Joker Knives?


Gracie

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When I first started tramping through the woods, there were only a handful of companies that made knives.
Now I am overwhelmed with the choices. Recently I've been looking at Joker Knives and wanted to get an
idea of their QC. All opinions are welcome, both positive and negative.

G
 
A place for Joker Knives - (Albacete, Spain) | Bushcraft USA Forums

Let's see your Spanish Steel
I was looking for an EDC fixed blade utility knife. Here is a thick (5 mm) 5 1/2" survival knife from Jeo-Tec in Spain with an ancient olivewood handle. Moly-Vanadium stainless steel which seems to be a popular Spanish steel. All of Jeo-Tec's knives seem to be of 5 mm stock. They list them...
bushcraftusa.com

Joker knives good or bad
I’ve been looking at joker knives from Spain they have a nice bushcraft knife made from Sandvik 14c28n steel with what looks to be a nice leather Sheath. The steel is the same as the mora garberg stainless. Which I am looking for a good stainless knife not a carbon steel. The elements are an...
bushcraftusa.com

Joker knives
Thanks to @Sooner99 for introducing me to Joker knives. @Blujakt was looking to buy a new bushcraft knife and decided to go with a Joker Lynx instead of a Bark River Bravo 1 after I told him to check out Joker. Below are some comparison photos of the Lynx and a Bravo 1 LT Hunter. The two knives...
bushcraftusa.com

Joker Knives from Spain
...Ive watched many reviews on knives made by this company and all I can say is "WOW!" on the quality and price combo...for the knives and sheathes...I will get pics of my new Nessmuk (under $100) up asap...and maybe some of the lynx knives I got my boys as well as another model for my daughter...
bushcraftusa.com

Joker Quality
New Joker Ember. What do you think? Send it back, or keep it? How did this get out of the factory? All and any comments very much appreciated. Thank you!
bushcraftusa.com


Joker Nomad 6.5 - Now with Pics! | Bushcraft USA Forums

Looking for a good bushcraft knife. | Page 2 | Bushcraft USA Forums
 
When I first started tramping through the woods, there were only a handful of companies that made knives.
Now I am overwhelmed with the choices. Recently I've been looking at Joker Knives and wanted to get an
idea of their QC. All opinions are welcome, both positive and negative.

G
My experience and seemingly most others are very positive. Some of the best quality per dollar spent you can find. I think it gets you about 90% of the way to the big name brands like Bark River/LT Wright/Battle Horse/etc with a price tag less than half. Here is a link to the primary Joker thread if you want to read or ask more questions.

 
When it comes to what I would consider a pure camp/bushcraft knife, I'll take any of the Joker knives I own over just about all my other knives. You get a lot of knife for the money, you would pay as much for the sheath alone at a lot of other companies. They are a thicker bladed knife, but it hasn't stopped me from doing anything and everything you'd need a camp knife for, and then some. I'd recommend the Ember, Nordico, or my personal favorite, the Lynx. I have the Campero as well, and that’s a good knife, but if I'm stepping away from their scandi's I prefer the Lynx. I also have the Arrui 9 which a great smaller blade with a flat grind on it.
 
I've had this Trampero for about a year. I can find no flaws in it. Steel is good, grind is good, QC is good, sheath is high quality and is wonderful when wet formed. Additionally, it has the most comfortable handle of any knife I have ever felt.

1000056264.jpg
 
I'm going to get one. But here's a question. Does anyone know if their wood handles are stabilized?
I'm moving to a wet environment and I'm curious because I've been told that wood scales can swell
or warp in wet environments.

G
 
I'm going to get one. But here's a question. Does anyone know if their wood handles are stabilized?
I'm moving to a wet environment and I'm curious because I've been told that wood scales can swell
or warp in wet environments.

G

I could be wrong but I don't think they are stabilized.

I've owned a Lynx and a Nomad before, nice knives.
 
IMG_5691.jpeg
This old Herters knife has been carried all over the PNW rain or shine for 55yrs. While it rides in my hunting pack now days the wood will swell and then shrink but I keep it oiled and I’m sure it will out last me.
Joker knives are great. I have the Camparo .
 
I've ordered three Joker Knives in Olive Wood!

By Friday I'll have:

Nessmuk
Camparo
Trampero
Koala Folder

So now I'm selling off the knives that taught me what *I want/need*!
Incredible deals, including a free knife with every order! lol

Gotta clear out the drawer....

G
 
I got the Trampero. Wow.

Beautiful Olive Wood handles.

The handles are sanded perfectly, but the handles are not finished. (I think)
So I've been doing some reading and the things that were mentioned the most were:

Linseed Oil
Mineral Oil
Wax.
Or a combination.

Any information you can give would help. I still can't get the search function to work well.

G
 
Good choice of knives! I haven't used my recently acquired Nessmuk yet, but can't wait to do so the next time we process our own meat. I have a different model folder. I thought it had a weird curve to it when I first got it in a lot with a couple others, but it has really grown on it and it is now one of my favorites. I think you will be happy with the trapper and field knives too!

I really like my Joker knives. I know they are not USA made, but they seem to be high quality knives for their price plus their sheaths are really nice too.

Jason
 
I don't care where the knives are from if they're of this quality.
For the record, I also bought a Buck 110 Drop Point. I would
definitely support Buck a little more, but I don't care for clip points.

I know the handles need something and I expected that.
However the information available contradicts.

The best I can tell, I think I'm going with very light coats of
BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil)

G
 
I don't care where the knives are from if they're of this quality.
For the record, I also bought a Buck 110 Drop Point. I would
definitely support Buck a little more, but I don't care for clip points.

I know the handles need something and I expected that.
However the information available contradicts.

The best I can tell, I think I'm going with very light coats of
BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil)

G
Just be careful if you plan on using any of them for food prep. Most BLO you get in stores today has heavy metals used in it as a stabilizer and is not good to ingest even in small amounts.
 
I got the Trampero. Wow.

Beautiful Olive Wood handles.

The handles are sanded perfectly, but the handles are not finished. (I think)
So I've been doing some reading and the things that were mentioned the most were:

Linseed Oil
Mineral Oil
Wax.
Or a combination.

Any information you can give would help. I still can't get the search function to work well.

G

Use a drying oil (Linseed oil or Tung oil) not mineral oil. @Dr_Rez is exactly right, "boiled" linseed oil has metallic salts added to speed drying.

Pure linseed (aka flaxseed) oil is non-toxic and pure tung oil is non-toxic when cured. Pure tung oil is a little more water resistant than linseed oil when cured and IMHO cures faster. Wax over the dried oil finish is good. You can add another coat of oil occasionally - it will mesh right in with the old coats.

If the handles have a finish now, the oil will probably not penetrate it.
 
When I first started tramping through the woods, there were only a handful of companies that made knives.
Now I am overwhelmed with the choices. Recently I've been looking at Joker Knives and wanted to get an
idea of their QC. All opinions are welcome, both positive and negative.

G
EXCELLENT knives!!!! I have the LYNX as well as the NOMAD. Very satisfied! fully recommended!!!
 
Use a drying oil (Linseed oil or Tung oil) not mineral oil. @Dr_Rez is exactly right, "boiled" linseed oil has metallic salts added to speed drying.

Pure linseed (aka flaxseed) oil is non-toxic and pure tung oil is non-toxic when cured. Pure tung oil is a little more water resistant than linseed oil when cured and IMHO cures faster. Wax over the dried oil finish is good. You can add another coat of oil occasionally - it will mesh right in with the old coats.

If the handles have a finish now, the oil will probably not penetrate it.

I'm a little unclear? Is your suggestion to use Pure Linseed Oil or BLO?
I've never heard of Tung Oil-- where would I get the pure stuff?
What kind of wax?

G
 

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