one in ten was a low saber, flat grind with no secondary bevel . So I asked the BritishBlades subforum mod, "Trond" [Pedersen IIRC], what was up. He explained that the "Scandi" was a very specialized grind seldom used in the Scandinavian countries and hardly ever in Finland, which fit what I was seeing. It was avoided, he explained, since felt to be too fragile for all-around woods work. (I ended up with two of his custom knives - both with lowish, very slightly concave primary grinds and small convex secondary grinds - light sabers.. :)) [​IMG]

    One of his blades, made into a knife by anther guy, is posted now on another forum as a "scandi" - secondary bevel and all. :cool:
     
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  28. TAHAWK

    TAHAWK Guide

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    I have discussed it with him, and that is emphatically not what he said then. Convex edges, at least, are the natural result of free-hand sharpening, so millennia old.

    Where does he say such a silly thing?
     
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  29. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic Supporter

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    I must be mis-remembering then. I seem to recall hearing him talk about how more people in the knife industry today are moving towards convex as a do-all grind, where for years he was criticized for being the oddball. Maybe he used the word championed, or maybe it was just in reference to pioneering the use of convex in regards to the modern knife industry. I seem to recall he got a lot of flack "back in the day" for using convex grinds, so maybe it was just a response to that.
     
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