Truck gun rust


probie

probie

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Jul 14, 2010
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Location
Toledo Bend, Louisiana
How do people here prevent rust on your truck guns? Ive been thinking about duracoating my sks to prevent rust. After about 3 weeks there was already a dusting of rust on my rifle.
 
Rust Pruff is an oil w/ wax incorporated- wipes on with a chamois cloth, and lasts well.

Or, use pastewax on the metal. Both need to be renewed , but probably no more than monthly.
 
I just buy the 8 Oz refill, and apply it with a lint free rag. Then put the rag in a small ziplock, and keep it in my range bag. $20 for the refill. A couple of years, and still on the first bottle.

Paul
 
How well does it do on blued guns? Especially with the usual crappy commie blueing job? Unfortunately our temps here are going from the 30's in the morning to 70 or 80 in the afternoon, so theres alot of fluctuation.
 
I like tri-flow. It is a teflon lube/protectant for bicycle chains. About 4 dollars a bottle. Can get it at hardware stores, bike stores, Walmart etc. Spread it on the metal in a thin coat, let it set for a day or two then put the SKS back in your truck. It kept mine minty clean and rust free in pretty damp conditions.
 
I took my Marlin levergun apart before hunting season this year and coated all the external metal with johnson's paste wax. Hunted for weeks in the rain. Would come in each evening, wipe it off with a rag, open the action and lean it up against the wall near a low powered space heater. No rust.
 
probie said:
How do people here prevent rust on your truck guns? Ive been thinking about duracoating my sks to prevent rust. After about 3 weeks there was already a dusting of rust on my rifle.
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You’re in Louisiana you need to coat it with something better than the factory finish or keep it clean and oiled.

Also did you clean it after that last time you shot it? Did you shoot corrosive ammo in it?
 
woodrat said:
I took my Marlin levergun apart before hunting season this year and coated all the external metal with johnson's paste wax. Hunted for weeks in the rain. Would come in each evening, wipe it off with a rag, open the action and lean it up against the wall near a low powered space heater. No rust.
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I wonder how that compares to Renaissance wax, which I have heard is very good but have not used.
 
I use JPW, Johnson's Past Wax. I wipe down the out side of my guns real well with a good gun oil, like G96 or Balistol, and then apply a coat of JPW to them. I am sure that the inside of the bore is well coated as well on many of my guns also. I use JPW as a lube for my cast bullets. There are lots of uses for JPW, and for the $7 or so you will spend for a can of it, it is money well spent.

Best wishes,

Joe
 
One of the guys on here said he uses beeswax on his external metal parts, but I can't remember who said it. I have used it on a tomahawk , but not a gun. Has worked well so far on the 'hawk.

Looker
 
a sks is not an all weather rifle, and if you want to have a good ilaflon job done on it, it is still a sks, but ilaflon is one way to go

or save your money and buy a simple gun made out of stainless steel
 
The best long term solution would be to first parkerize it, dry it immediatly (no oil!) and quickly use some sort of bake on flat enamel finish on it.

I'm convinced on trying this on my MAK-90's I have.

I've not parkerized anything in years but still have most of the set up to do so.
 
Why not keep Rem Oil wipes in the glove box and every other week wipe her down? I use them on all my guns and mags...... rust free for a long time and counting.
 
Horned Toad said:
You’re in Louisiana you need to coat it with something better than the factory finish or keep it clean and oiled.

Also did you clean it after that last time you shot it? Did you shoot corrosive ammo in it?
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No I never shoot corrosive, just to be safe, and I am rather obsessive about clean guns, thats the reason i pulled it out in the first place.

BigEd, what kind of enamel would you recommend?

Looker, I will have to try beeswax, it hadn't occured to me.
 
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mix half beeswax and half petroleum yelly (mild heat!) and you will get the sticky wax to seal the gaps between wood and metal, a small wood-splinter helps to put it in place
 
Another "natural" solution is what mountain men used to use, which is tallow (a rendered fat product). After a cleaning they would rub it all over their black powder guns as a water barrier against rust. Don't know practical it would be in a modern application.
 
probie said:
BigEd, what kind of enamel would you recommend?
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i'll be honest I don't have any speicific recommendations. Main thing is surface prep being cleaned and degreased. And a cure time of 4-5 days before being put to use.

Any good quality high temp flat black engine paint would work well.
 
I know, no help at all but my truck gun was stainless steel to avoid the rust issue. ;)

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Probie I too live in Louisiana and I found the best stuff going. It is called Fluid Film and can be bought at any John Deere tractor dealership. It is the stuff that John Deere coats their equipment with when shipping it overseas and it not only protects it lubricates. We even put it on our fishing reels to protect them when fishing on the gulf.
 
High temp BBQ or engine block paint works great
Its also very easy to remove later on with solvent should the need ever arise, it's also low maintenance when it starts to get dinged around just a quick shake and spray, it looks just like a mil park as well,
 
tallow and lard should work good but i wonder if it would go rancid over time, can anyone chime in on these choices? seems like a good alternative when conventional measures are exausted.
 
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I have a 12 ga Fochi SS that lives in the tool box on the tuck I painted the whole thing with flat black Rustolium and wipe it down with a little motor oil every now & again. Seems to work good I never see any rust on it. Not pretty but functional for a truck gun.
 
SS on firearms isn't true SS, so it can still rust.

What I've found to be the best protection against rust is refinishing your entire firearm with a thermal cured finish such as KG Gunkote/Norrell's Moly Resin or Cerakote. It not only protects against rust and corrosion...it is also self lubricating as well.
 
Sorry to ask the obvious, but do you keep it in a case?
A gun case that's all fabric will protect the gun, while a case made of vinyl will somehow let moisture in, but not out, causing rust. The Doskocil type hard cases are the worst for rusting guns in long-term use.
That said, Renaissance Wax is the stuff museums use, so it ought to be good stuff. You'll want to take it completely apart from time to time to clean up the insides, too. If there's rust on the outside, there's probably some on the inside.
 
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