WTB - WTT for Farrier's Rasp/Files

Discussion in 'Supporter's Trade Blanket' started by Luzster, Aug 12, 2018 at 9:49 PM.

  1. Luzster

    Luzster Of course your opinion matters, just not to me... Supporter

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    Evening.

    Looking for a rasp/file(s) that I can use to try my hand at making a knife out of. Not really familiar enough with files to pick one out at a flea market that would be good enough steel, god brand, etc. to use.

    Whatcha got?
     
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  2. Youcantreadinthedark

    Youcantreadinthedark Amphibian. Supporter Bushclass I

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    You're shooting to make a rhombic?
     
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  3. Kurt992

    Kurt992 Guide Lifetime Supporter Bushclass II

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    I would consider hitting garage and estate sales in older neighborhoods. The files you might find in an old tool box should be of good quality and can usually be had for a buck or less.

    On another note, I’ve made a few file knives and I would suggest starting small. Farriers rasps are quite large to start off with.

    Last but not least, if you have your heart set on a farrier’s rasp, I have one I could part with.
     
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  4. Luzster

    Luzster Of course your opinion matters, just not to me... Supporter

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    More of a bushcraft--ish than pukko I'm thinking.
     
  5. Luzster

    Luzster Of course your opinion matters, just not to me... Supporter

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    Whatcha got and whatcha want for it? I'm wanting to make a knife that is a 4/4.5" blade and same sized handle. I have all the necessary tools to do this as well as handle material. And, I watched a few youtube videos so I'm basically an expert at these now.... ;):rolleyes:
     
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  6. NJStricker

    NJStricker Supporter Supporter

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    Why a file or rasp, other than the steel? They can be a lot of work to get them in proper condition to make a knife. Earlier files used W2 steel, and older Nicholson’s used 1095. Both are steels that can be had in bar stock, that way you don’t need to worry about occlusions that could cause the blade to fail at some point.
     
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  7. Bucklebuilder

    Bucklebuilder Supporter Supporter

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    Some rasp these days are case hardened. I like the idea of using a rasp and use them for making spurs. Unfortunately, they’re mostly unknown steel, so heat treating can be a bit spotty. Doesn’t hurt to experiment though.
     
  8. Luzster

    Luzster Of course your opinion matters, just not to me... Supporter

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    You do have a point. But, has the stock that can be bought at a store already been heat treated?
     
  9. Luzster

    Luzster Of course your opinion matters, just not to me... Supporter

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    I don't have a forge so if stock isn't heat treated then I have no means of doing that. That's main reason I as looking at a file. I know its been hardened so I would just have to temper it in my oven to take some of the hardness out so it doesn't break.
     
  10. Odinborn

    Odinborn Scout

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    I would look for an old 10" Nicholson file. I'll take a look around and see if there's any I can send your way, I have too many files.
     
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  11. Kurt992

    Kurt992 Guide Lifetime Supporter Bushclass II

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    Here is what I have. As you can see, they are much larger/longer then the 8-9 inch blade you are planning. I’d be more then happy to send you one of those with the white on the tang. Don’t let the rust scare you, a little soak in vinegar will take care of it.

    CCADBDB0-8156-4557-9980-5DF02A76BD7D.jpeg

    Here’s an old thread of mine where I used one of these to make a knife. It required heat!

    https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/farrier-rasp-knife-project-for-sgt-mac.133818/

    Here’s another one where I used a small file and didn’t need heat. Not a great knife, but fun to do.

    https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/file-knife-with-jute-wrapped-handle.123339/#post-2250788
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2018 at 10:46 PM
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  12. NJStricker

    NJStricker Supporter Supporter

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    Bar stock should come in an annealed state.

    I’m curious, what you have to grind hardened steel?

    A small forge is relatively simple to assemble and run using a Bernzomatic propane torch or even a propane weed burner from Harbor Freight.

    Google “coffee can forge.” I’ve even forged a few blades in mine, though I’ve mostly done stock removal and then use it to heat treat.
     
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  13. bladesmith3

    bladesmith3 Supporter Supporter Bushcraft Friend

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    I would give up on the idea that you will shape and grind a file into a knife without annealing the steel first and hardening and tempering after grinding.
    files are too brittle as is, and all the grinding will be very difficult with file hardened steel.
     
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  14. Luzster

    Luzster Of course your opinion matters, just not to me... Supporter

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    Sounds like a plan!! Think the first one/bottom one in your pic would work just fine.
     
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  15. Kurt992

    Kurt992 Guide Lifetime Supporter Bushclass II

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    PM your address and I will do my best to get it sent off this week.
     
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  16. Bucklebuilder

    Bucklebuilder Supporter Supporter

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    I have a couple of annealed rasp. I’ll send you a PM
     
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  17. nograveconcern

    nograveconcern Supporter Supporter Bushclass I

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    Yeah, typically you anneal the file first (Heat it up to 1500 or so and cool slow in vermiculite) so you can shape it in a soft state so you don't ruin your good files and tools. Then harden it (heat it to austenitic temp and quench). So if the file is 1095 you need to get it to 1475 degrees and quench in a fast oil like Parks 50 (Best price I found was $150 when I got mine).

    There are more forgiving steels to use. If you just want to dink around with knifemaking I would start with an old hickory, shape that out with a sander keeping it cool.

    Otherwise I can steer you in the direction of playing with some known knife steel.
     
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