splie a modern rope


jean baptiste

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dieppe normandie
splice a modern rope

hi all
i use a translator so excuse me for the language

the principle is simple it is necessary to make a splice on a tubular braid, everyone already saw the life line of the orange buoys on the boats, the zodiacs ...... c' to make a splice there it is a tubular hollow rope is enough to pass by again inside with an end and the turn is to play. or that becomes complicated c' is when there is a sheath around this braid thus the principle: to make a splice on tubular rope has l' interior of the sheath ouchhhh for those which are familiar of the rope and other ropes the photographs speak d' they even

the result
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tools
knife, marker needles and rope

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to mark the size of l' eye has to realize on the door frame (the big length qu' it remains) and on the current the small length

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to leave l' heart of its sheath at the point to mark on the door frame (thus with dimensions big length) and to mark l' heart with the same site

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put some rope

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insert into the needle

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to return l' l' switches; switches by the second mark (that on the current) to arise with the first mark (that becomes complicated; #)

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thus level has are had has to pass by again l' heart in the sheath in opposite direction, in which tightened l' eye of l' splice to make coincide the mark made to the marker on l' heart did those on the sheath

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level it has is necessary to give again slackness with the sheath, to be done one leaves l' heart of the good sheath with dimensions sleeping on ue 30ene of centimetres. introduced l' end of l' heart in l' switches and have returns again in l' heart (that which court with dimensions sleeping) on good 30 cm

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once made one s' attacks with the sheath, it should be shortened one can a 6-7 cm length is sufficient. it is necessary to decrease the diameter to him to facilitate the passage!

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always with a needle digs have returns l' end of the sheath in the hearts of the ropes in direction of the door frame

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once made, one cuts the surpluses of ropes, nothing should exceed neither of the sheath nor of l' heart

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and it is necessary to take again the slackness of the sheath, c' has to say to remake to assemble the slackness of the sheath like a sock on l' heart. this operation is long, it is necessary there to go gently, mix the rope and to continue

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once l' splice finished have can make a surliure bent for more safety, but this n' is not to oblige knowing qu' a made eye of this way will have tendency has to be tightened on him even one can like U slip knot but in less measurement

imgp0356xg.jpg
 
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Very nice work. I hadn't thought about how to splice rope like that as I just use knots. Thanks!
 
that was impressive i did knot know how the splice a loop on that style of rope. very easy to understand pictures too thank you
 
now I got something to try this week, thanks for sharing the technique.
 
Très bien, merci! Splicing cordes modernes est une technique autant que la corde tordue, mais il semble que certains outils spéciaux sont nécessaires. Les aiguilles ne semblent simples à faire si ... et je pense que je les ai vus pour la vente quelque part.

Very good, thank you! Splicing modern ropes is as much technique as twisted rope, but it does seem that some special tools are needed. The needles do look simple to make though...and I think I've seen them for sale somewhere.

(Nope...Google translator.)
 
I've got to ask... Why splice in the second type of cordage? Why not use a locked brummel loop? If locked brummels are good enough for towing barges with the right line I'd have to figure they'd work fine for bushcrafting uses. They work well enough on whoopie slings.

That' being said, this is one incredibly nifty bit of splicing work there. I'm waiting on a spool of dynaglide to show up at my house later this week. I plan on doing quite a bit of splicing myself. I might have to try this method.
 
I've got to ask... Why splice in the second type of cordage? Why not use a locked brummel loop? If locked brummels are good enough for towing barges with the right line I'd have to figure they'd work fine for bushcrafting uses. They work well enough on whoopie slings.

That' being said, this is one incredibly nifty bit of splicing work there. I'm waiting on a spool of dynaglide to show up at my house later this week. I plan on doing quite a bit of splicing myself. I might have to try this method.

IIRC, it's because a woven rope spliced like this won't pull out...ever...and by not using a knot, you don't have weak points from bends in the line nor is there a knot to work loose. It's a permanent way to have a loop spliced into your line. Be it woven kernmantle or twisted three-strand, sometimes you just want an eye and not a tied bite (loop).

That 'second line" is the guts of the rope itself. It's layers of woven cord, like a chinese finger-cuff toy. When it is stretched, it pulls on itself making the splice tighter.

For mooring and tow-lines...man, I wouldn't want to try to splice one, tho it can be done.
 
Nice work. It's not difficult, but hard work to get the splices to come together. I used to do that on the docks one summer for gas money. The only splice I stayed away from was anchor line - too much liability if the splice failed.
 
I've got to ask... Why splice in the second type of cordage? Why not use a locked brummel loop? If locked brummels are good enough for towing barges with the right line I'd have to figure they'd work fine for bushcrafting uses. They work well enough on whoopie slings.

That' being said, this is one incredibly nifty bit of splicing work there. I'm waiting on a spool of dynaglide to show up at my house later this week. I plan on doing quite a bit of splicing myself. I might have to try this method.

Gryphonblade give the good answer, a knot it 30 to 50% of the restistance of the cordage less a splice is 15-20%
it's used for hard work

cloudraker
thank's yes when wee do this job wee must do in the good way and follow the instruction of the rope maker
 
Maybe I missed something but it appears that the outer weave of the cordage is not spliced in.

Without that, it would seem there would be far less strength to the spliced loop than with a knot. Did I miss something?
 
IIRC, it's because a woven rope spliced like this won't pull out...ever...and by not using a knot, you don't have weak points from bends in the line nor is there a knot to work loose. It's a permanent way to have a loop spliced into your line. Be it woven kernmantle or twisted three-strand, sometimes you just want an eye and not a tied bite (loop).

That 'second line" is the guts of the rope itself. It's layers of woven cord, like a chinese finger-cuff toy. When it is stretched, it pulls on itself making the splice tighter.

For mooring and tow-lines...man, I wouldn't want to try to splice one, tho it can be done.



Yes, splicing eyes in towing line can be done...and in a lot of ways is much easier than a smaller "handy line" insofar as keeping track of how the splice is progressing. When lines have splices put in, they are generally new and surprisingly supple and easy to deal with. After a line has been weathered, that ups the ante, so to speak, and makes it tougher to get the splice made.

As far as losing strength knots versus splices...that is correct, line loses much more of its strength in a knot as opposed to a splice. You are basically "re-laying" the line to form an eye, as opposed to bending, kinking or otherwise compromising the line's integrity using a knot.

I'm gonna stop so as not to hijack the thread. Hope this was useful. Any other questions...hit me up.

Standing by...Bart
 
Maybe I missed something but it appears that the outer weave of the cordage is not spliced in.

Without that, it would seem there would be far less strength to the spliced loop than with a knot. Did I miss something?

The outer weave (mantle) is mainly just an outer jacket for abrasion protection for the inner weaves. It is structural as well, but not nearly as much as the inner ones.
 
Nice to see others doing this.


I used to do this to 4 inch mooring lines while I was a Boatswain's Mate with the Coast Guard. It's a very handy skill to have. With this splice it is important to know how long the splice must be, and that is determined by the diameter of the rope. The link below will show you the The tools are called fid's if you want to buy them. They are made by Samson, and are not too expensive. A pusher helps too for the longer splices. Those he shows are called tubular fids. They also make wire fids.

Here is where you can get PDF Directions and videos of this technique.
 
IIRC, it's because a woven rope spliced like this won't pull out...ever...and by not using a knot, you don't have weak points from bends in the line nor is there a knot to work loose. It's a permanent way to have a loop spliced into your line. Be it woven kernmantle or twisted three-strand, sometimes you just want an eye and not a tied bite (loop).

That 'second line" is the guts of the rope itself. It's layers of woven cord, like a chinese finger-cuff toy. When it is stretched, it pulls on itself making the splice tighter.

For mooring and tow-lines...man, I wouldn't want to try to splice one, tho it can be done.

A locked brummel is not a knot at all. It's actually a splicing method. It's used on kermantle style ropes that have a hollow braid to create a fixed loop, no knots needed. It functions the same way using the constriction of the braid like a finger trap.

I didn't realize that the second bit of cordage was actually the guts of the rope. I was thinking it was a hollow braid and that other part was being added to it. My mistake.
 
Nothinghead can probably answer this question as he was a boatswains mate, What do you call the metal U thing that goes into a loop like this. My father was also a boatswains mate, and I'm sure he told me but I can't remember what it's called. I found a mess of them in his shed.
 
Nothinghead can probably answer this question as he was a boatswains mate, What do you call the metal U thing that goes into a loop like this. My father was also a boatswains mate, and I'm sure he told me but I can't remember what it's called. I found a mess of them in his shed.

A shackle is my guess.
http://nates4x4.com/catalog/images/shackleCM.jpg
shackleCM.jpg
 
Nothinghead can probably answer this question as he was a boatswains mate, What do you call the metal U thing that goes into a loop like this. My father was also a boatswains mate, and I'm sure he told me but I can't remember what it's called. I found a mess of them in his shed.

I believe what you're referring to is a thimble. It "lines" the inside of the eye to protect from abrasion. Something like this:

http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac309/CapnBart/anchor-eye8.jpg

Hope this helps.

Standing by...Bart
 
Bartman,

That's what I was talking about, thimble so simple can't believe I couldn't remember that. I've got a mess of them maybe if there's an interest I'll do a giveaway in the future and include a few.
 
Maybe I missed something but it appears that the outer weave of the cordage is not spliced in.

Without that, it would seem there would be far less strength to the spliced loop than with a knot. Did I miss something?




hi
yes the outer weave of the cordage is a little spliced, is insides for 6-7 cm long it's enough to be blocked . outer weave is just for protect the rope inside but of course a part of the resistance of the rope is the outer weave but a very very little part
you can see here the outer weave go inside
imgp0370.jpg
 

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