Full length carbon arrows for recurve bow?


WhiteH20

WhiteH20

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Do you cut your carbon arrows to your draw length or leave them full length when shooting from your recurve bow? I have heard both ways? What say you?
 
I cut mine to my draw length plus a little. I have never thought about leaving them full length although it would work I suppose.
 
Begin with a single test arrow. Shoot it without fletching and shorten from the nock end as necessary until perfect arrow flight is achieved. Then you will know what length to cut your shafts and then fletch. A hobby razor saw does a good good cutting carbon shafts and avoids the need to purchase an expensive power cut-off saw.
 
I get mine ready to use and they measure 32" and 3/4 inches from nock to point insert ,so depending on point/head used, i get a good 31.5" plus inches, which with a 45# @ 28" recurve, pulling 31'5 plus inches
im getting 60 to 62'ish pounds...
 
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Howdy, Y'all! I set up an account a while back, but I haven't found something I can shed any light on yet. Anyways, I shoot a 58 inch Bear Grizzly at 27", and I've always cut my arrows at 28" so I have about an inch hanging out in front of the riser. Hope that helps!!
 
I cannot remember what book this came from, might have been from "The Witchery of Archery" by Will and Maurice Thompson. But a Native American friend stated a bow was just a stick and string but a good arrow was a lot of work. It takes time and experimentation to get the right shaft for gyour arrows. The longer the shaft the weaker the spine of the arrow. When you add in weight of the point if further weakens the spine. You need to decide if you want to shoot a heavy arrow or not. Heavy arrows penetrate better but flight dies off faster. A moose arrow really should be heavier than one you will use on a deer as there are heavy bones and more tissue to get through. Conversely lighter arrows have a flatter trajectory but do not penetrate as well. The biggest factor is often what animal you are hunting. This is not to say you can't use one weight for all, it is just personal preference. I would start off getting good flight with bare shaft tuning and go from there. Check out Tradgang.com. You can spend many hours just reading all the information these guys put out. Great place to learn!

I shoot a 58# recurve at my draw length of 27" my arrows are 29" long, 3 fletched, and have 125 grain field points for practice and 125 gr. Magnus broadheads for hunting. The weight is around 475-500 gr. can't remember exactly, been a long day. I get great flight with these and have 2" of arrow sticking out.

My hunting buddy shoots a 85# recurve at a 26" draw length using Goldtip big game arrows full length, 250 gr. points with additional weights for about 625+\- gr. Wt.. This gets awesome penetration and he routinely kicks my butt on the 3D range

Start with recommended spine weight and adjust as you need.

Oh BTW, you can buy shaft testing kits from 3Rivers Archery.

Good shooting,

Steve
 
i found that 1" extra works for me, i got 1 full 32" arrow that i shoot mixed in the other arrows an it always drops 6" at 20yds compared to my 29" long ones
 
We just set my brother up with a 700 dollar handmade recurve for Christmas. It will mostly be used for recreational target, and some hunting, so we set him up with a set of 400 Bone Collectors with threaded points and left the arrows full length. He can screw in different weights of field points as he finds necessary, but with traditional archery I think momentum of a full-length shaft isn't going to hurt either way.

It's not necessarily that a longer shaft is 'weaker', it just undergoes more extreme flex, which means it has to be stronger to prevent breaking or undergoing so much flex on release that the arrow 'jumps' off the rest, throwing off the shot. That's my understanding of it anyway...
 
The spine of the arrow vs. the energy delivered by the string and limbs taking into account that there is enough room so that a broadhead does not touch the bow hand forefinger knuckle is what works for me. I finally went to an indoor range about 20 years ago that had a good selection of arrows. I shot non-fletched full length arrows at about 15 yards until I had good flight. I then had the arrow cut down a 1/2" at a time until I got near the riser. I then added a broadhead instead of the field point and had the arrow fletched. I shot about 30X with that, measured the shaft, bought 4 doz. and called it a day. I now order that same arrow when I run low and fletch them myself.

Regards,

ezra
 
I like mine full length. As long as it's spined right (at that length) it flies true. The extra weight is good for penetration - and less fooling around when building arrows.
 
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