I saw a lovely image of an awl and sheath on this site while researching awls. Found something I really liked on this thread. https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/bark-canoe-awl.15643/ . I decided to make my triangular awls a bit longer for boring holes in two layers of Poplar (Liriodendron Tulipifera) bark, for making Appalachain bark baskets. I picked up more than enough old saw files from Ed's Vintage Tool Shop, so if anyone want's to try it out PM me and I'll send you one annealed if you want. Step 1 annealing Heating them up not too hot and allowing them to cool slowly. Then we made a drift by bashing a larger triangular file into the molten block of steel. Then we bashed the hot files into the drift with a 2 person hammering technique. Flattening the ridges out a bit only for the first few inches. Larry held the hot file in the V groove with a flat hammer laid on top and I bashed the hammer he was holding. Couldn't shoot that cause my hands were busy and I forgot my tripod. A fun process the technique requires accurate sledge hammering in a motion that falls vertically rather than in an arc. My friend Larry made the first awl using a power hammer and then bending around 2 rods in a jig on his big anvil. Even though we annealed the steel there is a lot of carbon in file steel so it remains quite hard. Larry thought I wouldn't need to temper them for the work I would be using them for. The scale is actually the carbon coming out of the steal so it's super hard, so then we cleaned off the scale and tried to sharpen it on his awesome belt sander, but the handle got in the way a bit. So we decided to anneal and bash the 7 more that I could finish and sharpen at home. Once home I carved out a wooden jig to hold the file level so I could file it. Dang those files were still really hard. I worked on my file technique till all my files were dull. Peter Ross a local black smith friend of Roy's told me that it's very important to practice filing level and get really good at it. I've tried to do this ever since. I have wooden jigs for my axe and hatchet heads that gets the bevel I want close to level. So then I put my ear muffs back on and went to my old wood belt sander upside down grind method, then to the Worksharp 3000 with 150 grit, then a washita (400), and knock the burr off with a surgical black, then polish on the worksharp with 1500. decided not to strop cause you cant really strop something with 2 edges. Right?