School me on 80CRV2

Discussion in 'Edged Tools' started by Mr. Tettnanger, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. Mr. Tettnanger

    Mr. Tettnanger Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I just picked up a used MP Classic with 80CRV2 steel. I'm not sure that this knife is going to stay home with me or continue on its journey in the wild. It is a neat BRUTE of a knife!

    What can you tell me about this steel? Is it strong? Is it a stainless variety? I really don't know anything about it!

    9F57A6AF-D64D-461C-8427-020C20FA3E17.jpeg
     
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  2. Monkeynono

    Monkeynono Supporter Supporter

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    Non stainless, Matt's heat treat is really good. Will take a scary edge, will handle abuse well, I haven't tried to beat it through something like a chain link, but I have smashed it through some really hard and knotty wood.
     
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  3. J. Pierce

    J. Pierce Perpetually Off Topic, Sorry. Supporter

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    Like monkeynono said, not stainless.
    I have an MP in this steel also.
    I assume it is a low carbide steel, it takes a very fine edge and holds up well. Maybe similar to 52100 in that aspect? It's always dangerous to compare two steels that way, but I'm just trying to give you something to go on.

    Mine is a smaller puukko so I can't comment on toughness, and for the way I use knives toughness is low on my list of concerns.

    The short version, I've been very pleased with mine.
     
  4. Creaky Bones

    Creaky Bones Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I remember when Matt switched from 1095 to 80crv2. It’s tough stuff.
     
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  5. GoKartz

    GoKartz Sharpaholic

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    Hi Mr T. - 80CRV2 is a really fun steel. It forges well, which is why you often see it in forged knives. (O1 is easy to heat treat really well, which is why it is often used by home-smiths.) I would say it is pretty similar to O1. 80CRV2 is a little tougher, but also dulls a little quicker than O1. Both sharpen pretty easily, both take a very keen edge, and both - if done right - make excellent knives. Personally, I really like that O1 and 80CRV2 aren't chippy and are easy to sharpen. The 80CRV2 knives I've owned have gotten sharper than the O1s I've owned, but the 2 80CRV2 knives I've owned had VERY different geometries than the O1s, so that may not be from the steel.

    Anyways, all that to say... I like 80CRV2. If I was a blade smith and was looking to forge a knife, that's probably where I'd start. I have a puukko blade in 80CRV2 sitting on my counter waiting for a handle, and that thing pops hairs. :):):):):):):):):)
     
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  6. seasonofthewoods

    seasonofthewoods Lost In the Woods Supporter

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  7. Phantom X

    Phantom X Jack-of-all-trades Vendor Supporter Bushclass I

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    My absolute favorite steel. I believe its a modified spring steel. I have 80CrV2 from MP, Gossman, Wenger, Malanika, 2 Arrows and I'm making a knife out of it as well.

    It takes a fantastic edge and it lasts. it has been fairly stain resistant in my uses, but I don't use it on food.

    Matt and Scott have both done a good bit of testing with it. Both have botoned steel with it I believe.



    20180915_130305.jpg
     
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  8. Crusher0032

    Crusher0032 Appalachian Arthfael Supporter

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    I have a Skrama which uses this steel and it is tough. It's been used to knock out chunks of fatwood with no edge chipping at all which is saying something. That stuff can be like a cross between steel and glass to a blade.
     
  9. nograveconcern

    nograveconcern Supporter Supporter Bushclass I

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    Simple carbon steel at .8 percent with a little extra summ'n summ'n over regular 1080. Tuff, easy to sharpen, fine edge, average wear resistance, rusts like non stainless.

    I'm a big fan of Matt's work and what he does with 80crv2.
     
  10. americanstrat98

    americanstrat98 Wanderer Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    ^What these guys said. I have three knives in this steel and they all perform very similarly to 01, except they don't chip easily and they dull just a bit quicker. Excellent hard use steel in my eyes.

    Sweet knife by the way. Love the blade shape paired with that type of handle.
     
  11. Mr. Tettnanger

    Mr. Tettnanger Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I appreciate the information fellas. Thank you!
     
  12. Gruntinhusaybah

    Gruntinhusaybah Hobbyist Hobbyist Supporter Bushclass I

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  13. mtngunr

    mtngunr Scout

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    80CrV2 is an improved tougher spring steel over 5160...my favorite leuku is made of this, and it was tested prior to shipping for ability to chop, carve, and drill moose antler, and then still slice paper.

    It is far cleaner and finer grained than 5160, with improved toughness at higher hardness, as well as abrasion resistance. The chromium increased edge retention and retards rust in comparison to plain unalloyed 1095, but only an improvement, and no rust proofing at all.

    It is a VERY good non-stainless for hard use knives, and actually among the very best for such.

    Caveat, IF heat treat is proper. If you tire of that knife, you give me a holler.
     
  14. Frederick89

    Frederick89 Scout

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    I've just finished carving a sugar spoon, from one year seasoned silver fir, with a a puukko in 80CrV2, tempered to 62 HRC, 19° inclusive with just a hair of microbevel. The edge is absolutely pristine and still hair popping sharp. The maker is probably the same that forged @mtngunr leuku: I think I recognize the tests.
     
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  15. JasonJ

    JasonJ Guide

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    Nothing else to say about it that hasn't been said. Tough, tougher than 5160, O1, or 1095.

    My only two knives in this steel are the Terava knives... I wish I had more. A hatchet or small axe in this steel tempered to a lower HRC would be pretty sweet.
     
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  16. mtngunr

    mtngunr Scout

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    Some of the most respected ABS names with MS after those names are discovering 80CrV2 and moving to it, over 5160 for "failure is not an option" knives, after doing their own reduction forging, tempering, and destructive tests on finished blades..some may see no need of a change for many buyers, but the steel is superior, without a doubt.
     
  17. FreudianSlip

    FreudianSlip Guide

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    a have a Lauri leuku and a SH puukko in that steel it holds up really well. It doesn’t seem impressively rust resistant to me. I had some rust on it after cleaning some trout with my Puukko.
     
  18. Area FiftyOne

    Area FiftyOne Tracker

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    AA Forge has been using 80CrV2 in their line for a while. I like 5160 and 80CrV2 even better for carbon steel knives.
     
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  19. MichaelBear

    MichaelBear Bushmaster Hobbyist

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    It's sharp. It's Matt Paul knife. You'll love it ;)
     
  20. Coryphene

    Coryphene Guide

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    If you manage to break it, it is most certainly your fault. 80crv2 is some crazy tough stuff! Lauri uses it in all their stuff including the PT line (harder edge softer spine). Lauri makes the Kellam Wolverine, Kellam Puukko, Lauri blanks, and Terava blades both large and small.
     
  21. nograveconcern

    nograveconcern Supporter Supporter Bushclass I

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    Yeah it certainly will rust from what I've seen. I took @mtngunr 's comment to mean the improvement in corrosion resistance is only a very very small one.
     
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  22. Muskett

    Muskett Scout

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    I've beaten the heck out of my Skrama and its held up well. Its still in one piece which is always a good sign. Of the two nicks I've put in the blade's edge then thats from hitting metal at full whack. The edge lasts a days worth of work if not longer, light work then weeks. Easy to get back to evil sharp.
    Now these and the Terava range are made in batches of two to three hundred at a time and made to a price...bargain.

    If I leave one outside in the damp grass overnight, or a few days, then the rust shows. Rust and resin from the work take a scotchbrite scouring pad to remove. No big deal.
    Leave in the shed for a few weeks from a stupid super keen sharpen then a wipe over a strop is needed to return to best. I get this with any carbon non stainless as any moiture in the air will get a reaction that takes the ultimate edge off over time. Doesn;t help that my shed isn't bone dry. A dollop of oil or wax helps, candle wax will do.

    I'm impressed with the steel and can live with the maintenance. This steel is for work.

    Now a custom maker making the design you want would be a joy in this steel. If is not going to be a drawer queen then a worked blade should take on a patina that will show its history. Will after a while look like some heirloom, something from the past. I quite like that look.
    If you are looking for something pretty that will look the same ten years down the line then a more stainless steel would probably be better. Anything you want to give grief on then this steel is a fine choice.
     
  23. mtngunr

    mtngunr Scout

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    That is correct. I have an unproven assumption that if high grade Euro 80CrV2 is used, AND it heat treated properly, AND it a cleaner steel as is Euro, AND it finer grained as is the steel in comparison to 1095 and 5160, .....THEN, rust will be less a problem as for deep scale and pitting, and it generally be prone to lighter surface coats of rust, rather than being put out of commission by a deeply pitted edge out in the boonies.

    When wilderness guides in Finland use the stuff, you kinda figure it holds up good enough to get someone through several weeks of a rough life, even away from best of care or environment.
     
  24. TStilwell

    TStilwell Supporter Supporter

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    In my estimation it is way tougher than 5160, and will hold an edge as well as or better than O1.
    It will rust pretty dang quick.
    If done right, and I’m certain Matt’s is, it will be dang near impossible to break under extra normal use.
    It is a German steel predominantly used in sawing and ripping type, and shearing operations. It’s got good carbon, vanadium and other spices to add good flavor. I liked to leave it a bit harder than normal for most applications due to its toughness, it can stand it, and it gets better edge retention at the higher hardness.
    I tried to break my test blade in use, man I tried, I left it almost as hard as it came from the quench, and it still bent almost 45 degrees before it broke.
     
  25. S.Gossman

    S.Gossman Guide Vendor Supporter

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    @Mr. Tettnanger trust me, you'll like it. It's tough, holds an edge well and is a great simple carbon steel. I harden and temper mine to 59/60.
    Scott
     
  26. BradGad

    BradGad Supporter Supporter

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    62 HRC? Dang. Bet that’s going to be fun to sharpen.

    The hardest I’ve had was 61 on some old Puma folders. They weren’t too bad because of the rather extreme hollow grind. I wouldn’t look forward to having to remove metal across all the flat bevel of a 62 HRC scandi.

    But, then, you said it has a bit of micro bevel. I guess if you avoid knicks and just have to touch up the micro bevel it wouldn’t be bad.
     
  27. Frederick89

    Frederick89 Scout

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    Resharpening is not an issue actually. I really like 80CrV2 the most at its higher hardness, since it gets an edge holding comparable to 52100 at same geometry and hardness, still being quick to resharpen. I keep my puukkos stropped, unless there are chips requiring stones.
     
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  28. Gruntinhusaybah

    Gruntinhusaybah Hobbyist Hobbyist Supporter Bushclass I

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    I picked up a bar of 3/16" x 2 1/2" to make some big beasts from...
     
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  29. Ptpalpha

    Ptpalpha Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    My buddy just built a forge and is learning to make stuff out at his farm. Yesterday he sent me a pic of the knife he made for me out of 80crv2:
    IMG_20180918_052149.jpg
    Depending on his heat treatment, it looks like it has potential. Obviously needs a few sessions with the files, but I think it's a good start!
     
  30. House of Horst

    House of Horst Have knife, will travel Supporter

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    RMJ Tactical just switched most of their tomahawks over to 80CrV2 for this reason. ;)
     
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  31. FreudianSlip

    FreudianSlip Guide

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    AA4C0AAC-F7C6-4C42-8433-C379D9BAA80A.jpeg 53DDFC5D-F8EB-4D12-91CA-C498D42888A0.jpeg Here are my two knives in this steel.
     
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  32. riokid87

    riokid87 Tracker

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    My concern is the heat treatment. This is more than quenching and tempering. It includes reaching the right temp to forge w/o creating stress fractures and post forging normalization to reduce grain size.
    Bottom line: to get steel at it's full potential requires a means to controll temperature. Without that you are better off to stick to 1080/84 purchased in an anneiled normalized state and use stock removal to shape the knife. Most steels need to be heated beyond their hardening temp To forge them. After that you must normalize them To reach full potential. To get 1080/84 to its full potential is better than another steel at say 85%of its potential. Just my opinion.
     
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  33. Coryphene

    Coryphene Guide

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    80crv2 is often referred to as 1080+ because it is so similar. It is well known as being easy to forge and very forgiving on heat treating. Some steels need extremely specific heating and quenching times and temps and some aren't as picky to produce an excellent blade. 80crv2 and 15n20 are both 2 that are cheap, easy to forge, and easy to heat treat. It really is a great beginner steel.
     
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  34. riokid87

    riokid87 Tracker

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    Concern is normalizing after forging and 80crv2 needs a 10 minute soak while 1080/84 does not to get optimum results.
     
  35. Gruntinhusaybah

    Gruntinhusaybah Hobbyist Hobbyist Supporter Bushclass I

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    Where did you get that from?
     
  36. riokid87

    riokid87 Tracker

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    Several blade maker forums and one tech data site I can't find now. I was reading up on a couple weeks ago.
     

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