Question about Lansky type sharpening systems.

Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by boomchakabowwow, Aug 12, 2018.

  1. boomchakabowwow

    boomchakabowwow Guide

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    Thinking of adding one to my arsenal. Couple of reasons. I think it’s a safer way to touch up broad heads.

    And it seems like the better option for black coated blades. Me with a free-hand stone would wander into the black more often than not.

    Here is the que: the sharpening angle. It can’t be accurate with blades of various heights. Let’s take some extremes as an example. A Chinese cleaver. It’s 4” tall. No way the 20 deg hole will give you 20.

    I know pethgoreans theorem. :).

    Over thinking this?
     
  2. Bob_Spr

    Bob_Spr Guide

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    I have the diamond hones and use them on everything. With the slide having a 6 inch long working area, a 4 inch wide blade is stretching it. But with a piece of coat hanger, I can extend it. That said, a cleaver would probably use a 30 deg angle which is no problem. Neither was the 25. The 20 would be trickier. I think the magic of the Lansky is the consistent angle.
     
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  3. mtngunr

    mtngunr Scout

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    It has its limitations, have used one for, indunno, 30yrs? Handles thin full grind blades such as pocket knives, with no problem.

    Move to thicker flat or full convex blades and you best check edge centering from a view at point. Only really works on blades with true flats. Notice the word TRUE. Handforged rarely are square, and you will find yourself doing an uneven sharpening, where you might need 20 on one side, and 30 on the other to maintain existing angle.

    Has limitations in reach, which means the further the stroke gets, the more acute the angle, and this applies to all gizmos with a fixed guide. On longer blades, be prepared to move the clamp up and down blade for each working over of full length, and for each grit.

    Grit becomes embedded in clamp jaws, so run a strip of masking tape in areas where clamp will be tightened. You will not tighten enough sooner or later, and the shifting clamp will for sure sand your blade, and even through tape if you do not catch it.

    Be aware that how deep you clamp the blade also effects angle, providing quite a bit of adjustment, which is good, and variation, which is bad. So, pay attention where clamped for next time, or, take notes.

    Before you commence to use a stone, if you are wanting to dupe existing edge, degrease finest stone and apply a layer of tape, blacken edge with a black marker, and check where blacking rubbed off, and adjust angle and/or seating depth on blade to match what is there....

    Again, be prepared to move clamp to maintain those angles....
    Very easy beginner mistake is to tighten towards back of blade, and cheerfully apply a very blunt angle to back of blade, and very fragile thin and deep edge to front while sharpening. And once you start grinding into upper shoulder of edge, no way to keep it pretty unless you keep going.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2018
  4. boomchakabowwow

    boomchakabowwow Guide

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    thanks for the great info!!
     
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  5. DPris

    DPris Guide

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    I found it cumbersome, went with whetstones & the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
    Denis
     
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  6. mtngunr

    mtngunr Scout

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    Pretty much any guided gizmo will have these same quirks, and why I have not bought into the any number of far more expensive, like 10 times more expensive, things to come along since.

    I CANNOT be the first one to notice what has gone on while using one, and TRUST ME, I discovered every bit of it through doing it to my own knives, several to my great regret, such as that thinner edge out front on several irreplaceable knives in past years, such as thick, heavy survival knives where weaker edge at tip the exact opposite of what is wanted.

    Anyhow, the post is meant to save anyone else, using any guided gizmo, some of that later disgust with self when years later looking over one of those "how could I be so dumb!" sharpening efforts. Once you do it, there ain't no puttin' it back.

    Will also add, after using whatever stones on a Lansky, I hand strop on a rouge dressed strop to remove burrs...if your knife is not sharp sharp when done, it will be because of crap steel, OR needed more time on Lansky to totally clean up edge, and/or still detectable burr if you look hard enough....strop more, first, and if still not there, THEN go back to the Lansky. The world is full of folk do all manner of premature sharpening wear to blades due to burrs. Dragging backwards on smooth cereal box cardboard will show a smooth side (last stoned), and the burred side from burr bent over...strop until both side precisely same smooth...close will not cut it, literally and figuratively.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2018 at 3:27 PM
  7. mtngunr

    mtngunr Scout

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    And I found those Sharpmakers variable, imprecise, not repeatable to degree required, far more subject to user error or bad hair day, and generally for the same folk who formerly used electric knife sharpeners in the kitchen (which was the origin of company, a new wonder sharpener for kitchen and home! before ever a knife) and same problems, and so I went with the Lansky.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2018 at 10:06 PM

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