Axe Talk - What are good Haft Neck Protectors?


Crco

Crco

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For both small hatchets and large axes, what do many of you recommend to protect your haft necks from overswings and mis-aimed strikes?

I have a quality Gransfors Bruk Wildlife Hatchet and a large camp axe and I'm looking for quality (and cost-effective, is possible) neck guards for both axes. I'm hoping to extend the life of the handles as much as possible. Even do-it-yourself projects are welcome.

Thanks for all your help!

Photos of said solutions are welcome too!
 
I corded the one I boogered..

100_2486.jpg


Creek :42:
 
You can make your own from a number of materials or, do what most people do who have a concern and purchase the hard rubber "Axe Handle Saver" from your local hardware store.

pACE3-956677dt.jpg
 
leather collar -- with a 1/4" thick piece of neoprene under the front of it, but not the sides. (don't need the extra thickness on the sides, but the cushion on the front is good)
 
I don't use them.

If I did, I think I would make a nice wet formed leather one.
 
I use the rubber one shown in the post above on a few of my mauls (for splitting cordwood). Otherwise I don't use them on axes.
 
I've used leather/rawhide or even superglue-soaked paracord wraps.

PMZ
 
I whip mine with tarred twist nylon line down for one hands width. That way it improves grip when working up close, protects the handle, and can still be removed to make use of the line if needed.
 
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions, guys.

I like the idea of paracord or bank line being used as a buffered collar and as spare utility cordage. Although I'd curious to hear if said paracord/bank line actually provides enough cushion to sufficiently protect on a mis-hit.
 
I bent a piece of sheet metal around the handle of my fiskars and wrapped hockey tape along it (an the grip). Probably doesn't fit the look of a traditional axe though.
 
Crco said:
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions, guys.

I like the idea of paracord or bank line being used as a buffered collar and as spare utility cordage. Although I'd curious to hear if said paracord/bank line actually provides enough cushion to sufficiently protect on a mis-hit.
Click to expand...

I throw the one in the pic I posted and I have no doubt the wrap has extended the life of the haft. But. if you miss bad enough ain't nothing going to save it. Get to know your axe and you won't break it.
 
I just got done posting my tool whipping assignment. I used my twisted cord project to whip the handle of my hatchet and it seems to provide quite a bit of padding when finished. I would recommend either taking a twisted cord and whipping it under the head or, maybe even doing a braided cord and using it for even more protection. Now that I saw this thread, I'm going to take a different color cord and twist it, then do exactly what I just recommended myself.
 
My everyday $20 beater that stays inside by the wood stove. Put a paracord turks head on it for practice. Future Wetterlings owner.

hatchet.jpg
 
TMILLER said:
Can you please expand on this? I assume hot water soak? How to you attatch it? laces?
Click to expand...

How to w. google-fu:
http://absarokawesterndesign.com/tutorials/?p=19

A good source for this application might be dog chewing bones, the kind made from rawhide with a knot in each end. Soak like so, flatten and cut. Make holes and sew/lace it on.

(I'm not really the guy to ask about making things look good, my axe is painted green to keep maintenace down. :p But I've seen a few stunningly good looking versions of this in different leathers and styles on here.)
 
Myself i have always used a nice scrap piece of leather after a good water bath to insure shrink around the handle just cut to fit and works greater
 
I bought a collar guard for a GB Wildlife from a maker not on this site. If I were to guess weight, it was probably 3-4oz leather max (relatively thin). On the first outing after I put it on, it got tore up pretty bad from batonning the Wildlife through ~3" inch rounds to split for kindling.

The fact that it got tore up makes me think I should in fact use a guard for haft protection, as I tend to baton my hatchets often. But I want something that I don't have to replace every few outings. Would thicker leather increase the robustness of the guard?

Another question: would whipped 1-1.5mm waxed cord protect against abrasion?

thanks
 
I used about 4 inches of cycle inner tube slid up the haft of my hatchet (left over from making ranger bands), which has given "scuff" and light hit protection. It did need a bit of baby powder to get it worked all the way up to the head, but now its there pretty firmly. I do intend to add a paracord wrap as well to add further buffering in case of a severe strike to the handle and to act as another way to carry a chunk of emergency cordage. But the rubber on its own makes for quite a bit of "general use" protection and adds amazingly to the grip you can get when choked up to the head for fine work.
OJ
 
For most of mine, I use "ranger bands"- sections of bicycle inner tube cut to length and worked on. Simple, cheap, and easily replaced.

For a quick and dirty method, several wraps of duct tape will serve. For elegant looks, cord wrapping and a coat of shellac.
 
I made one last year from raw hide. I cut out a trapazoid and folded over all 4 edges to give it a cleaner look. Wet formed it around the neck. Then a baseball stitch in the back to pull it all in tight. It's still holding up strong and it looks halfway decent too.
 
My favorite method is to wrap some sort of cordage. 550 cord, jute twine, or whatever cordage seems best or useful at the moment. The idea being not only will it protect the haft, but could be used as cordage if needed. So far I haven't had much issue with over swing, but have pulled off and used the cordage more than once.
 
Get some sheet and cut it like you would leather both sides matching.. Anneal it some to help you out.. Wrap it around starting from the bottom adding some heat with a propane torch to the top ears only.. Once you have it in a U shape trim the leftovers back to about 1 inch from the handle.. Now heat those two areas and start pinching it around the handle till you almost have 2 90 degree bends.. If you do it right it will close up tight then can be pinned or some decorative bolts can pull the rest together.. Hard to explain it well.. Prior to initial start you can use a ball pien on the inside for a little decorative effect.. Probably get a picture tomorrow if i remember..
 
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