Enzo Trapper/ How to put on handles?


Theeagleye92

Theeagleye92

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Hey guys, so I just got and enzo trapper blade and curly birch handles with red liners. This is my first knife build kit and am very new to this, just wondering if any of you guys have done this before i would love to hear how you did this and if you have any tips or ideas to suggest.

Any advice is appreciated.Thank you
1328590520.jpg
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The Enzo kit comes with the liners attached to the scales, rough shaped and the pilot and recess holes already drilled.

You will have to do all this yourself. There is an excellent tutorial from Redneck knives here: http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51046

I've done a couple, if this doesn't help send me a PM and I will be glad to offer some assistance.
 
So once the scales are on and glued up, and you the bolts are in place do you just grind down the tops of the bolts?
 
This is what I did on a couple of recent trapper builds. First I flattened the blank with sand paper on a granite plate and removed grind marks on bevel of the blade. Then took a small grinder and roughed up the tang for the scales for epoxy adhesion. Check alignment of pins or corbies in mock up assembly. If you are thinking of using mosiac pins remember blade is metric pin holes .1837 and not .1875. Lanyard hole should be able to use .250 tube. I used a slow set two part epoxy from golf smith used for club heads. This epoxy like a warm cure temp. To get around this since my work area isn't warm I put the assembly into my food dehydrator at around 90 degrees.
 
I bought the exact same kit about 2 years ago. Here's the finished product.

IMG_0215 by MrKnobbie, on Flickr
I can explain exactly what I did, and in some places did wrong. This may follow much of what is out there, on this forum and others. The instruction here, on you tube, and knife forums is what ultimately got me to be a member here.
1. you will need to cover that blade- 2-3 layers of masking tape.
1.5. You should make a true to scale drawing of the side and spine profiles.
2. you need to cut that scale block in half lengthwise. This is more difficult than it sound unless you have a band saw with a guide. A pair of calipers helps too.
3. you should plane the scales flat. you might need to make a jig to hold the blocks. I nailed a couple 1/4 " pieces of wood to my bench at exactly the length of the block. I think that it is important to make sure the scales are close in thickness; again, the calipers help.

EDIT: I just noticed that the block is cut for you so ignore steps 2 and 3.4. outline the blade handle on one of the blocks. This is the time to pick your grain pattern, and to decide which side is the inside or outside of the scale.
5. Drill the main (big) holes using the blade as a guide. I can't remember the hole size but when in doubt go a little small. size up the bit by measuring the small part of the corby rivet. Be sure to clamp the blade to the block first.
6. make sure that the first hole is where you want it before drilling the second. maybe a better explaination is that you can re-align the second hole placement now, before you drill, if the blade has moved from your layout lines.
7. after drilling the second hole, make sure it will all line up on the handle, and will screw together. I can't remember how I did this part, but I might have used some dowels or something, or maybe some bolt I had laying around. If the fit is not perfect, you might use a needle file to make it fit a bit better. If it is way off- order a new block and make buttons out of that block.
8. figure out a way to put the liners and both blocks together and clamp it up tight. Make sure the blocks are aligned the way you want it. OPPS! I forgot to mention to clamp it up with the blade matching the holes! Drill through all parts- CAREFULLY. this is where a drill press would be helpful. Take your time, go slow. Use a sharp bit!


I gotta get back to work for a bit. I'll post back later today with additional instructions- If you want them...
 
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Here is one that I did. It was a learning experience. I learned not to get the epoxy all over the thing because you can't clean it off! Fun project though and a great knife.
aIMG_0286.jpg
 
I remembered something after seeing Wizard's post: After I drilled my holes, I re-drew my profile layout lines. soo...
(?)9. put the handle block together using clamps. I then used a coping saw to cut out the profile, not the liners, and not using the blade for reference. I cut it so there would be about 1/4 additional around the edge. This made it so that the blade would not get dinged when cutting out the profile
10. I then measured the width of the corby rivets when screwed together. This is your minimum thickness. Any less and you will lose the benefit of the step in the head of the rivet. divide this number by 2. This is the min. amount of wood left after the counter sink for each side the handle. you need to also measure the diameter of the head. This is the size of bit to use for the counter sink.
11. Figure out a way to control the depth of the counter sink. I used bit stops, but they can slip on the bit sometimes. drill the counter sink, adding at least 1/16-1/8 to the min. thickness for each side. This should leave you a bit of wood that will hold the head, and keep it from pulling through the inside of the handle scale when you wrench down on the screws. You can also buy corby counter sink bits from Janz knife supply. That would take a lot of effort/risk out of it.
12. put it all together- liners, blade, handle- and make sure the screwes are going to work and everything lines up. you might have to sand a bit here or there to get thickness where you need it. you might have to push the screws together hard, and work to line up the screw threads. This can be frustrating. Better now than when the glue sets up.
13. drill a bunch of little holes in the liner material, rough up the wood inside the handles. This helps with epoxy adhesion.
14. Liberally apply epoxy to the wood, the liners (both sides) and the blade handle. I like the 2 hour stuff.put the whole thing together with the screws. Epoxy is going to get everywhere. You will use 2-4 times more epoxy than "needed". It's okay. The most important things are 1)that there is epoxy coating all surfaces to be bonded and or filled (blade holes), and 2) that the corby rivets screw in well. Screw it up tight. This is probably your only chance- but DON'T STRIP THE SCREW OUT. the time it takes to line it might make you wish you had a longer setting epoxy.
15. wait over night, maybe two.
16. use a carpet knife to trim the liner material off close to the handle.
17. Draw your side shape onthe edge of the handle scales. I again used a coping saw to rough out the shape. Some guys just free hand it, some guys just go to the belt sander. you decide- it's your knife.
18. I scraped off the back and belly of the handle with a cabnet scraper, just right up to metal.
19. I used a half round rasp and then a dremel tool (w/a sanding drum) to shape the handle. Wear eye, ear, and lung protection. redraw your handle shape as needed.
20. when it is the shape you want, sand with increasing fine sand paper.
21. finish with your choice of products. I like Tru-oil. I dipped it, submerging it for about 10 minutes at a time, then let it trip dry over night. I did that about 4 times, when it stopped absorbing, and sanding with 600 grit in between dips. Gun stock finish works too. 4-5 coats.
22. I didn't use a lanyard tube, so I don't know where that goes in the process. Probably in the glue up stage. You will grind down the rivets when shaping the handle.
The sheath that Brad sent with the kit didn't fit, so I suggest making your own.
Sorry for the length, repetition of what other better/ more experienced folks with better explanations said, or a "know it all" explanation. Have fun!!
Let me know it I can better explain something.
 
It's a great knife. Here is one I did last year.

Enzo002.jpg


My method was:

1. Sanded the scales flat.
2. Epoxied the liners to the scales using clamps and a vise.
3. Pick one side and epoxy the scale/liner to that side of the knife. Clamp and let cure really good.
4. Drill all holes in that one side.
5. Epoxy second scale/liner on, clamp and let cure.
6. Use the drill holes in the first scale as a guide to drill through the second side.
7. Counter bore the rivet holes (I use a 1/4 counter bore from Jantz)
8. Set the rivets. I glue them in too. Tighten them down. Not too tight or the scales can crack. I know this!
9. Then it's just a a matter of cutting ( I use a ban saw) away the excess and going through all the grits until you get what you desire. I usually do 80, 120, 220, 400 and 1000 and then a buffer wheel.

Tools I use - ban saw, table sander 4x36, buffer wheel, files and sand paper.

One tip - Don't use the 5 minute epoxy. It will give you more time to work before it sets.

Good luck!
 
A good sheath for the Trapper is to get the JRE sheath that Ben's Backwoods sells for the Mora Clipper and Companion. That sheath is excellent and fits the Enzo Trapper perfectly.
 
MrKnobbie said:
I remembered something after seeing Wizard's post: After I drilled my holes, I re-drew my profile layout lines. soo...
(?)9. put the handle block together using clamps. I then used a coping saw to cut out the profile, not the liners, and not using the blade for reference. I cut it so there would be about 1/4 additional around the edge. This made it so that the blade would not get dinged when cutting out the profile
10. I then measured the width of the corby rivets when screwed together. This is your minimum thickness. Any less and you will lose the benefit of the step in the head of the rivet. divide this number by 2. This is the min. amount of wood left after the counter sink for each side the handle. you need to also measure the diameter of the head. This is the size of bit to use for the counter sink.
11. Figure out a way to control the depth of the counter sink. I used bit stops, but they can slip on the bit sometimes. drill the counter sink, adding at least 1/16-1/8 to the min. thickness for each side. This should leave you a bit of wood that will hold the head, and keep it from pulling through the inside of the handle scale when you wrench down on the screws. You can also buy corby counter sink bits from Janz knife supply. That would take a lot of effort/risk out of it.
12. put it all together- liners, blade, handle- and make sure the screwes are going to work and everything lines up. you might have to sand a bit here or there to get thickness where you need it. you might have to push the screws together hard, and work to line up the screw threads. This can be frustrating. Better now than when the glue sets up.
13. drill a bunch of little holes in the liner material, rough up the wood inside the handles. This helps with epoxy adhesion.
14. Liberally apply epoxy to the wood, the liners (both sides) and the blade handle. I like the 2 hour stuff.put the whole thing together with the screws. Epoxy is going to get everywhere. You will use 2-4 times more epoxy than "needed". It's okay. The most important things are 1)that there is epoxy coating all surfaces to be bonded and or filled (blade holes), and 2) that the corby rivets screw in well. Screw it up tight. This is probably your only chance- but DON'T STRIP THE SCREW OUT. the time it takes to line it might make you wish you had a longer setting epoxy.
15. wait over night, maybe two.
16. use a carpet knife to trim the liner material off close to the handle.
17. Draw your side shape onthe edge of the handle scales. I again used a coping saw to rough out the shape. Some guys just free hand it, some guys just go to the belt sander. you decide- it's your knife.
18. I scraped off the back and belly of the handle with a cabnet scraper, just right up to metal.
19. I used a half round rasp and then a dremel tool (w/a sanding drum) to shape the handle. Wear eye, ear, and lung protection. redraw your handle shape as needed.
20. when it is the shape you want, sand with increasing fine sand paper.
21. finish with your choice of products. I like Tru-oil. I dipped it, submerging it for about 10 minutes at a time, then let it trip dry over night. I did that about 4 times, when it stopped absorbing, and sanding with 600 grit in between dips. Gun stock finish works too. 4-5 coats.
22. I didn't use a lanyard tube, so I don't know where that goes in the process. Probably in the glue up stage. You will grind down the rivets when shaping the handle.
The sheath that Brad sent with the kit didn't fit, so I suggest making your own.
Sorry for the length, repetition of what other better/ more experienced folks with better explanations said, or a "know it all" explanation. Have fun!!
Let me know it I can better explain something.
Click to expand...

Thanks alot, this was a great step by step. Appreciate the time you put in helping me
 
Another thought I had after reading mr knobby post . I made scales from desert iron wood and after making book matched scales and roughed them to same shape. I glued up one side only then using carpet tape lined up other scale orientated same as for installation on opposit side. Then I drilled through tang holes and both scales at same time for perfect alignment.
 
Love me my Enzo Trapper. Favorite knife right now.
This one I did from scratch, no liners and just brass pins and sheath too.
step 1 cut wood handles roughed out a little bigger.
step 2 epoxy one handle to blade. When dried drill wood, through holes in tang.
step 3 clamp second scale on and drill holes from wood down through the blade of first applied handle.
step 4 cut pins a little wider than the thickness of the handle fit together and epoxy and clamp the handle
step 5 shape handle using coarse grit on 1 x 30 belt sander
797891da[1].jpg
 
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Lots of good advice. But you really do need to do what a couple of guys said, epoxy the liners to the scales first, let dry, clamp both scales and the knife together and drill all the way through. It's quicker and insures that everything will line up. Also, didn't see this mentioned in any other post, make sure you have another scrap piece of wood or something to drill into under the scales. Very important. If you don't, you run the risk of splitting the wood around the hole on that bottom scale when you drill through it.
 
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